Opel GT Forum banner
1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
197 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just got back from my 24 hour drive to get my little ebay purchase. To tell you the truth, I was really surprise and a bit frustrated when I first saw the car. It was in rougher shape than I hoped for...I thought "great, another bad purchase". As I was driving home (I had 12 hours..one way), I thought that maybe it isn't that bad, alot of it is cosmetic, and probably won't cost that much to fix. So here it goes. Car definetly needs paint and some body work...paint is chipped, cracked, faded all over the car..has small dings, etc (I knew the car need paint before I purchased)..but the body is solid. As I looked at the body, it is straight, no rust under the doors or fenders..so this is a good thing. Car is missing all of its emblems (back OPEL GT I can buy at OGTS, front emblem I didn't see sold, side emblems I didn't see sold...in all the pcitures I've looked at, some cars have side emblems, some don't...what is the kicker??). Lights don't close flush (stays up about 1/2 inch)..I can get out and push on the lights to make flush, hopefully an easy adjustment. The front and rear "bumperettes"..the part with the rubber on them needs replaced..the rubber is pealing up away from the chrome and looks real bad. The molding around the front, rear windows is missing some and faded real bad. Interior..the section under the rear window is torn bad and needs replacement, need interior light lense, dash cover. As I pulled the car on the trailer, noticed the rear differential is leaking..not around the gasket, but probably where the drive shaft goes in..is there a seal here that is easily replaceable?? Needs exhaust...original muffler has hole. Car is still on the trailer, I'm about ready to go "play". I'm going to first change all fluids, so if you could answer the following, I can get to the store...

Does the rear end/tranny take the same fluid (80-90w??)
Oil filter..best place to get and a part number?
How may quarts of oil does it take?
Fuel..you guys use regular unleaded or the expensive stuff?
Shocks..looks like original..how are those Gabriel's at OGTS for 28 bucks??

Sorry for the long post..I'll be posting alot as I have questions. Want to make sure I do this stuff right. Thanks!!

Kevin
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,344 Posts
Kevin, first off make a list of what you really need then either check the OGTS on-line catalog of give them a call, they may have all of what you need either new or used. Oil filters are available, either Fram or Purolator I don't have the number but look in the filter books under "Buick Opel". 80-90 Gear oil works in both the tranny and rear-end, be sure to get a pump, it makes it easier. Normally 4 quarts of oil to change with the filter replacement. If you have the 9:1 compression engine you can go with 89+ octane, if you have the lower compression engine 7.6:1 use 87. If the engine pings or knocks go up one grade on the fuel or retard the timing a few degrees at a time. HTH.

Ron
 

·
Old Opeler
Joined
·
5,564 Posts
'69

The emblems on the side (front fender - quarter panel) are only on the earlier cars from about 1969. Later ones don't have them. OGTS does list the front "Blitz" emblem pn 12001 about $25 repro - a good one. They also have front and rear window rubbers and the crome strip - new
Get hold of their catalogue: www.opelgtsource.com
There are other suppliers listed in this forum too and stuff is always turning up on EBay. Plus the people on this site are extremely helpful.
 

·
Old Opeler
Joined
·
5,564 Posts
Your '70 has them and my '72 does not so it must have changed somewhere in between. Probably around the time the rear wheel bearing type changed.
Some one will know exactly......
 

·
Member
Joined
·
329 Posts
new opel

Oil filter is ac delco pf 53, someone also had posted you can use a fram ph16 although I have not tried it yet. Shocks I just installed were monroe front #32153 at 19 dollars each, rear are #5753 at 22 dollars each.The best way I found to install the front ones was to collapse new shock and run a piece of duct tape around it to hold it collapsed until you get the bottom bolt in. The first one I tried to install the bottom of shock went past bolt hole and was a major problem getting it up to the hole.Hope that helps.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
197 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
First day with the car

Hi,
Jut got in from one busy day with the new car...changed oil, rear pinion gear seal, drained gas. A couple quick questions, then off to bed.

Am I ignorant, or does this car not have zerk fittings for grease??

I drained about 9 gallons of gas out..my fuel gauge read empty, so I guess that doesn't work...any tips?

One of the rear bumpers are loose. How do you get to the bolts??

Thanks for all the help.
 

·
Non Civilian
Joined
·
2,100 Posts
the bumper bolts ar reached throught the back lights. the fuel level sender is under the spare tyre tray. clean the electrical connection, and all others related to your gauges. check fueses. and soory there are no zerk fittings on the car. also OGTS carries tons more than you find on the web or in the catalogue.
 

·
Old Opeler
Joined
·
5,564 Posts
Most Important!

Check out the wiring to the headlights and make sure the isulation has not dangerously deteriorated. The constant skiving as they open and shut cracks it, causes electrical shorts and FIRE!!!! Replace with teflon coated hi-temp erature wire if you can find it - sometimes used on appliance cords.

The wiring to my rear lights was also kaput - melted to the rear of the fuel tank! So check that too, when the rear lights are out to tighten the bumper bolts from inside.
 

·
Opel Junkie
Joined
·
113 Posts
kevin:

a couple of other things to look at while you're looking at the car.

1) someone mentioned earlier to look at the headlight wiring...do this IMMEDIATELY!! the wires you're looking for a a bit hard to get to, but you can see them in a bunch that goes from the left front section of the engine bay to the right front part of the car. the wires you want to check are thick, and are rubber coated. the rubber coating will break down and expose the bare wires and will short out. fires have resulted from this condition, so this needs to be looked at SOON!

2) check the vent lines for the gas tank. there are several lines that vent the tank and the filler neck, accessible by removing the spare tire tray. you will probably find, like i did, that the vent lines are brittle and broken, and this will cause a gas odor in the cockpit. mine was so bad, in fact, that i nearly passed out once. had to stop and get out for a fresh breath.

3) the 80-90 weight oil for the rear will be the same for the trans, provided the trans is a 4 speed. you didn't mention whether or not it was auto.

let us know when you need help.

mike
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
197 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I agree on the headlight rewiring. In fact I went to the parts store today to find the parts. In the instructions I have seen, they say to use teflon coated or marine wire. The auto parts store had just regular 12 gauge wire..it didn't say what kind it was. Is this the right stuff, or do I need to go somewhere special to by the wire.

Thanks
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
3,842 Posts
OEM parts has a couple of roles or 3 conductor teflon coated wire. It has an outer shield that is also teflon and will fit through the headlight mechanisms. Normally this stuff can be pretty pricey but it was selling for 20 or 30 cents a foot. They moved a couple of months ago and are no longer off of Fillmore, so look in the phone book. They are a great place to find a bunch of odd stuff. I think they moved to one of the big buildings around Pamer Park and Uintah. HTH Oh and check your PM.
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top