Opel GT Forum banner
1 - 20 of 28 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
A few months back someone mentioned getting "skins" from Lenk. I found their site, but it's all in German. Does anyone know if they have an English site, or a distributor in the States with a catalog in English??

Second question...when you say "skins" are we talking fiberglass, or what?

Thanks for the help guys.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
13,985 Posts
Opel GT Source is the US Lenk distributor. Whatever he doesn't have, you can probably get from Suselbeek (sp)? in Holland.

Bob
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
O.K., next question.

Has anyone used them, what was your experience with them and are there better options?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
98 Posts
OGTS usually just carries the fiberglass skins, but you could talk with Gil and he may purchase what you want and have it bulk shipped with his next order. Susselbeek has metal skins , from what i have heard from buyers of these skins in Europe they are high quality exact reproductions. But getting them here yourself or anyother way is expensive. You can get a English Part and price book from them for 15 dollars from their internet site. Another alternative is go to large junkyards or scrapyards (whatever they call themselves now) or you could call Todd at Opels Unlimited and ask him to cut off and send you the pieces you need just make sure to ask for the best! Good luck on that though I had no luck there I asked for a front end in the best shape he could find, The lady said he had one , ($400.00)I asked for a shipment cost total to wyoming and never heard back:confused: those are excellent prices considering what you'd pay otherwise. Another alternative is to build them yourself , to get the shapes right you'll need at least a few of these things: English wheel , wooden bucks, shaping hammers, torch, welder, time, wire, time, large space to work, time, sending yourself to a weekend workshop to learn metal shaping , time, sending yourself to a weekend work shop to learn the finesse of using the English wheel, time, did I mention you'll need lots of time and an endless amount of money to buy 18-22 guage sheet metal to play with and learn how to shape metal? Ok enough sarcasm I know so your best bet would be to call todd (I think that is his name) at OU and talk with him. There were a few straight cars out there idiots junked not knowing what they had or not caring. He must be good at finding them. I wonder if he doesn't help supply Susselbeek with some of their bodies too???

I just wanted to add that making the skins yourself allows one advantage over the others... Incorporating your own style to your car , mine will be somewhat different 6 in. wider overall . The front fender arches will be smoother and slower to roll instead of the sharp vette looking corners on top. thus giving it a more of a destinct look all it's own the rear fenders will be widened and i am wanting to work in something on the side something that flares up to the rear maybe vented for rear disc brakes. Ya know something that looks like it's going 212 MPH just sitting still. Something you've got so much time in your afraid to put it on the road for idiots to t-bone yeah sumpthin like dat!:D

RITTER
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for the suggestions RITTER! My problem is that I don't have the equiptment, time, space or knowledge to do my own metal shaping. I'm going to be hard pressed to get the knowledge to be able to weld in the replacements that I do get. I'll check out both the Lenk and Susslebeek options, as well as maybe getting metal off a junker. Hopefully one of the options will work out for me. Thanks again!

Jason
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
98 Posts
If your not an experienced welder and would like a helpful tip here goes... when welding body panels on start at the top or bottom but do the corresponding side next then the middle. check for alignment and fit. Also while welding it will be done in tacks, you'll never be able to keep a constant weld it will just burn through the metal. Also your tacks need to cool immediately I wasn't sure how to do this so RallyBob suggested using a wet sponge or rag.(thats the way he does it) Use safety, but soon as you've tacked put the damp cloth on the tack to cool it immediately(anotherwords don't weld in a pool of water). Also try to keep your tacks spaced out as far as you can so heat wont collect in one area and warp the metal. When resurfacing or grinding the area after your done take care to keep the area your cleaning up cool also as even a grinder can put off enough heat to warp body panels. when your done you should only need a minimal amount of body filler to get rid of small dimples, then coat with a rust inhibitor ( I reccomend POR 15 ) .When using a small MIG Welder to do this I recommend using gas and wire not the flux cored crap it just sucks in my opinion splatters everywhere, it just doesn't seem to like any setting no matter what. Well good luck and after I finally decide what to do with my '70 and get something accomplished I'll be sure to post pics. I plan on documenting it very well.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,802 Posts
Old welding tips

For body work, I have a couple of tips:

-Try brazing first. It is cheaper to get into, easier to work, deforms the metal less, and does just fine for non-structural components. The biggest side benefit is that after you get good at Oxy-Ace brazing then you will be good at almost any other type of welding.

-Find a couple of scrap pieces of 1/8" or so aluminum sheet metal. Clamp one behind the sheet metal you are trying to weld, using it to help support the joint if necessary. The aluminum will act as a heat sink to keep the tack welds cool, almost entirely prevent "burn through," and it won't stick to the weld to boot.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks for all the good welding tips guys. I agree about the flux cored crap...I've used it for a few small projects and it does spit.

I emailed OGTS yesterday and got a response back. They're telling me that Lenk does not manufacture sheetmetal skins. Oh, well. Next stop is OU to see what they can offer. I'm going to try and find that Susselbeek deal too.

Keep the great tips coming guys. I need all the help I can get:D

Jason
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I found Suselbeek!! I'm sure all you pro's knew about it, but I'm giddy as as school kid after finding it. I thought OGTS was great, but Suselbeek has them beat by a mile...only problem is, they are in HOLLAND!!:eek:

It's too bad too. Though I don't speak a word of Dutch or German or whatever language it's in, they have just about every part imaginable! Metal skins included!!

Maybe I can get OGTS to talk to them about importing some stuff. Anyway, sorry to prattle on about this. I just get kind of excited about all this opel stuff.

Here's a link to Suselbeek if anyone is interested:

http://www.opelgtparts.com

Cheers!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Yeah - they are pretty impressive. I heard about them just recently over on the classic Opel gruop I think. Anyway, I got their catalog a few weeks ago... very LARGE assortment of goodies in there. You could just about build a GT from scratch. ;)
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
13,985 Posts
You can all, fax, or e-mail them...they speak english. They bought the remains of Parsget a few years back. Parsget was where I used to get my parts from when I sold Opel parts thru C & R. I used to sell replacement sheet metal as well.

Bob
 

·
crazy opeler
Joined
·
558 Posts
I ordered their catalog when it first came out, it is set up similar to OGTS's in that you have to crossrefrence the partnumbers with the price sheet.
I was thrilled to see the sheet metal fenders that they listed in the catalog, but if you read closly between the price sheet and the catalog you see that it says something about the fender panels coming "used" from california.......well your just as well to get the "used" panels from OU. They must have found some old pictures of replacement panels.
I think they do however offer fiberglass replacement patches. And the rocker panels and floor boards that they offer are brand new, but the price of shipping inst really justified when you can easily fabricate both of those items from sheet metal.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
26 Posts
Steinmetz Flares

Speaking of skins (or replacement body panels), has anyone used the Steinmetz flares to perform the same function? What I am getting at is this, OGTS sells the set of 4 fiberglass flares for $320 while Susselbeck sells one fender for about 400 EUR (~ $400). I emailed Gil at OGTS and he says the flares widen the GT considerably, something I am not sure I want to do (some yes, considerably maybe not). However, the economic factor is quite appealing. I have posted some photos of my 73 GT in the albums area.

Second part, how difficult is it to add these flares and what do I have to do to install them (other than rivet in place and smooth in with putty). Thanks for the help.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
5,993 Posts
Body Damage

I would guess that you have a story to tell, after looking at your GT's pictures.

http://www.opelgt.com/photos/showgallery.php/ppuser/12668/cat/500/password/

How long ago did you buy it?
Who did you buy it from, and did they disclose the amount of body damage under all of the bondo (assuming that is part of the story)?
Did the sandblasting cause the body panel rippling that is apparent in the pictures?
What is with all of the holes? Are they the remnants of a body dent puller (used a hundred times!)?

Curious minds want to know!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I'd like to know as well! If that is what sandblasing will do, then I may reconsider...use some aircraft stripper instead. As messy as that would be, at least I wouldn't have to worry about that rippling.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
26 Posts
body damage

I purchased the GT from a guy in WV, took me 2.5 months to get the car because the original company, [not so] Reliable Auto Shipping went out of business and took my money with them (another story entirely). Photos of the car were, obviously, pretty nice and it had A/C and I could pay part now, part later (total price was $2,000 + $850 shipping). I got the car home and noticed a crack in the right side body panel; when I pressed on it, out came water. Being an inquiring mind, I took a screwdriver and started breaking out bondo. Now, I am not a body man but I assume 1" of bondo (NOT an exaggeration) is bad. Anyway, I decided to have the car sandblasted here on post and this is what we found. By the way, the driver's side is pretty good so I assume that the damage was done before hand and some sculptor just used several gallons of bondo because it was all over the car, not just on the passenger side. I emailed the guy I bought the car from and he expressed disbelief at the amount of damage, but there is nothing he can do. I'll post a picture of the driver's side later today so you can see what it looks like. I am now faced with three options:
1. Steinmetz flares from OGTS. Least expensive but will require WIDE tires / rims (more $ for wheels / tires than I intended and need HP [more $] because who wants an anemic car with flares and big tires?).
2. Replacement body panels -or- an entire front clip from Opels Unlimited. More expensive than flares but less expensive tires / wheels and can afford less HP.
3. Complete rolling chassis and start swapping parts. Most expensive (though Opels Unl quoted a price of around $700 for a complete chassis) and most work but I get a straight, rust-free car. Problem is I have no place to put another car and the installation frowns on its officers living in quarters fit for Jed Clampit.

Richard
Oh, the holes DO appear to be either:
1. Small caliber automatic weapons fire
2. Small guage shotgun pellets
3. The result of an overzealous dent puller
 

·
crazy opeler
Joined
·
558 Posts
I think that adding those flares might be more work that you might think. After attaching them you then need to make them blend into the body with either fiberglass or bondo.
That damage is incredible, that someone would take the time to fill all those dents in that door. You can obviously get a new door pretty cheep.
As for the other damage I personally wouldn’t replace the rear panel, because it is almost as much work if not more to "graft" in a new piece of steel(Look in my album I’ve done it before), than to use filler to fix it. Your going to have to use filler anyway to get it to look right after replacing the panels. Bondo isn't really as bad as you might think........if it is done right. You must seal up the inside of the panel so that water does not get to it.
Now that front fender is a different story, I would replace the whole thing, that one would take too much time and way too much filler to get to look right.
I have some complete fenders that I was thinking about selling, but shipping would be a pain.
But my suggestion would be to transplant the parts. Don't get a car from Todd unless you go and look at it, I bought some replacement panels from him and they had damaged that had been bondoed up. Look in the newspapers near you, or on traderonline.com there are always a few cheep gt's there. If you worked at it you could have all the parts stripped off of the current body that you have in a weekend. So if space is an issue then gut the car get rid of the shell then get your new one.

Chris
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
26 Posts
I have not posted pictures of the rest of the car, am at work now so will try to do that at lunch. kwilford asked if the previous owner had disclosed the amount of damage. Yes and no. I think he tried to give his best impression of the car and took lots of photos, and not just flattering ones. He showed the rust in the floorpan (about 1.5" hole under the driver's left foot), the dented rear pan (looks like a fight between a backing Opel GT and a stationary object). Other than that, he said the body was good with no rust. What he meant was no VISIBLE rust, bondo hides a lot (and sandblasting uncovers a lot). I appreciate the advice from opelgt73, I cannot weld but there is a guy at the on-post craft shop that does (I have seen his work on a '56 Chevy, VERY nice and a '70-something Chevelle, also very nice) so I know he can do the work. If you're willing to part with those fenders, I may be in the market for some (depending upon the results of my searches for a cheap rolling chassis, I'll see what is out there). I appreciate everyone's help and I'll keep you posted on what I do.

Richard
 
1 - 20 of 28 Posts
Top