[Knorm65]

Why not swap in your old axles for a test first?

I only have c-clip axles.

 

[First opel 1981]

Ah, I just looked at my non-clip axles and I got aluminum shavings all over the bearings.
I would have sent them if you wanted them (still would, if you wanted them).
Would want to measure the length first.

 

[jayhawkjesse33]

Yep that’s my conclusion as well. The bearings felt just fine. I’m about 100% sure there’s some hidden rust inside one of the bearings though.

What a pain! It’s will cost $100 just for 1 bearing and retainer. Then I have to get the old ones off and set the nip and and.

Oh well I’ll be giving Gil a call soon lol.

So much for spending extra on this being a “rebuilt” rear end lol

Are you saying that you didn’t quite get what you paid for from OU?!

 

[opelspyder]

I am no bearing expert, but one, I’m not sure those sealed bearings would get rust in them unless it had water in it, which would be evident by the rest of the components. Second, I can’t tell you if a bearing is good or bad. So not replacing them is just a crap shoot. I always say, when in doubt, change it out. I get trying to save a few bucks, but now it costs. May or may not be the issue, but it could have been assumed checked off the list of potential noise problems.

 

[Knorm65]

Are you saying that you didn’t quite get what you paid for from OU?!

I got what I expected. It’s a good rear end that had a perfect ring and pinion. OU couldn’t have known those bearings were bad

Just venting a bit.

Thanks for the offer firstopel I should be ok as long as OGTS has them in stock.

 

[Knorm65]

I am no bearing expert, but one, I’m not sure those sealed bearings would get rust in them unless it had water in it, which would be evident by the rest of the components. Second, I can’t tell you if a bearing is good or bad. So not replacing them is just a crap shoot. I always say, when in doubt, change it out. I get trying to save a few bucks, but now it costs. May or may not be the issue, but it could have been assumed checked off the list of potential noise problems.

The axle bearings are not particularly well sealed. Sealed bearings are not ever perfectly sealed either. This axle could have been sitting dry for many years. There was no rust in the pumpkin but a bit in the axle tubes.

It would have cost me more if I would have replaced them at once. It’s only one bearing that is bad. I only have to find which one now.

The axle bearings are the only thing that could cause this sound after testing so not changing them had no effect on the diagnosis process.

 

[LynnB]

Always enjoy your write ups Kyler. When I get my new (relative term, as the warehouse I am converting was built in 1919) shop done, you will have to come up to Guthrie for a visit.

Love the welded spyder gears. If you ever change to drag racing, you can drop that one back in.

BTW, the burgundy MGB in in these two photos belongs to my older brother. Far as I know it is bone stock.

 

[Knorm65]

I would love to come see it.
Yep your older brother drives in H street with all the front wheel drive economy cars

You need to convince him to get some slicks and join me in Heritage Classic Race class.

All you need are slicks (to start)!

 

[Manta Rallier]

The axle bearings are the only thing that could cause this sound after testing so not changing them had no effect on the diagnosis process.

The only chance to detect a bad axle bearing when out is to rotate them an see if you can feel a slight 'bump' at one spot, or if they just feel a bit rough as they rotate. But I can't say that is a 100% reliable diagnosis. The thumping you are feeling is a pretty classic symptom; I've detected that at very low speeds on one car and at moderate speeds on another, and both times it was the bearing, and both times it was felt installed and rolling, not out of the car.

Since we are all kibitzing.... Howz about putting in some new axle fluid while you are at it? Then we can all tell you that the color shade on the pumpkin cover is not quite right... You know how this all goes. LOL

 

[opelspyder]

“The axle bearings are the only thing that could cause this sound after testing so not changing them had no effect on the diagnosis process.”

It did have an effect on the diagnosis process....if you had replaced them, you may not have had anything to diagnose!

 

[Knorm65]

“The axle bearings are the only thing that could cause this sound after testing so not changing them had no effect on the diagnosis process.”

It did have an effect on the diagnosis process....if you had replaced them, you may not have had anything to diagnose!

Ha! You got me there. Oh well shouldn’t be too bad.
When you replace them Keith do you bother to do all the measurements and ensure a .002 to .006” crush fit or do you just use the original shim and gasket and assume it’s fine.

I’ll measure anyway, I’m just curious because I doubt most people take the time to do this.

 

[opelspyder]

If you pull it out and it has shims on the bearing, then I tend to reuse them. I just watch more that the groove for the Oring is deep enough, some were not and can cause a cut ring

 

[Mercougary]

Since we are all kibitzing.... Howz about putting in some new axle fluid while you are at it? Then we can all tell you that the color shade on the pumpkin cover is not quite right... You know how this all goes. LOL

Looks like VW gold. Same color that's on my racecar. Don't listen to him Kyler.

 

[Knorm65]

Hah! I had to google kibitzing. Sounds like some kind of dog food to me.

All “meddlesome” advice is considered momentarily in this build thread lol.

I want to plate everything in zinc yellow chromate someday. But I’ll need a Vat, a lot of money, and excessive surface cleaning to pull that off.

Knowing me I’d spill all of the chromate into the yard and make my house a superfund site...

 

[LynnB]

For what it is worth, back in the 70s when I got all the Opel bearings from Germany, they were all EXACTLY the same size, so after a few, I just reused what ever shim had been there. The different tolerances were from machining operations, and not from the bearings.
Today, I would measure. I realize SOMETIMES you can find German made bearings, but it is getting more difficult. Whenever I run across NOS parts that fit my 1.1, I usually buy them, box them and label them. Keep all the Opel part separate from the others, so I don't get them mixed up with BMW, MB, Italian, Korean, Murcan, British or whatever..

 

[okieopel]

I want to plate everything in zinc yellow chromate someday. But I’ll need a Vat, a lot of money, and excessive surface cleaning to pull that off.

Knowing me I’d spill all of the chromate into the yard and make my house a superfund site...

What no Titanium nitride (TiN)?

 

[Knorm65]

The inside of the culprit rear axle bearing. The seals and the outside looked brand new. Looks can be deceiving. Felt smooth too. If you spin it up on the bench you can hear the wub wub sound though.

 

[terrylewisac]

just put some JB on the crack and repack em full and tight with fresh grease and reuse em they'll be fine LOL

 

[First opel 1981]

It's a good thing you bought a rebuilt rear end.

 

[terrylewisac]

Welcome to opel gt rear end rebuild part 1.
Today were going to show you how to rebuild the rear end of a 7? opel gt.
First thing you want to do is pull the pumkin as fast as you can, this will allow the fluid to spill everywhere but in your your catch bucket
2nd spray an entire can of brake fluid in to the differential to ensure all the gears are completely clean and shiny. Yep that'll do it
Next clean the mounting surfaces with 60 grit sandpaper and rinse with the second can of brake cleaner.
Lastly wipe down the old gasket with some mixed fuel with 2 cycle oil in it and reinstall the old gasket
And finally install new lube in to the differential, check for leaks, if a leak is present tighten down your bolts until leak stops
And there you have it folks one freshly rebuilt 7? opel gt rear end easy peasy.
Now get that opel out there and drive it like you stole it.
Sorry guys I couldn't resists