Opel GT Forum banner
61 - 75 of 75 Posts

·
Opel Key Master
Joined
·
5,302 Posts
Things to watch on engine is the front and rear main are exposed, so you have to seal up the caps and the bolts. Motor mount holes go through to the case, and need sealer on the bolts or it could leak at the mounts. I have those new bushings NOS, just finding them is the issue.
 

·
Can Opeler
Joined
·
3,569 Posts
Discussion Starter · #63 ·
More progress!
I’ve degreased and cleaned and degreased and cleaned…


6 hrs of work later I have a nice clean engine block.
Found out I need a new rear main seal so I got that ordered along with some flywheel bolts.
The bolts were stripped and looked like they had been installed with vice grips (or maybe never taken out successfully. I got them out by welding Allen keys to them. I usually just weld a nut, but that wasn’t cutting it on those babies.

Clutch looked ok, I’ll probably reuse it. The transmission looks super easy to pull out if I’m wrong. I found an alignment tool on eBay and have that coming in too.

Everything else looks pretty good. Oil pan comes off tomorrow so I can inspect and replace the gasket.

Other than waiting for parts, I just need to clean and paint the oil pan, timing cover, starter, and motor mount brackets and I’m done. Oh and clean and paint the transmission.
I’m doing simple black and aluminum for all engine components. And gold for accents, but less than usual.









 

·
Can Opeler
Joined
·
3,569 Posts
Discussion Starter · #64 ·
Today is a double post day! I’ve been busy.
Suspension is on hold. I forgot to tell OGTS not to ship using FedEx. It takes FedEx a minimum of 1-2 weeks to get to me from OGTS. UPS is 2-3 days.

But the engine bay is looking better. I decided to leave the remaining good blue paint in the engine bay. I couldn’t get any paint that matches well enough for me to be happy. So I did 2 tone, black and original paint.

The black is on places that had rust repairs or large amounts of missing paint.
I will wet sand and buff to clean it all up nicely after it cures in a couple days. Then I will do a semi gloss clear coat over the entire engine bay to merge everything together a bit more.





 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,702 Posts
I like the little details on the engine Kyler,
allowing the numbers and opel label to stand out.
Great idea
Looking really good
 
  • Like
Reactions: soybean

·
Can Opeler
Joined
·
3,569 Posts
Discussion Starter · #67 ·
Still waiting on gaskets and suspension parts from OGTS that I ordered 12 days ago. I’ve gotten several shipments from random used part sources on eBay in that time.
No more Fed Ex from OGTS for me. UPS or priority from now on lol. Fed Ex California has some issues. My package still hasn’t left it’s first stop in Cali yet.

But I digress. I made a tiny bit of progress the last two days after work. I’ve spent several hours extracting 4 broken bolts in my exhaust manifold. I got two out with my welder and plug welding a nut over the broken studs. The last two sheared internally after plug welding.

I called every machine shop in town. I got back different variations of “no, we don’t do that” or “yes, but it will be several months before we can get to it”

One shop even told me “we aren’t set up to remove broken bolts.” Seriously? Do you not have an end mill?

Only one shop said they’d do, but they wanted $200. I laughed and walked out.

$30 for a fresh cobalt drill bit and an m8x1.25 and I was in business. I got lucky and drilled both of the bolts out perfectly centered and I was able to clean up the original theads.

I grabbed some exhaust flange gasket material from autozone and made a flange gasket too. Nobody sells flange gaskets for the 4-2-1 exhaust.


Photo of a perfectly drilled bolt leaving only the threads behind.


Testing to make sure the bolts all thread easily.



After painting with header paint. I painted the original exhaust too. It’s still pretty well intact. Just had a bit of surface rust.

I have some more zinc yellow chromate bolts coming in from McMaster Carr to replace all of the bolts on the car. I love my gold colored grade 10.9 bolts lol.

I found a complete clutch kit and over axle pipe from classicgarage.com. Way cheaper than anywhere else for 1.1L clutches. So I have those coming in too.

Also have a Braille Battery (17lb this time) and mount coming in this week.

I’m pretty sure I have everything I need. 2 more weekends seems possible for a first drive with everything 100% functioning!!!

We will see.
 

·
Can Opeler
Joined
·
3,569 Posts
Discussion Starter · #68 ·
What an evening. The oil pan on the 1963 1.0L engine is a pain in the butt. There is absolutely no clearance to get the pan installed on the front and rear bearing caps. I managed to convince it after a few hours of cussing.

The engine is fully re gasketed. I’m a little worried about the rear main seal. The 1.1L seal is about 1mm thicker than the 63 1.0L. So it sticks out about 1mm. The flywheel might rub on it. Fingers crossed it doesn’t.

Also got my Braille battery in. I mounted it to the firewall to keep it off of the bondo and such on my rust repaired area. I just don’t trust repair work to hold a battery right above my passengers feet. The steel on the firewall is much stronger. I’ll be using side post battery cables for extra clearance.




Tomorrow after work I’ll install the clutch kit, flywheel and bolt up the transmission and motor mounts.

Then it’s on to suspension on Saturday

And maybe, just maybe, installation of everything on Sunday. Unlikely, but possible.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Young Gt Lover

·
Can Opeler
Joined
·
3,569 Posts
Discussion Starter · #69 ·
Engine looks ready!
NOS clutch kit installed. The alignment tool was old and brittle so it broke almost immediately. I aligned it by hand. It worked fine. The input shaft went in fine after bolting it all up. I need to get my hands on an extra input shaft to use next time.

I had to tap ALL of the bell housing holes. They were nasty.

Not much else to say. I just hope everything sealed up nicely. Engine resealing stresses me out, because you never know if you sealed them well until it’s fully installed in the car.





 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,115 Posts
Engine looks ready!
NOS clutch kit installed. The alignment tool was old and brittle so it broke almost immediately. I aligned it by hand. It worked fine. The input shaft went in fine after bolting it all up. I need to get my hands on an extra input shaft to use next time.

I had to tap ALL of the bell housing holes. They were nasty.

Not much else to say. I just hope everything sealed up nicely. Engine resealing stresses me out, because you never know if you sealed them well until it’s fully installed in the car.





Looks really good! I m really digging your new 1.1L Kadett project!
 

·
Can Opeler
Joined
·
3,569 Posts
Discussion Starter · #71 ·
Looks really good! I m really digging your new 1.1L Kadett project!
Thank you! But it’s technically a 1.0L Kadett. Mine has a much more reasonable engine size of 993cc vs 1.1L. Much better for the environment and safety! :p
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,702 Posts
You sure made short work of that Kyler
onto the suspension
 

·
Can Opeler
Joined
·
3,569 Posts
Discussion Starter · #73 ·
Picture speaks for itself. I’m quitting early. 10.5 hours of this. I’m worn out. On to the steering rack and engine mounting tomorrow.


 
  • Like
Reactions: Vincent

·
Registered
Joined
·
568 Posts
I have two vehicles with Braille batteries. I have on in my GT (relocated to the spare tire shelf) and one in my 69 Z/28. I had an original Delco battery in my Z/28 that finally bit the dust. I hollowed it out and mounted a Braille battery inside. It is not detectable when installed. I was warned ahead of time that they do not keep a charge long and need constant attention. I have found just the opposite. They keep the charge much longer then any other of my batteries, including optima and duracell glass mat batteries. I am a believer.
 

·
Can Opeler
Joined
·
3,569 Posts
Discussion Starter · #75 ·
I have two vehicles with Braille batteries. I have on in my GT (relocated to the spare tire shelf) and one in my 69 Z/28. I had an original Delco battery in my Z/28 that finally bit the dust. I hollowed it out and mounted a Braille battery inside. It is not detectable when installed. I was warned ahead of time that they do not keep a charge long and need constant attention. I have found just the opposite. They keep the charge much longer then any other of my batteries, including optima and duracell glass mat batteries. I am a believer.
Yep I have the 11lb in my GT. It can go months without driving or charging with no issues. It’s a much better battery than anything I’ve used previously.

I was going to go with a 6lb for the Kadett but everyone is out of stock of all of the except 17lbs. The 17lb model is overkill for the Kadett, but it will have a pretty good reserve capacity!
 
61 - 75 of 75 Posts
Top