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Life Long Opeler
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was thinking about coating my fender wells in something like line-x or rhino liner. Has anyone tried this and if so, did it turn out ok as for great under fender protection?

Is there anything on the market that I could buy to apply myself with a gun or would I have to take it to a dealer to have them do it?
 

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Opeler
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Eastwood Company has bed coating kits and info.
Search: Bed Coatings www.EastwoodCo.com

Gator Guard II Truck Bed Liner Kit
Tough durable coating that seals and protects! Increase resale value, reduce maintenance and add a detailed look. Two part epoxy is easy to apply with a wide brush, roller or sprayed with Undercoating Gun (16030A). Cured finish is flexible at low temperatures, offers a non-skid chip resistant finish. Adheres to firmly adhering paint or bare metal. Degrease area to be coated and mask. One kit covers 32 square feet. $50.00

Sunday newspaper indicates that Bed Liner material kits are available at local auto parts stores in Southern Calif. Should be available in your location.

For now ... I have not applied any finish to my GT interior fenders.
Lindsay
 

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I had the bed of my 72 pickup sprayed with Line-X and I love it. The texture is nice and it has a consistant 3/8" thickness. This coating is sprayed on at a very high heat and drys in a few minutes. This is how they get the consistant thickness. I went with it instead of Rinoliner because Rinoliner goes on cold and the thickness can be anywhere from 1/4 to 1/2 depending on how they apply plus it is ALOT heaver. According to Line-X an 8ft bed added about 80lbs where as Rinoliner was over 150lbs. I am in the process of rustproofing my GT fenderwells and thought about Line-X. I would do it but I have the rear end out and it would be a pain to get it down there. I instead scraped off all the old undercoating cleaned everything off and applied Eastwood Rust Encapsulator to stop any exisiting rust and stop any new. I then bought "Heculiner" at my local autoparts store for about 29.95. It is a brush/roll on truck bed liner. It is a polyurethane coating that supposedly will not crack, chip or peel. All you have to do is rough up the surface with a scotchbrite pad, clean the surface with acetone, then put two coatings of this on. I havent put on the "heculiner" yet, just waiting for it to stop raining. I think this is the next best thing beside a spray in liner like Line-X. Hope this helps.
 

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Tom , Pepboys has the bed liner paint in stock .I just use standard undercoating. This is easier to repair if you have an accident :eek:
The bed liner stuff is a pain after it hardens :mad: HTH
 

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tomking
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I had my wheel well done in a spray on poly material, black. it wasnt rhino lining though. Mine is shiney. I had them tint it yellow and spray the engine compartment and interior and underneath. I figured it would help to reduce road noise. It tinted to match the 2004 corvette yellow the GT is painted with.
 

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opel snob
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I've done this in the past.. Wheel wells, and interior. I suggest only going with a "professional" application. That stuff they sell at the auto parts store is okay, but not great. The real key is the fact that it all "holds together" on the surface it's applied to. Spraying it is the only way to go. Example: I painted the fender flares on my old Samurai with the kit from Pep-Boys. Looked real nice, and held up for about a year. Had to strip it, because it was flaking, and had it shot w/Rhino-lining. 7 years later, the kid driving around in it in Az *still* has 'em, & they still look great. My last GT was done in the wheel-wells, I would highly suggest it. (don't spray the suspension components) If possible, do the underside as well... My current car is going to get sprayed inside, underneath, wheel-wells, and engine room. (it's gonna be a shell, so why not?) Then.... Off for paint! Probably add 50lbs to the car, but I'll tell ya- Damn solid-feeling car afterwards!
-LLG
 

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I'm getting ready to do the exact thing that Jordan suggested inside and out while the "Red" one is gutted. POR-15 order is on the way. Now my basic question is has someone come up with an idea, other than a rotisserie, to get to the underside of the car without having to paint upside down? So far all I've come up with is raising it up as high as it will go with jackstands under the rear axle, and using an A Frame and a chain hoist and chain attached to the front suspension and going up as high as possible. I'm cringing thinking of that as I don't feel like having the car pile drive me, should something let go. Jarrell
 

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Life Long Opeler
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Just make back-ups. When I go rock climbing, I have a main anchor and then one or two back-ups in case "Something lets go" It gives you a good excuse to buy more chains and tools too. :)
 

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Jarrell, when I did Willit?'s underside, I had the rear up in the air on jackstands with a cable attached from the front to a chain link fence post anchored in concrete. Didn't want it to roll off the stands. If you've seen the pics, you know my driveway is an incline. Oh yeah, and 4" X 4" chocks behind the front tires. Then, after it was all prepped with the POR-14 stuff, I laid on my back and shot the whole underside up to the tranny hole. Because of the incline, and other considerations, I only did 1/2 at a time, rear, then front. But the same precautions were used, cable to the fence post and chocks behind the tires, with multiple jackstands and a floorjack. Overkill for sure, but better safe than sorry and hurting.
 

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namba209 said:
Then, after it was all prepped with the POR-14 stuff, I laid on my back and shot the whole underside up to the tranny hole.
Ron, is that the previous generation rust-preventative paint? :rolleyes:
Sorry, couldn't resist!
 

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That's too cool Bob. Doggone fat fingers did me in. Trying to respond to Jarrell and then get back out to Willit? for some electrical work and I blew the proof reading I usually do. Haste makes waste, as proven by me responding to you on a mistook I made. But it's still funny, thanx, I needed a little diversion. :D
 

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Gene, all the bodywork has been done and I don't want to mess up the flares on the wheel wells, so I can't roll it on it's side. Ron, I remember your pictures. I had thought about what Thom had said as well, and was going to run a safety chain from the A Frame. So I'll proceed that way. On a bright note, I did get the interior prepped with "Metal Ready" and rinsed out today. With the heat we're supposed to have through the weekend, I should be ready to start painting by the weekend. :D Thanks all, Jarrell
 

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Vendor
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POR-15 works ok, but it's not the miracle everyone thinks. It WILL wear/flake off with time, especially when used on things like suspension parts. After a while (and not as far out as you might think) the underside of your car will need another application. If you go with the bed-liner stuff applied by a pro, it will be there for the life of the car. Both the Line-X and the Rhino-Liner stuff are unbelievably tough and will last WAY longer than any chassis paint you can find, be it POR-15, Magnet Paint Chassis Saver, the Eastwood stuff, etc.
 
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