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Discussion Starter #1
Our second GT that we have now name Cyclops has a ton of slop in the manual shifter. I took the boot off and could see the that the shifter linkage has a lot of movement on the pin before it actually started to move the transmission. I took the linkage off and found that the holes at both ends where the shifter pin and tranny pin go through appear to be wallowed out into ovals... (see pic below). Is this normal or is it supposed to be a round snug fit on the pins??
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I wouldn’t say they were ever ‘snug’ to begin with, but they did start off as round holes.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Up at the shifter I have the one spring that helps center it left to right. Should there be one for front to back?
 

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Up at the shifter I have the one spring that helps center it left to right. Should there be one for front to back?
There are two springs. The weird L-shaped one and the one for the reverse lockout.
 

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Since I couldn't find info here or in my Chilton's repair and tuneup guide on adjusting the linkage at the tranny for the shifter, I'd like to ask something on this thread.
As of late, it has been harder and harder shift into 1st and then 2nd and 3rd, etc. Now it's almost impossible to get it into 1st. But reverse works fine. Is there an adjustment I can make at the tranny to fine-tune the gearing? Or would this need a clutch replacement to correct?
 

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Since I couldn't find info here or in my Chilton's repair and tuneup guide on adjusting the linkage at the tranny for the shifter, I'd like to ask something on this thread.
As of late, it has been harder and harder shift into 1st and then 2nd and 3rd, etc. Now it's almost impossible to get it into 1st. But reverse works fine. Is there an adjustment I can make at the tranny to fine-tune the gearing? Or would this need a clutch replacement to correct?
There is NO adjustment that I've ever seen.
 

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so if there's no adjustment to make, why would reverse work and nothing else?
I know this is a pic of the Getrag, but there are two cables coming from the shifter.
Is there a picture somewhere (like the one below) of how the shifter is connected to the tranny?
On my fiero, there's an adjustment for 1-5 and another one for reverse.
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I think I have my answer. I push the clutch all the way in while I'm in 1st, start the car, and it wants to move. = Bad clutch (right?). Still odd that reverse works well.
 

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I think I have my answer. I push the clutch all the way in while I'm in 1st, start the car, and it wants to move. = Bad clutch (right?). Still odd that reverse works well.
Bad clutch adjustment.

A bad clutch doesn't go when you let it out.
 

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He meant no adjustment on the shifter.

There are 2 places to adjust the clutch:
  • Up where the clutch cable goes into the firewall; there is a clip than can be moved
  • Down on the back of the bellhousing on the passenger side, up high; there is a threaded stud protruding from the back with a lock nut.
There are proper ways to adjust at both places, but the 1st point mentioned is far, far easier. Rather than re-write it all up, there are some very good explanations in the manuals and if you search for 'clutch adjustment' here. You want to adjust the clutch cable so that you feel pressure back on the pedal when it is higher up; i.e., sooner as you start to push in the clutch pedal. Your problem is most likely the clutch is not disengaging completely; the clutch cable may have stretched. It is also possible that the other adjustment, the pivot stud on the bellhousing, has come loose and has moved.

BTW, what type of trannie fluid is in the trannie?
 

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He meant no adjustment on the shifter.

There are 2 places to adjust the clutch:
  • Up where the clutch cable goes into the firewall; there is a clip than can be moved
  • Down on the back of the bellhousing on the passenger side, up high; there is a threaded stud protruding from the back with a lock nut.
BTW, what type of trannie fluid is in the trannie?
Yes, I just found out about the E clip adjustment. I do have pressure on the pedal all the way down, so that part is okay.
I would have to get under the car for the other option. But I think, after talking to someone at the GT Source shop, that it may be the pilot bearing that has gone bad. In either case, Next Thursday 24th will be taking it in to my mechanic to replace the clutch, I have all the parts coming. Will also get the two front calipers replaced, and a tune-up. And this car should run and drive like new, like I remember it from my early 20s :cool:
As for the tranny, uh, oops, trannie fluid, I'm pretty sure it's something I won't forget to ask Dave when he drops the transmission to change out the clutch, bad or not.
Will let you know how it goes.
 

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OK, good deal. Sounds like you will get it 'shotgunned'. As for the trannie fluid, just don't use synthetic. Older brass synchros don't always work well with synthetic trannie fluid.

The mechanic should know about the proper adjustments to do it correctly. The bellhousing bolt gets adjusted 1st so that the throwout arm and throwout bearing contact the clutch fingers when the arm is so many inches behind the front of the bellhousing; you ought ot search here for that numbers of inches and give that to the mechanic. Then the e-clip gets adjusted so that the clutch engagement starts when the pedal is 3/4-1" down from the top of the travel.

The flywheel surface also should be inspected for glazing or burned spots, or excess scoring or grooving, and turned down to a fresh surface if it has issues. This would require the car to be in the shop longer while this gets done at a machine shop. The flywheel has a machined step on the clutch side rather than being flat like most flywheels. Not all machine shops are set up for that.
 

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Turns out all it needed was an adjustment with the e-clip so I'll keep the new clutch in reserve. What a relief.
I miss my GT :cry:
It's still in the shop over the weekend until Monday because the engine is running rough even after the tuneup. My mechanic, Dave will be adjusting the valves and hopefully that does the trick.
Front calipers are in, and hoping to get it back day after tomorrow. Finger crossed.
 

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Opel Rallier since 1977
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Just keep an eye/feel on this. Normal wear to the clutch disc in this design does not make the clutch behave in the way yours did....which was that the clutch was not fully releasing due to something 'loosening'. Problems in the clutch cable, or the throwout arm pivot being loose and moving, are the more likely causes of your change in clutch operation. It is possible that the clutch cable's core is stretching; sometimes they do that prior to finally breaking. Or possibly, the clutch cable's outer spiral steel casing (under the black jacket) is seprating somewhere. Not wanting to panic you in any way, but just make you aware.

BTW, on the valves, what year is your car/engine?
 

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Just keep an eye/feel on this... It is possible that the clutch cable's core is stretching; sometimes they do that prior to finally breaking. Or possibly, the clutch cable's outer spiral steel casing (under the black jacket) is seprating somewhere. Not wanting to panic you in any way, but just make you aware.

BTW, on the valves, what year is your car/engine?
Thanks! I think you're right about the clutch cable. The retaining spring was missing on the clutch arm under the car, the cable itself was real loose. So I will be getting with GT Source and order a cable assy.

It's a '71 1900
 

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OK, well just wanted you to know to be aware of the possibilities. IIRC, I've had one clutch cable break. (But I was using them pretty hard in racing at that time....) If you do put on a new cable, you'll very likely have to re-position the e-clip.

I'd certainly want to make sure the pivot bolt is locked down; there is a lock nut on it where it comes out the back of the bellhousing. If the lock nut came loose, it conceivably could have backed off all the way and fallen off! A mechanic's mirror-on-a-stick, and a flashlight, helps a lot of see stuff like that.
 
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