[RallyBob]

Slow day in the shop today. Spent a good amount of time figuring out my valve inventory, looking at what I needed to make complete sets.

I decided to help a friend out with a 2.2 racing head. Just the porting work, and none of the other prep. I had all my stuff spec’d out, and then a quick phone call confirmed that all my old standby valve/guide/seal part numbers were discontinued. WTF.

So, I’ll have to work up something new there at a later date.



I worked on the support pieces for my shelves instead, and again this was a painfully slow process. However, progress was made and tomorrow I’ll paint it up.

 

[RallyBob]

So, against my better judgement I’m prepping a 2.2 head for a race engine. However, the owner is a long time friend so I decided to take the project on. The head is a very clean low mileage 1985 2.2. Stock valves are 45 mm intake/ 40 mm exhaust, which equates to 1.77”/1.57”. Valve stems are 9 mm (.354”) like all CIH engines.

I’ll be installing 5/16” stem (.310” actual) valves, with 1.94”/1.60” diameters, roughly equivalent to 49.27 mm/ 40.64 mm.

2.2 heads have very good intake port flow in stock form (about 120 cfm @ 10” of water), but the exhaust is weak at only 77 cfm. This gives about a 64% intake/exhaust flow ratio. I usually strive for a 75-78% ratio.

To achieve a good intake/exhaust percentage I port the intake ports modestly, but concentrate on the exhaust flow. This doesn’t mean just hogging the exhaust port out, but rather using careful reshaping to keep the port volume small while gaining flow.

By doing this, a good 2.2 head will outflow a 2.4 head on the intake side, and will match the exhaust flow but with an appreciably smaller exhaust port. A smaller exhaust port = better throttle response, better torque, but equal HP to the 2.4 head.

 

[RallyBob]

Got those pesky shelving edge reinforcements painted up last night, and installed today.

Maybe later on today I will start putting parts on the shelves. I might also take a drive and pick up the steel angle for the counter frame.

 

[rrossjr]

I came for the Opel content. I stayed for the shop design and carpentry!
I truly admire the precision in everything you do.

 

[RallyBob]

Since I have my own pending 1.9 turbo cylinder head to finish, and a friend’s 2.2 race head to finish, I decided to build a new workshop tool to make my life a little bit easier.

This is something I’ve contemplated for the past couple of years, but I never really had a plan for it. I saw this photo on Facebook, and it was enough to plant a seed in my skull and help me to initiate a design to fit the Opel CIH heads.

Here is the Chevy version I saw the pic of:

If the design works out well for me, I will possibly build a second one. This way I’ll have one at my porting bench, and another outside my engine room for cylinder head assembly.

Here was my own sketch:

My design will attach via the camshaft access holes on the front and rear. I’ll be able to spin it 360° and lock it in any position. I’ll use a small steering wheel to spin it over. It’ll be mounted on rubber cushion seats, which will keep it from sliding around during the porting process.

Yesterday I made a parts list, and I ordered the clamp handles, some fasteners, and rubber cushions from McMaster-Carr. I also ordered an inexpensive 12” diameter steering wheel from Speedway Motors.

I had to rummage through my steel cutoff pile, but eventually I found a piece of 3/4” x 1-1/2” steel tube that was just big enough to make the bases from. I also found some 1-1/2” and 1-3/4” round tube for the pivots, and some small round tube with a 10 mm ID for hinges. A couple of round discs cut in half served as the flanges for the clamps.

Today I managed to cut most of the pieces of metal to size, then sand and deburr all the edges. The base got welded together, and the underside was drilled and tapped for the 4 rubber thread-in rubber cushions.

Tomorrow I should be able to cut and notch the vertical round tubes, and finish all the welding. I am expecting the steering wheel to come in on Monday. Once the design is proven, and the current head projects are completed, I will no doubt send out the base to be powdercoated and the pivots may get gold zinc when I send out my next batch.

 

[The Cub]

The older we get the more creative we become to get the same job done using much less effort and then say why didn’t I think of that years ago?

 

[RallyBob]

The older we get the more creative we become to get the same job done using much less effort and then say why didn’t I think of that years ago?

I seem to recall someone saying that the greatest inventions of convenience were not created by those with great ambition, but rather by lazy people who didn’t want to work as hard, lol.

 

[RallyBob]

I got the clamps welded up this morning. I still need to weld up the RH pivot tube to the cam cover, but upon inspection the end of the tube is not square, so it needs truing up first.

After that, the vertical posts need to be cut and notched, then welded in place.

 

[Gary]

Now you need to add a slide-out or removable shelf to the bench so that you are working at waist level instead of shoulder height. Your upper body will appreciate that!

 

[RallyBob]

Now you need to add a slide-out or removable shelf to the bench so that you are working at waist level instead of shoulder height. Your upper body will appreciate that!

In truth, using my welding bench for porting is only temporary. When I designed my workshop I always intended to build a porting bench with downdraft chip removal (connected to a shop vacuum). It will have tons of lighting, back and side-splash to minimize metal dust and chip dispersal, and a comfortable chair height to work with. It just hasn’t been a priority.

I’ve been going back and forth between my workshop and shoveling snow all morning. We got hit with about 8” of fresh white stuff last night and this morning. At this temperature it’s kinda heavy, so I’m taking my time.

So, more welding and fitting. Almost there…

 

[Gary]

In truth, using my welding bench for porting is only temporary. When I designed my workshop I always intended to build a porting bench with downdraft chip removal (connected to a shop vacuum). It will have tons of lighting, back and side-splash to minimize metal dust and chip dispersal, and a comfortable chair height to work with. It just hasn’t been a priority.

That pic in the first post brought back 20+ years of ergonomics seminars and training. I could picture the head sitting a foot or so above a standard-height workbench and your shoulders up around your ears while porting.

 

[RallyBob]

All welded up….

I am still waiting for the steering wheel to help make spinning a head over easier. I’ll pick up proper bolts for the pivot clamp hinges today, and I might order a 2-piece collar clamp to keep the head from shifting side-to-side within the pivots. Other than that, it performs as expected and should make my life little bit easier.

 

[RallyBob]

And if you are on Facebook, a quickie video here:

My new “CIH” cylinder head porting fixture in action. | By Legere Motorsports | Facebook

0 views, 0 likes, 0 loves, 0 comments, 0 shares, Facebook Watch Videos from Legere Motorsports: My new “CIH” cylinder head porting fixture in action.

fb.watch

 

[RallyBob]

Okay, my last component came in today. I went to bolt it up, and….no good! The website clearly lists it as having a 1-1/2” bolt pattern. I built my fixture with that same pattern.

When I got the steering wheel and tried to bolt it up, it clearly was incorrect. Turns out the pattern is in fact 1-3/4”. Ugh. Always something! Even with best intentions and careful calculations, sometimes things go wrong.

So, I found an aluminum slug from a hole saw I had laying around. A bit of drilling, some countersinking, and tapping of new threads, and an adapter was created that allowed me to use the steering wheel without further modifying my cylinder head stand.

 

[ken2]

Lemons to lemonade. You are quite the inspirational problem solver! "Just happened to have this laying around..." and it looks better than anything I have ever intentionally planned. Nice work.

 

[Frozen Tundra GT]

Lemons to lemonade. You are quite the inspirational the problem solver! "Just happened to have this laying around..." and it looks better than anything I have ever intentionally planned. Nice work.

Meh, I would have been more impressed if he had an encoder motor a plc controller, and he could control it by whispering sweet nothings to his Alexa

 

[RallyBob]

And then there were three…

I went looking for my valve spring compressor tool today. I had one I’ve used since the early 1990’s for Opel heads, and another specialty spring compressor I bought to repair the 16-valve head on my daily driver maybe 7-8 years ago.

I not only found those, but I found another OTC spring compressor that I forgot I had! I think I misplaced my old one I used on Opels and bought this because I was in a hurry to assemble a head.

I finally have all of them in one place at the same time, so they will be hung up on the wall with my engine parts storage. I don’t think I’ve ever had all of them in the same room at the same time, lol.

I purchased a few hooks from McMaster-Carr, and hung up all my new and used dipsticks to the left of my new shelving. The top ones are for aluminum pans, and decidedly rare. I only have a few of them, and only one has the rubber intact. They need restoration and new rubber installed.

The lower ones are for steel pans, and maybe 1/2 of them are NOS factory Opel. I have a few that are similar, but slightly different lengths, so they might be from front-sump oil pans. I really don’t recall.

Notably lacking are Kadett aluminum pan dipsticks. I think I still have one somewhere, but I have yet to find it. I might make replicas if and when I find it.

Today I also picked up some inexpensive ($6.99) carpeted floor mats to use on my laminated engine room counter. It serves to protect the counter from scratches, and to protect the finish (plated, polished, painted, or powder coated) of any parts I put up there.

 

[Young Gt Lover]

And then there were three…

I went looking for my valve spring compressor tool today. I had one I’ve used since the early 1990’s for Opel heads, and another specialty spring compressor I bought to repair the 16-valve head on my daily driver maybe 7-8 years ago.

I not only found those, but I found another OTC spring compressor that I forgot I had! I think I misplaced my old one I used on Opels and bought this because I was in a hurry to assemble a head.

I finally have all of them in one place at the same time, so they will be hung up on the wall with my engine parts storage. I don’t think I’ve ever had all of them in the same room at the same time, lol.

View attachment 454564



I purchased a few hooks from McMaster-Carr, and hung up all my new and used dipsticks to the left of my new shelving. The top ones are for aluminum pans, and decidedly rare. I only have a few of them, and only one has the rubber intact. They need restoration and new rubber installed.

The lower ones are for steel pans, and maybe 1/2 of them are NOS factory Opel. I have a few that are similar, but slightly different lengths, so they might be from front-sump oil pans. I really don’t recall.

Notably lacking are Kadett aluminum pan dipsticks. I think I still have one somewhere, but I have yet to find it. I might make replicas if and when I find it.
View attachment 454565



Today I also picked up some inexpensive ($6.99) carpeted floor mats to use on my laminated engine room counter. It serves to protect the counter from scratches, and to protect the finish (plated, polished, painted, or powder coated) of any parts I put up there.
View attachment 454566

Nice! Which valve spring compressor tool do you like the best?

 

[RallyBob]

Built a small shelf on the back wall of my fabrication area. The intent was to have a spot for all my battery chargers. You’d think that in 2023, batteries would be fairly universal, but you’d be wrong.

I will likely build a counter under this shelf, since this is right next to my shop press. It would be nice to have a spot for bearing press plates, etc.

I also drove out to the closest metal supply shoand picked up some 2” x 2” x 1/8” steel angle to build the countertop frame for my engine parts area. I figured that since I will be putting crankshafts and cylinder heads on the counter, the support under the counter should be strong.

Lastly, yesterday I got in some stainless 5/16” valves, bronze guides, and Viton seals for future cylinder head projects. Unfortunately, while they got the exhaust valves right, they shipped the incorrect intake valves. So I’m waiting for those to arrive.

The first head to get these valves is a 2.2 race head I’m building for a friend. It’s getting 1.94”/1.60” valves, my race-level porting, Crower double springs, and Crower titanium retainers.

 

[charlie1966]

What. No Opel Logo on the work top carpet. I am soooooo disappointed in your apparent lack of attention to detail.
and just in case anyone thinks I'm serious I will add 🤣
I enjoy watching your progress.