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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
first i am having trouble trying to install the lower balljoint, does this need to be pressed in or what?

second my floord are realy bad! i am thinking of welding up a subframe made of 1x2 tubes to atatch the sheatmetal to. not to concerned on how it looks couse ground effects will be added in the future. plus the tubes will be better strength to mount the racing seats i got for the car. what do you all think?

third i need a diagram for the lights, they are frozzen in the up postion.

forth i need to find a gt automatic trany.

and the most important, i need keys. car didnt come with any. i am thinking of just wiring the igniation up like a stock car, toggel and a push button?

if any one has some info, specs and diagrams please pass them on or email them. the target day to have the car running is july 14th. that is the vintage races at road america in elkart lake WI. ang i reserved track time already.

thanx
 

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Willie, go to the Yahoo classic car section and the Opel list serv or the OANA listing. Under the tech files you will find everything you need to know on how to remove, repair, and re-install you headlights. Oh yeh, while you have the headlights apart, if you go that far, replace the wiring that goes through the rotating mechansim to the headlights if it is original. HTH.

Ron
 

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Hey namba, have a link for that site on Yahoo? I find 'opel list serv' and 'OANA' nowhere under the Yahoo classic cars link. I have to rebuild one of my headlight assemblies in the near future and that info would be nice to have on hand.

Thanks,
Claud
 

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floor repairs

Willie,
How much damage do you have in the floor and structure? If its just the floor and seat rails, that can be repaired easily. Often the inner rocker panels are also rusted out. I recently rebuilt the unibody on my 1970 GT. I replaced the inner rockers, floor on both sides, floor & support steel under the driver side rear control arm shackle, and the motor cross member support steel also on the driver side, and inner fenders all arouind. the project took 6 weeks of evenings and $285 of steel and other supplies. If you are interested in photos, how-to's, templates for rolling the steel, etc. get me your email address.
Doug
 

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Driver
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There are some key blanks on Ebay right now. I thought just tightening the lower ball joints in to proper torque specs seated them? It's been a while.
 

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ignition

you probably cant find a key for it unless you go to a lock smith. you can put in a new lock cyclinder.(the thing the key goes into). which in my words is a b*t*h.. well i have mine hooked up so that the key is in and turned and you press a button to make it start, to make sure no one can steal my beloved opel.. hope this helps any
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
thanks for the info. i will try yo check out the underside close to realy see what needs to be done.

i did talk to a locksmith and he wants the passenger door lock to make a key. and that should start the car????? so he said, he will see
 

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Pathologic Opeler
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driving w/o a key

I think you have to take the tumbler of the key out to disable the steering wheel lock...i havent done that..but i am push button since my switch failed..

i could not get my key mechanism to release thru the push button..so i cut a flap..yes it boogered up the housing..but i have been driving ..instad of sittting till i found a better solution...you need jj wheatley electrical diagram...
life gets easy with that.

fwiw here is my job of keyed but pushbutton:
 

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Pathologic Opeler
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key blanks

1-ogts has blanks cheaper than ebay.i think i paid $4..there are 2-3 different types..gas cap is one type...then there are two other versions..if i remeber my discussion with gil..he needs current key blank #

2-be sure when you get into the column you disengage the european parking lights....jj has this in his poster..probably want to disengage the key buzzer wire too...these can cause electrical problems and drain

3- a 33 year old car may have had the door locks changed by now..my gt took 3 separate keys, drivers door and ignition was same,passenger door was different,gas it completly different

ogts repairs the switch for $50..have to send in your old

memory says :"cut the red wire and insulate the ends"
 

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Pathologic Opeler
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ebay switch..AHOY!..

this might fit your needs.i was thinking about it myself.
vendor always on ebay

anchors away...

PS: I am a little silly today...if you have read my prior posts..I just scored a
73 axle with 59,000 on the clock...to top it off..my pilot friend is going
to pick it up on a work trip in Pueblo for free shipping .and no weight limit as he will be shuttling his bosses plane back empty...what an opel day..

thanks to all.i hope to pay back the guys on this site!

welcome aboard carter!
 

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