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· Non Civilian
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check ebay, they go for around 65 bucks there
 

· Old Opeler
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Try checking your local Buick dealers (before GM closes them down!)

The original GM Part # 5232685 also marked "HL-70"

Come in packs of eight hydraulic lifters for Opel 1.9L motors.

You never know what they might still have.......
 

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GTJIM said:
Try checking your local Buick dealers (before GM closes them down!)

The original GM Part # 5232685 also marked "HL-70"

Come in packs of eight hydraulic lifters for Opel 1.9L motors.

You never know what they might still have.......
They're still available from GM here, as they're made in Michigan and shipped to Opel for all the hydraulic-cammed CIH engines.

Bob
 

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Speaking of lifters:

Quote:
Originally Posted by GTJIM
......
The FSM is adamant on this:
"Amply oil respective parts and install in reverse sequence to removal."
(My Note: Use a high pressure oil can to pump VERY CLEAN engine oil into the oil hole in the side of the lifter and SOAK the lifters in engine oil over night.)

Would the above apply to NOS lifters as well? I was going to save a set of lifters I got off Ebay last year for an engine rebuild, but since I have found I have a early high compression engine with solid lifters due to a trade, I thought about going ahead and using the NOS lifters on the "old engine". The next question would be should I use them on the "old engine" or save them and use them with a "new" cam in the future on the "old" engine with a rebuild. Just thought about throwing this out for some recomendations/suggestions. Thanks, Jarrell
 

· Old Opeler
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Never!

Jarrell,

First never put new lifters onto a used cam as they wear out at a horrendous rate due to the wear pattern that has been made on the cam lobes by the old lifters. If a lifter "dies" in a motor I have put a second hand lifter on one lobe after scuffing the contact area with 600 grit wet & dry sanding paper - but at best it is a temporary solution. The rule is new cam AND new lifters.
Also if used lifters are removed from a motor and the original cam is to be reused be very careful to record which lobe which lifter originally ran on and use it no where else!

As for your NOS lifters: Check them for smooth operation by grasping them between thumb and forefinger and compress them against the spring (for hyraulic lifters!). They should move freely in and out more than .060" - do this while then filling them with extremely clean engine oil. The cam contact face should be liberally covered with "Isky" (TM) Cam Lube or similar - though EP90 diff oil will do if you have nothing else.

HTH
 

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Thanks GTJim. That answer " First never put new lifters onto a used cam as they wear out at a horrendous rate due to the wear pattern that has been made on the cam lobes by the old lifters" was exactly what I was wondering about. Thanks again, Jarrell
 

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GTJIM said:
First never put new lifters onto a used cam as they wear out at a horrendous rate due to the wear pattern that has been made on the cam lobes by the old lifters.
Jim, are you sure about that? I know that the the lifter and cam lobe surface gets "mated" as they wear in together, but I thought that a new lifter would get similarly mated so long as the cam lobe isn't compromised (as in partially worn out).
Any other opinions on this?
 

· Old Opeler
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Yes!

kwilford said:
Jim, are you sure about that? I know that the the lifter and cam lobe surface gets "mated" as they wear in together, but I thought that a new lifter would get similarly mated so long as the cam lobe isn't compromised (as in partially worn out).
Any other opinions on this?
It's called "Irish Roulette" , Keith - all the cylinders loaded and hope for a mis-fire. :D

I spent from 1965 to 1980ish making and fixing mostly my own stuff-ups and the last 25 years fixing (mostly!) other peoples' messes!

One of my best: Two mechanics; one Chevy V8: each builds one bank of cylinders in the half dark at the pits in between races. This involves installing a new cam and lifters. The next race the car has started and reved OK in the pits but does not "cut the mustard" on the track. Next pit stop the valve clearances are checked and mechanic #1 sees that mechanic #2 is not using a feeler gauge but just turning the pushrods till they go tight and going down half a turn. "Er! That is not how to adjust solid lifters!" Reply: "Solids? I got hydraulics in this side........!" Major bummer! Haul the intake manifold off and pull the hydraulics and replace with solids - (cam and both sets of lifters were new BTW).

The motor runs the last two races OK but starts to go "soggy" the next day.
Cam and lifters pulled and the lobes which initially had the hydraulics on then replaced with solids are all worn - one almost no bump left at all. I made sure that they were heavily lubed with cam lube before they were fitted so can only deduce that either the solid cam did not like even a short run with hydro lifters and/or the lobes were "worn-in" enough by the first lifters to grossly affect the wear rate with the second set of new lifters.

Now that was on a low miles race motor - anyone want to "shoot craps" with a street motor that will do many more miles ......... ??

Rule No. 1 New Cam - new lifters

Rule No. 2 Old Cam - old lifters on exactly the same lobes

Now I ain't seen it all or tried everything but I am "old" and have had a teeny bit of experience which I do share. There is sure to be someone out there who has put new lifters on and old cam and had the motor run for a hundred thousand miles. :)
 

· boomerang opeler
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5,667 Posts
im with jim on this
when i need to do anything to a cam or lifters i do the full set , any other way is a false economy to me as they never last any sort of time
wat back in the day i used to use kent cams and every one used to say i was mad as they never lasted
but mine did as i was doing a full kit change and others were just changing cams
1 person got 180 mile out of a burton cam ,we found out later he had some scuffing on his cam followers so he buffed them out with wet/dry paper and used them
big mistake :D
 

· boomerang opeler
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