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Discussion Starter #1
WOW!

Did the brakes on Maggie the Opel (I gotta get a pic up one of these days) and they are freakin' AMAZING with the application of one difference from a normal brake re-do...

Green Stuff pads.

Got 'em from OGTS after asking for a low dust formulation. The organics in OEM pads carbonize during braking, leaving behind the dread black wheel. Since Maggie looks so darned perky with her trim rings clean and her whitewalls crisp, I figured it was time to get the low-dust pads and hang the cost.

I have low-dust pads on the Catera for the same reason. Low dust pads are typically formulated out of a semi-metallic ceramic compound which is lower in organics than an OEM pad. The downside is ceramic pads do not stop all that well cold - they feel 'hard' during the first few stops of the day and the better part of the entire winter.

Anyhow, the pads OGTS sent me are not at all like the ceramics on the Catera - they are formulated from a semi-metallic/Kevlar compound. They claim low dust (which is true) and better modulation than stock. THAT is an understatement - they stop.

Holy crap do they stop! A set of Brembo replacement rotors were added (repeated stops from Chuckspeed are real hard on rotors), and the Green Stuff pads were hung in the stock Teves calipers at the same time. A quick spin on the city/highway loop with the Peebmonster (wife nickname - long story) bedded them in, and it was time to test...

Darned near stood Maggie on her nose. Asconas have NO front overhang and a fair amount of rear overhang, so weight transfer is pretty good during heavy braking - the nose normally does not dip all that much. When it did on the Green Stuff pads, it freaked me out.

It was as if Maggie picked up 20% more braking power, and braking modulation was excellent. Maggie went fom having the stopping power of a 30 year old car to being able to do motorcycle stoppies - simply because pad formulation was changed.

Green stuff pads are more expensive than OEM replacements - $55/pair from OGTS. Tellyouwhut - considering Excursions have a hard time seeing GT's, the extra jing for a set of killer brake pads may be the difference between a near miss and a squished GT - well worth it in my book!
 

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PrOpeller
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707 Posts
I totally agree...Green Stuff pads rock! I also originally got 'em to keep down the dust (and squeaks). But will put them on all my cars now due to their increased stopping prowess.

Walter
 

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Pathologic Opeler
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how to change rear pads on a catera

i was trying to help my neighbor change the rear brake pads on his catera.

things that puzzled us.

1-caliper is on rigid line
2- caliper pushes from both sides
3- dusk cover...couldnt see disk

question: Is it easy to rplace the pads? we started to remove the outer caliper half and it started to leak fluid...so we put it back together
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The rear calipers are Teves units damned near identical to the fronts on an Opel GT - there are a pair of retainer pins you knock out with a drift, if I recall correctly. I sold my Catera about two years ago, so I'm going off memory...

opeldean said:
i was trying to help my neighbor change the rear brake pads on his catera.

things that puzzled us.

1-caliper is on rigid line
2- caliper pushes from both sides
3- dusk cover...couldnt see disk

question: Is it easy to rplace the pads? we started to remove the outer caliper half and it started to leak fluid...so we put it back together
 

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A rigid steel line on the rear brakes is no big deal, unless it is an IRS system. The flex or rubber line should be from the body of the car to the rear-end assembly, that's where the movement is. HTH.
 

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I just finished the brakes on my gt. hawk pads, brembo rotors, paragon ss braided brake lines, and I rebuilt the calipers. The driver side caliper is very slick never rubs, but the passenger side rubs a little, I havent had the wheels back on or driven it; would it be thought that the caliper will adjust automatically after it sees some braking? also Im going on memory but shouldnt the caliper be torqued down at 76 ft lbs?
 

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Old Opeler
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"Maggie"

Chuck,
Have you still got Maggie the Opel and have you let your daughters drive her yet?
 

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Jordan, after you apply the brakes they will self-adjust and you may find they will both wipe the rotor a bit, that's normal. I just looked at my Clymer's Opel book and the caliper to steering knuckle bolts are indicated to be 72 ft.lbs torque. Don't forget to use anti-sieze compound on the bolt threads. They may be a bear to remove later on with the heat buld-up possible in that area. :eek:
 

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Vendor
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2,428 Posts
jordan said:
I just finished the brakes on my gt. hawk pads, brembo rotors, paragon ss braided brake lines, and I rebuilt the calipers. The driver side caliper is very slick never rubs, but the passenger side rubs a little, I havent had the wheels back on or driven it; would it be thought that the caliper will adjust automatically after it sees some braking? also Im going on memory but shouldnt the caliper be torqued down at 76 ft lbs?
How did you like the Paragon lines? Glad to see someone else ordered from them.

Todd
 

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the lines seem great and really rugged, though I still don't like the bend that's in them at the front, I remember reading some where not to bend them more than 100º per foot. I bled the front brakes before I did the back line becuase I wanted to see if the calipers were going to work and after that the pedal still felt spongy, could that be caused by the brake MC?
 

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boomerang opeler
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jordan did you bleed all the brakes when you did the front ?if not you will have air in the rears
 

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why would there be air in the rear? at that point I never changed the rear flex line and the fluid never went down all the way.
 

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boomerang opeler
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if you've been in to the front lines its amazing where air gets to as you have the front flex hoses off you can get an air bubble go back to the master and sit in there, to save any problems i always bleed the whole system when ever i disturb a line
 

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As baz said whenever you disturb a line, you need to bleed the whole system. I believe the correct procedure is to start at the furthest point, (Right rear) and then left, then front in the same sequence. HTH, Jarrell
 

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Opel Addicts
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jordan said:
I just finished the brakes on my gt. hawk pads, brembo rotors, paragon ss braided brake lines,
Jordan - can you give us a list of the suppliers for these parts? I tried to do a search, but didn't find where these could be purchased.

Thanks!

Allen and Vickie Gage :D
 
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