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BTW, time to lower the fuse box and vacuum out all those rust chips. They have a funny way of shorting out your wiring when you drive over bumps, so you'll pop fuses left and right for no 'apparent' reason. Been there, done that!

Bob
 

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Opeling since 1991!
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Discussion Starter #4
Believe me, I plan on at least vacuuming it. But where would one move the box to? I have never heard of that before.
 

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Undo the nuts at the front of the fuse box, pull forward slightly to disengage the tabs at the rear of the box.....you can then swing the front downwards so the top is open and accessible from under the dash.
 

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Manta battery box replacement

Lots of conversations about the battery box on the Manta A being junk and needing a replacement. Well, I have a 73 Manta that does, in fact need a replacement box. Most of the threads on this subject are quite old and the guys that had solutions are probably as old as I am now but I need a replacement battery box. Who out there has one of Charles’ remedy boxes he built years ago or a newer one they want to sell.
Thanks.
 

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I got my last battery tray from Opels Unlimited. I believe it is the one made by DR. Manta in Germany that they import. Looks nice, certainly easier than making it from scratch.
 

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New here and was gifted a 75 Rallye from wife’s uncle. About this battery area and box above. I’ve never welded so is the idea that the box above can be welded in place after cutting out the old rust? I can just buy the box and take it to someone to weld? He parked it 7 years ago under a cover hope to pick it up next week
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You would indeed prefer to tack-weld it in, with a lot of short tack welds. Pulling the harness out of harm's way and then rerouting through the new grommet hole will take some patience; that harness runs all the way up to the headligths and running lights.

Yours needs work more back in the firewall, and looks like it will need an extra patch up higher than the Dr Manta tray.
 

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You would indeed prefer to tack-weld it in, with a lot of short tack welds. Pulling the harness out of harm's way and then rerouting through the new grommet hole will take some patience; that harness runs all the way up to the headligths and running lights.

Yours needs work more back in the firewall, and looks like it will need an extra patch up higher than the Dr Manta tray.
I have had good luck building the box back together with fiberglass. Grind the old box down to bare metal, treat it with naval jelly to kill the rust, duct tape the box area, cut and fit several layers of fiberglass cloth (2 or 3) and layer them in with marine epoxy and allow 24 hours to cure. Prime and paint after it sets up good. Not the best method but a very good shadetree fix and it will not rust.
 
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