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· 1971 GT
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639 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Below are some pics of the bracket I had made to hook up the Lokar cable to my SSD Solex.

It's about as direct as I can get it.

The concern I have with it is that the cable has two fairly tight radius turns in it. It takes a lot of force to pull the cable through. It's OK using the foot pedal, but by hand, it is difficult move the linkage at all and I'm concerned about the stress on the arm that pulls the cable down.

When the cable is extended straight it is OK so the bends are the problem.

Should I lubricate the cable in an effort to make it easier and if so, what with? Any of you custom builders have any tricks?
 

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· Super Moderator
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Corey;
Just a thought, but, it looks as though you have the cable running behind the head (obviously for nice clean looks) but, what about just running it straight over the top to the other side. A nice long gentle curve.
 

· Senior Contributor
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5,199 Posts
I would lube it with white grease if you an force it in, unless you can take the cable apart in which case it is a cinch. I think I see a problem with your setup though. First of all I like the way you have the pivot point down at the arm, I created one also when I built mine but I like yours better, it is easier to make than mine and looks cleaner...now for the problem. The accelerator linkage is attached to the body, your bracket is attached to the engine, which moves in relation to the body when the engine is running, which means when the engine torques you will be affecting the throttle position in the carb even though your foot might be perfectly still on the pedal :eek:.
 

· 1971 GT
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639 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Gene - The issue with going over the valve cover is that the cable approaches the carb from the outboard side. I have the same carb as pictured below. (from a member of this site) Going over the top creates an even tighter curve.

markandson - I think you might be right. Hadn't thought of that. Although I wonder if the same thing would happen if one end of the cable is fixed to the body and the other to the carb. Wouldn't the engine tilting with torque still pull on the cable?
 

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· Opeler
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1,768 Posts
My cable is mounted near the washer bottle area, loops over valve cover but it's a 38 so attaches at rear of carb and pulls inboard. Has worked fine other than recently when something changed subtly and now a hook on the hood (the ones that save your head in a crash) manages to grab the cable, so I have to reach in there and unhook it when I need the hood up. Call it a third (yes three) hood retainer.
Never noticed engine torque effecting throttle position, it might but to torque the engine your throttling anyway, so how would you know? (or care?)
 

· Super Moderator
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Gene - The issue with going over the valve cover is that the cable approaches the carb from the outboard side. I have the same carb as pictured below. (from a member of this site) Going over the top creates an even tighter curve.
Corey;
My bad, I have only seen one type of SSD set up and it was towards the base of the carb.
 

· Senior Contributor
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5,199 Posts
Gene - The issue with going over the valve cover is that the cable approaches the carb from the outboard side. I have the same carb as pictured below. (from a member of this site) Going over the top creates an even tighter curve.

markandson - I think you might be right. Hadn't thought of that. Although I wonder if the same thing would happen if one end of the cable is fixed to the body and the other to the carb. Wouldn't the engine tilting with torque still pull on the cable?
The problem is the short distance and the fact that you are not moving the whole cable but only the sheath when the engine torques. In the other case where the cable is attached to a bracket that is attached to the body when the engine torques the whole cable is moving together, so there is little or no relative movement between the inner cable and the outer sheath. If the engine vibrates enough and your carb response is good I would think you will have trouble getting a smooth idle adjustment due to constantly changing throttle plate position. Give it a try, you can always change it if you see a negative effect.
 

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The problem is the short distance and the fact that you are not moving the whole cable but only the sheath when the engine torques. In the other case where the cable is attached to a bracket that is attached to the body when the engine torques the whole cable is moving together, so there is little or no relative movement between the inner cable and the outer sheath. If the engine vibrates enough and your carb response is good I would think you will have trouble getting a smooth idle adjustment due to constantly changing throttle plate position. Give it a try, you can always change it if you see a negative effect.
The engine will never sit still at any RPM so this setup will always vary.
I would move the bracket to the top of the foot well box, make adjustments to the accell rod lever and leave everything else the same.
 
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