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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just purchased the upgraded poly bushings for my 71 GT..one thing I didn't think of, is the bolts. Since I'm getting the new inner sleeves, are the bolts different?
 

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Old Opeler
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Looooog Bolts

The bolts will be the same as they fit through the hole in the main spar which determines their diameter. The new sleeves you get with the poly bushes will (must!) have the same ID. The difference between "big" and "small" bushes is the OD of the inner bush - the larger OD means that the Poly bush is thinner and thus acts as a stiffer item. In other words the "big" poly bush has a larger ID.

Make sure the bolts are the correct grade if you try to replace them and smear a bit of "Rescue Steel" along them before installing them to protect them from rust inside the steel bushes. The Poly Bushes need to be liberally smeared with the teflon grease provided as the pivot on the inner bush and move in the OD steel bush too - rather than deflecting like the original rubber ones. The OD bush is the original outer for the rubber bush - this is where the "burning out" comes into play as the old rubber must be removed so the original outer can be re-used.
 

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Senior Contributor
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Note that the ID of the sleeves included with the OGTS poly bushings for the rear suspension is different. However, they do include new larger bolts with the kit and require that you drill out the mounts.

-Travis
 

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Opeler
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Holy smokes!

Removing those old bushings can be a stinker...literally. I've got a favorite method that doesn't 'tick' off the wife and is probably faster. I would first and foremost stress the issue of safety here, and proper eye protection ought to be first on everyone's list. Having said that...

This really works best if you have a drill press. Barring that, be very, very careful not to nick the inside of the sleeve while doing this. But, I've used a smallish diameter drill bit and quite carefully 'swiss-cheesed' the old rubber bushing sufficiently with an electric drill to then use a pair of needle-nose pliers and simply pull it out in a few easy to manage shreds. Be careful not to get into any metal by marking or taping a depth gauge on the drill bit first.

As I say, caution is necessary not to nick the inside of the sleeve. At the least anyhow, 'dressing' the inside of the sleeve down to a fine polish with your preferred flavor of grit probably isn't going to hurt when you are done.

Others may say not to do it this way, but it may make the process less of a chore and be quicker, too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks. I got the rubber burned out, and now see how the sleeves go over the "knuckle"...I noticed that I can't get the knuckle out of the LCA, is this normal? and the inner sleeve is seized on the knuckle. I have it soaking now, any tricks to get this off. I was thinking a chisel, but if I can't remove the knuckle from the control arm, I have to watch so I don't bend it.
 

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bozkm said:
Thanks. I got the rubber burned out, and now see how the sleeves go over the "knuckle"...I noticed that I can't get the knuckle out of the LCA, is this normal? and the inner sleeve is seized on the knuckle. I have it soaking now, any tricks to get this off. I was thinking a chisel, but if I can't remove the knuckle from the control arm, I have to watch so I don't bend it.
The "knuckle" can't be removed from the LCA unless you actually remove the old outer sleeves. Which you don't need to do, unless they are damaged. Which can happen; one of mine had worked loose from the LCA and actually rotated enough to wear out the outer part of the sleeve and the inner hole in the LCA. I had a NOS rubber bushing, which I "burned" the rubber out of (Uckk!) and used the outer sleeve. I also chose to braze all the outer sleeves in place in the LCA's, to prevent it from happening again.

As for removing the inner sleeve (which you must do if you are installing the newer style bushings and installing the thicker inner sleeves), I just used a small sharp chisel to "split" the inner sleeve from around the knuckle post. The post is quite hard, and didn't get marked up too badly as I chiseled off the sleeve. Once assembled, the inner sleeve fits tightly around the post, so a bit of marking won't affect it.

HTH
 

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I guess this question would fit in this area. I just got finished today replacing my lower control arm bushings with the poly ones, and I guess I was lucky. The old ones burned out and cleaned up well. Took a while cleaning it all up, and polishing up the old sleeves. Lubed them all up according to Opel Gt Sources directions with the supplied teflon grease. Put the lower control arms on, after putting new ball joints on them. All worked well, ( thanks to Keith and others on spring compressor). Now I am at the point in the FSM where you install the steering knuckles.
Under Installation Gt it says in Nos 1 " Always replace paper gasket when installing dust shield on steering knuckle" Question, how thick is the paper gasket, and is it really needed? I have some thin paper gasket material (about paper thin) Will this work if needed? Thanks, Jarrell
 

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We used an oxy/propane torch to burn them out. After they were burning we kept the oxygen on them so they burnt clean and hot. This produced very little smoke or smell.
 

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I just removed my leaf spring and intend to replace all the control arm bushings. The tops were easy and are back in the car. The LCA looks more complicated and I'm not sure how to get the old bushings out. Does the portion that connects by two bolts to the front suspension disconnect from the lower arm or do I just leave it attached and burn out the bushings? All is still connccted to the car via the lower ball joint. I think this is covered in one of the posts below but I'm not sure. I think ( according to Gil @ OGTS) if the inner sleeves remain attached it's ok...?? I don't have new sleeves to install.....just poly bushings.
Any help appreciated.
Mike
 

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Mike, burning out the old bushings is one way to do it. I used my Dremel, a flex drive attachment, and the spiral saw they have to remove the bushings. IHMO it's a little less messy than buring rubber and the smoke from that. An Exacto #9 blade in the handle took out a lot of the remaining rubber. The sleeves should be easily removed then for wire wheel cleaning if necessary and the whole LCA can be removed from the main beam. HTH.
 

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Nice Fit

Paint thinners will deteriorate the rubber in the LCA bushes if they are soaked in it but be careful of heat and naked flames while soaking - and don't breath the vapour (this is best done outside).

The outer sleeves are kept in the control arm for the poly bushes to actually rotate in - well lubricated with teflon grease. Alternately, a grease nipple can be drilled and threaded through the outer shell and into the poly bush so that the movement is restricted tothe inner sleeve. Most poly bushes have grooves moulded into the inner bore to retain Teflon lube - this method requires, new and smooth inner sleeves that are clamped, endwise, onto the pivot shaft so they do not rotate....

Make sure the original outer sleeves are nice and tight in the LCA and if possible retain them with some Silver Solder or Bronze brazing - so they will not come loose in the future. The inner surface of these bushes should be polished smooth if the poly bushes are to rotate in them.
 

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Paper gasket

Now I am at the point in the FSM where you install the steering knuckles.
Under Installation Gt it says in Nos 1 " Always replace paper gasket when installing dust shield on steering knuckle" Question, how thick is the paper gasket, and is it really needed? I have some thin paper gasket material (about paper thin) Will this work if needed? Thanks, Jarrell
Are folks skipping this step ?
Is a brown paper sack suitable paper ?
Thanks,Bob
 

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To date I have never replaced this gasket as most if not all of the grease 'should' be stopped by the hub bearing grease seal. However, it is not a bad idea. Used standard gasket meterial as only those specialty papers have the correct anti-wicking compounds to stop grease and water.
 

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GT Owner
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Paper gasket

To date I have never replaced this gasket as most if not all of the grease 'should' be stopped by the hub bearing grease seal. However, it is not a bad idea. Used standard gasket meterial as only those specialty papers have the correct anti-wicking compounds to stop grease and water.
Thanks, I will visit the auto parts store today.
 

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FWIW, I have used (lightly greased) manila envelope cardboard as this gasket material for 20+ years. Works fine.
 
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