[jpavlack]

engine removal easy?

I want to remove engine from '75 Ascona. It has auto trans. All the manuals I have say it is easier to remove the engine/trans all at once. Why is that? I would think it would be easier to remove the engine alone. If I remove the cylinder head, access to bolts would be a lot better. Am I missing something?

 

[BQS4]

motor removal

Joe;
Except for the GT/Kadett, I have always removed the motor/trans out the top. The GT/Kadett, it's better to take out the bottom.

 

[RallyBob]

Joe, pulling the engine and tranny together is usually much easier for a Manta or Ascona. In my parts-stripping days me and another employee used to have competitions to see how fast it took to yank an engine from an Opel. Got it down to 18 minutes.....without cutting anything. All bolts removed, nothing destroyed.

Ahhh, to be young again!

Bob

 

[jpavlack]

Would it be that much more trouble to just remove the engine and leave trans in place?

 

[RallyBob]

Would it be that much more trouble to just remove the engine and leave trans in place?

Actually it IS a bitch to line up the torque converter with the input of the tranny, or conversely if you leave the converter in the tranny but undo the flexplate-to-converter bolts they can be a PITA to remove as well. Removing the bellhousing bolts is a bit tight too. Probably will double your removal time. But yes, it can be done.

 

[BQS4]

motor/trans removal

Joe;
Bob is right on this one. It's bad enough with the 4 spd, getting the splines lined up, but, even worse with the auto trans. It's easier to do when the motor and trans are out of the car.

 

[jpavlack]

The experts have spoken. Thank you for saving me a headache.

 

[calvin]

Besides the experts advise take it from a duffer.. Take them out together. I spent 6 hours trying to line up an engine and a trany once..

Taking them out is easy, it is putting them back that is a chore.. now in week 2 of said operation.. One cracked oil pan later I have gotten better at doing it myself...

If you have to do it yourself when putting it back use a wheeled floor jack to help support the trany once you get it over the suspension and for gosh sakes watch out to keep the oilpan clear of things... otherwise you have to do it all again. Oh yeah, and chock the engine hoists wheels so it can't roll backwards while you are pushing the engine in when it swings. Pad the front of your car too so you don't mess up the snout. And make sure that the engine is straight and level when you have it in the chain. Try to have the same amount of links on both sides of the engine down to the valve cover. Also put a pad between the chain and the valve cover or you will be buffing scratches. For the chain I used the left trany support hole and a hook under the right pig ear thing that fits over the motor mount as most of the weight is in the back with the trany on.

Good luck
C

 

[Evlmanta]

To pull an engine?

I want to save the engine out of my second Manta before I get rid of the rest, How hard is it to pull a 1.9L out of a Manta (w/auto), and where should I bolts for the hoist???
Greg

 

[calvin]

It is not too hard, it is good if you have a second person with a long bar to help guide/pry/push/pull.... but you can do it yourself.

make sure you have a solid flat space for youe hoist, doing it in sand is not advisable I know from experience....

Lazy way
yank the radiator,
drop the drive shaft

pull the exhaust manifold or easiest if you are not saving the pipe cut it as far back towards the rear of the car as you can you will find that the first section of pipe is worth saving, don't worry it will follow along with the trany but you will need the bar to persaude it a bit


not quite sure what you do with the shifter on an auto I have only done manual tranies but disconect it so it drops free from the shifter boot with nothing holding it.

hook up your hoist bolts towards the back of the engine because you have the weight of the trany too. if you left the intake/eahaust manifoled wrap your chain around for the pass. side

Pull the motor mount nuts
drop the cross member

hoist away

do a search though I am sure someone has a real guide posted

 

[Paul]

I remove the intake and exhaust and wire them out of the way. I leave the manual tranny attached, just remove the drive shaft and unbolt at the tranny crossmember. On the front I remove the fan, shroud and radiator. I use a cherry picker that has a fairly tall reach. I have short chain that just happens to be the right size for an exhaust manifold bolt to go through. I attach the chain to the rear most exhaust manifold bolt and to the rear alternator to engine block bolt, its down low. The chain is long enough to reach the hook on the cherry picker at about 2 feet above the valve cover. From here, its just a matter of hoisting and rocking, the tranny has to drop down in back, and when it does, I tie a couple of wal-mart sacks around the tail shaft to catch the oil. The assembly will come up and out at an angle. all you have to do is pick up on the tranny to clear the front valence... with the hood removed of cource.

Check out my garage, you will see a picture of the hoist during installation.

Good Luck

 

[soybean (R.I.P.)]

Paul is correct. I have had an engine and tranny out of my Rallye in under an hour. The Gt is another story. Don't forget the Oil absorbent for the fluilds that come out. Hth, Jarrell

 

[RallyBob]

When you've pulled one (or ten) too many engines out of Mantas, you sometimes get competitive with your co-workers. Keeping in mind I was 18 years old at the time, my record to pull a Manta engine and 4-speed without cutting anything was 18 minutes. Air tools used of course!

After a while I stopped trying to do it quick and now I take my time. Maybe an hour to remove it.

>remove hood
>dump coolant via lower radiator hose, let drain
>remove center console
>remove shifter by undoing spring, remove e-clip and cross pin
>undo driveshaft from torque tube, leave inside tranny for now.
>unhook reverse light wires
>unthread speedo cable
>remove c-clip at firewall, unhook clutch cable
>coolant should be drained by now, undo fan shroud, remove radiator
>disconnect fuel line going into pump
>disconnect fuel line at carburetor, disconnect throttle cable
>undo intake/exhaust from head, tie back against inner fender
>undo heater hoses
>unhook oil sender wire
>undo coolant temp sensor wire
>unplug condensor wire from coil
>undo battery ground strap
>undo battery power cable from starter, and all other terminals from starter
>undo alternator power feed and regulator harness
>undo engine mount bolts
>support transmission with jack, undo mount
>lift engine out

That should be it, but it's late, I could have missed something.

 

[GTJIM (R.I.P.)]

Snap!

You got to the "undo the speedo cable" six minutes before me, Bob

Also disconnect the trans cooler lines from the auto trans that go forward tothe radiator.

 

[jpavlack]

finally getting round to it today. One problem-How do you disconnect the drive shaft from the torque tube? I have auto transmission

 

[opelnut10]

engine extraction

On an automatic car don't forget to disconnect the thansmission detent cable and the engine to frame rail ground cable, good luck.

 

[RallyBob]

finally getting round to it today. One problem-How do you disconnect the drive shaft from the torque tube? I have auto transmission

There are four 13 mm bolts holding the universal joint 'caps' to the torque tube yoke. Undo two of the bolts with a wrench, rotate the driveshaft 180 degrees, and remove the other two bolts. If the yoke is rusted to the driveshaft universals, a little prying with a flat-blade screwdriver or a pry bar will separate them.

 

[2 Fast 4 U]

And also use this piece of equipment: