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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello All,

I am working on re-preparing my ITB manta for competition. I originally built this car in 1987 and campaigned it successfully for three years before kneeling to responsibilities. It was always a top ten car in the then large IT fields of the SF region. The chassis is really good.

Last year during a driving school at PIR I dropped a valve at full speed which obviously caused a bit of havoc and prompted a new shortblock and headwork with new valves. The motor that dropped a valve was a .40 over race motor that had very low race hours, but had been sitting for almost twelve years with just short runs to move the car.

Anyhow I have a new short block assembled with NOS Mahle .40 over pistons. I had the head gone through and replaced all the valves with NOS opel parts (ATE)...

To my specific questions. I am using the stamped steel oil pan because of it's slightly higher capacity and am in the process of adding a layer in the pan to act as a windage tray and to keep sloshing to a minimum. Basically I want to weld in a sheetmetal plate just above the oil level with a hole in it to allow the pickup tube to pass through. Return oil will be able to enter the lower part of the pan from the side gaps and the hole for the pickup tube. Has anyone done this and will it work the way I planned? Is it even needed? I do plan to run an accusump.

Ok, I want the accusump to pump back into the main oil gally on the right rear of the block. where should the feed to the accusump come from?

Also I am adding a bung for oil temp to the pan I plan on locating the bung on one side of the pan an inch below the oil level. How do you think this will work?

Any comments will be appreciated. I am an accomplished car builder, but have been working with Volvo's for the last 12 years (hooked on turbo's) and am trying to reaccquaint myself with Opel's my first love.

I am sure I will have plent more questions to ask, but this is where I am at right now.

Thanks
Peter Linssen
www.mvpvolvo.com
 

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IT Manta said:

To my specific questions. I am using the stamped steel oil pan because of it's slightly higher capacity and am in the process of adding a layer in the pan to act as a windage tray and to keep sloshing to a minimum. Basically I want to weld in a sheetmetal plate just above the oil level with a hole in it to allow the pickup tube to pass through. Return oil will be able to enter the lower part of the pan from the side gaps and the hole for the pickup tube. Has anyone done this and will it work the way I planned? Is it even needed? I do plan to run an accusump.


Same capacity oil pan as the alloy pans, just a different shape. But they're stronger in the sense they are not brittle and won't crack if impacted. A baffle is a good idea. I prefer to weld tabs at the perimeter of the pan, and bolt the top 'plate' in with welded studs and nylock nuts. It will allow for cleaning the pan should you ever ruin the engine and have to remove metallic oil particles. It also allows for better drainback.

Ok, I want the accusump to pump back into the main oil gally on the right rear of the block. where should the feed to the accusump come from?

Assuming you are running a cooler, you would tee off the cooler feed line. Don't return the oil to the rear of the block (mains). At this point, you've already passed the forward bearings....the oil doesn't want to run backwards through the oil galleys. Feed it to the front of the engine.

Also I am adding a bung for oil temp to the pan I plan on locating the bung on one side of the pan an inch below the oil level. How do you think this will work?
Place the oil sensor about 3/4' from the bottom, when the engine is running at high rpms, the oil level in the pan is very low...most of the oil is in the head, the galleys, wrapped around the crank, etc. Place the sensor on the driver's side of the pan....the passenger side will give a false reading from the exhaust heat.

Link to some Opel oil system info: http://www.opelgt.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1574
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Rallybob, that's the type of advice I was hoping for. Your insight is appreciated.

I went to the Canton Mecca website and looked at the installation instructions. It is more simple than I thought.

Thanks again
 

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You definately SHOULD run a remote oil cooler and must therefore run a remote oil filter. So, buy a remote oil filter adapter that has the fitting in it for the oil temp sensor.

Use the steel oil pan. That way you can cut it and weld in "kick-outs" to increase the capacity to 6 or 7 quarts. You should also weld in "trap doors" to hold the oil around the pick-up during hard cornering. See another thread on this site concerning windage trays.
 
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