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Discussion Starter #1
I am in the process of bringing to market some new Opel items for performance and racing use.

Items currently in development:

-turbo exhaust manifold for CIH engines with T25 flange
-Opel GT headpipes for use with 2.4 CIH exhaust manifolds, in 2.25" and 2.5" diameters
-Opel GT headpipes for stock and 1.9 Sprint exhaust manifolds in 2" diameter
-steel deep sump oil pans for original 4-speed CIH transmissions
-Opel GT Delrin AF front suspension bushing kits
-Opel Manta Delrin AF front suspension bushing kits
-baffled CIH steel high capacity oil pans (core required)
-dry sump CIH oil pans (core required)
-fabricated rear suspension trailing arms with heim joints (GT and Manta)
-fabricated adjustable length panhard bars (GT and Manta)
-watts link kit for GT and Manta (core required)
-Manta aluminum torque tube mounts
-"limited prep" big valve 1.9 heads (core required)
-roots type supercharger kit for Manta

Other items that may be reintroduced are the Manta front suspension gusset kits, and the header flanges.

I also have the stainless steel Opel GT battery trays in stock.
 

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Nice! The 2" exhaust headpipe is something I've been looking for. Will it also mate up with headers you used to sell at C&R, or are they different?

When do you expect to have them available for 1.9?
 
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Bob's headpipes are a bolt on for the Opel cast iron exhaust manifolds. The ones for the 1.9 manifolds will fit either the original manifold or the 'sprint' manifold. He takes a factory headpipe and cleans up (ports) the part that mates to the manifold. Re-welds and grinds it for improved flow. He then cuts the factory headpipe where they converge into one pipe, replacing the original pipe with one of a larger diameter. The 2" pipe matches the original headpipe in configuration with a few exceptions, diameter and the pipe stays true to size (2") the entire length. Mass produced factory bent exhaust pipes tend to become wrinkled or slightly reduced in size from the bending process reducing flow. Some of the factory Opel headpipes also have one pipe overlapping the other where they join into one creating yet another restriction. If this is the case with the headpipe Bob is 'reworking', he removes the overlapping section and re-welds it.

The other headpipes he's mentioned (2.25" & 2.5") fit the larger FI exhaust manifolds. The headpipe flanges are larger accommodating even larger exhaust pipes for even greater flow.

HTH,

Harold

P.S. Get you one! They're purty! :yup:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I almost busted a gut with the "limited prep" cylinder head.
If you need to know the price of a full-tilt race head...there beyond...

Ok ok normal ordering channels I guess?
Dan, the only person I will do a full race head for anymore is me. That whole car accident/carpal tunnel/neck and back injury thing doesn't give me the luxury of doing any to sell. I'm just too slow-moving to be cost effective these days and it plain hurts too much to do that kind of work.

However I figured I can do a "limited prep" big valve head. You would still get all the goodies...5/16" stemmed custom made stainless valves, hardened exhaust seats, bronze guides, viton seals, hi-po 1.25" OD springs, titanium retainers, CNC cut valve job, new cam bearings, all appropriate deburring done, oil passage plugs tapped for pipe plugs, etc.

What you won't get is a full on porting job. Like I said I'm too slow to be profitable and it hurts me too much to do it. But I can blend the bowls and rework the guides to get a nice solid increase of airflow. I've gotten my prototype to flow almost as good on the intake side as a 2.2 head but with smaller ports and smaller valves. It will easily outflow a 2.2 on the exhaust side. That all translates into more torque down low and better throttle response compared to any of the bigger 'high port' heads. And it will flat out outperform a 2.0 or 2.4 head by a comfortable margin.
 
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Discussion Starter #6
I am ordering a 2.4 headpipe still. I will need pretty soon. Just consider it a purchase.
I now have all the materials to build yours and Gordon's. I need to build the jig now. I'm hoping I can have both done in the next two weeks.
 

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Dan, the only person I will do a full race head for anymore is me. That whole car accident/carpal tunnel/neck and back injury thing doesn't give me the luxury of doing any to sell. I'm just too slow-moving to be cost effective these days and it plain hurts too much to do that kind of work.

However I figured I can do a "limited prep" big valve head. You would still get all the goodies...5/16" stemmed custom made stainless valves, hardened exhaust seats, bronze guides, viton seals, hi-po 1.25" OD springs, titanium retainers, CNC cut valve job, new cam bearings, all appropriate deburring done, oil passage plugs tapped for pipe plugs, etc.

What you won't get is a full on porting job. Like I said I'm too slow to be profitable and it hurts me too much to do it. But I can blend the bowls and rework the guides to get a nice solid increase of airflow. I've gotten my prototype to flow almost as good on the intake side as a 2.2 head but with smaller ports and smaller valves. It will easily outflow a 2.2 on the exhaust side. That all translates into more torque down low and better throttle response compared to any of the bigger 'high port' heads. And it will flat out outperform a 2.0 or 2.4 head by a comfortable margin.
Bob;
Since most heads here (in the US) are 1.9, I'm assuming that you're doing this to 1.9 heads, do you prefer a certain year of head as opposed to others to be sent in as cores?
 

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To anyone who still has old rusty battery trays. I can attest to Bob's high quality stainless steel unit. My old tray was still ok, but I really didn't want to deal with it in 5 years in a completly reassemble car. So while access on the rotisserie made it super easy I swamped it for Bob's. Man does it look good! I only painted my welds (I used steel mig wire) because I can't bring myself to paint over such a beautiful peice!:cool:
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Bob;
Since most heads here (in the US) are 1.9, I'm assuming that you're doing this to 1.9 heads, do you prefer a certain year of head as opposed to others to be sent in as cores?
Yup...

-"limited prep" big valve 1.9 heads (core required)
Any year can be used.
But things to consider:

-if it's a "delta" head it will cost a ton more to machine to be able to install standard cam bearings
- if it's a 12 bolt head, we all KNOW they tend to crack. Would you want to spent a bunch on a head (even an uncracked one) and have it potentially fail a week, a month, or a year later? I can't guarantee it won't, nobody can.

Best would be any 1969-thru-early 1972 10-bolt non-"delta" head.
 

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Got one of the components delivered today for my deep sump 4-speed transmission pans. Should have both of the other items to finish a run of the pans later this week. By my calculations oil capacity should increase to 2 quarts. There will also be a magnetic drain plug as standard, and the option of a female 1/8" NPT fitting for use of an aftermarket temp sender.
 

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I'm surprised that there has been little interest in the Delrin bushings. They improve the handling on all Opels and handling is the most important part of any car.
Watts link...very nice!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
The finished 4-speed oil pans will look something like this, 1.5" deeper than standard.
 

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I'm surprised that there has been little interest in the Delrin bushings. They improve the handling on all Opels and handling is the most important part of any car.
Watts link...very nice!
Delrin seems a little non-compliant for a street car. But I'm on board for a few other items, including the watts linkage.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
are these 1.9 heads converted to 2.0 specs? how much to get my early 72 head done?
However I figured I can do a "limited prep" big valve head. You would still get all the goodies...5/16" stemmed custom made stainless valves, hardened exhaust seats, bronze guides, viton seals, hi-po 1.25" OD springs, titanium retainers, CNC cut valve job, new cam bearings, all appropriate deburring done, oil passage plugs tapped for pipe plugs, etc.
You can see from my spec list they are going to be built far beyond 2.0 specifications. Initially I will offer them with (5/16" stemmed) 1.75" intake valves and 1.45" exhaust valves (custom made for me).

Factory Opel 2.0 litre valves are 1.65" and 1.42" with thick (heavy) 9 mm stems.

Price is not firmly nailed down yet, but approximately $1400.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Delrin seems a little non-compliant for a street car.
Interestingly, the material I use (Delrin AF, or Delrin with Teflon added) is so much more slippery than polyurethane (and with zero "stiction") that it lets the suspension work in far better vertical compliance than rubber or polyurethane. They are the next best thing to having bearings at the pivot points.

While expensive, in performance use and especially racing use, they perform better and ironically last MUCH longer. Compared to polyurethane, I'd expect them to last at least 10 times longer in a competition environment. I have one race car out there with close to 150 races on a set. Poly generally lasts less than 10 races before they start grinding themselves into dust (with racing spring rates and under racing duress).

Now, if you are running into potholes and curbs I will freely admit the softer bushing materials absorb those hits much nicer....:)
 
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Got one of the components delivered today for my deep sump 4-speed transmission pans. Should have both of the other items to finish a run of the pans later this week. By my calculations oil capacity should increase to 2 quarts. There will also be a magnetic drain plug as standard, and the option of a female 1/8" NPT fitting for use of an aftermarket temp sender.

Bob, any idea on what you will be asking for one of these? I love the drain plug and temp sender idea. Wy the heck don't car manufactures put drain plugs in all transmission pans? :banghead:
 

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Other items that may be reintroduced are the Manta front suspension gusset kits, and the header flanges.
In all the going and coming with the Atlas Manta my gusset kit seems to have taken a powder.. If I sent you the control arms would you install them for me..?
 

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Drain Plug in Transmission Pan

Bob, any idea on what you will be asking for one of these? I love the drain plug and temp sender idea. Wy the heck don't car manufactures put drain plugs in all transmission pans? :banghead:
The same reason they don't put stud kits on the transmission pan rails to bolt the transmission pan up without monkeying up the gasket, MONEY:haha: Manufactures omit anything that is not required by regulations or demanded in order to sell their produce. They use the same logic when designing the car, more important to appeal to the buying eyes than to worry about how tough it is to work on:yup::banghead:
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Bob, any idea on what you will be asking for one of these? I love the drain plug and temp sender idea. Wy the heck don't car manufactures put drain plugs in all transmission pans? :banghead:
Okay, a quick rundown of the 4-speed oil pan features

*1.5" deeper than stock, increases capacity up to 2 quarts
*11 gauge steel mounting flange, 16 gauge steel pan
*fully TIG welded on a jig to avoid warping
*1/2"-20 magnetic drain plug at right rear corner (lowest point of pan when installed in car)
*1/8" NPT female temp sender fitting welded into back of pan if you wish to install an aftermarket temp gauge. Plug supplied if you don't plan to use a temp sender
*new stainless steel socket cap screws and washers supplied, along with a new Allen key to install them

Supplied fully welded, in raw steel for $105.00
Or supplied welded, metal-finished, and powdercoated textured black for $135.00
 

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Discussion Starter #20
In all the going and coming with the Atlas GT my gusset kit seems to have taken a powder.. If I sent you the control arms would you install them for me..?
So you're saying you don't have the gusset kit?

I can weld a kit in for you, but at the moment I don't have any for sale. It's a future plan to have more made. I just need to some of these other products out there first.
 
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