Opel GT Forum banner
1 - 14 of 14 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
213 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well I found this rubber piece in the glove compartment in one of my mantas, never knew what it was for or if it was even a car part atall.. untill i saw it apear for sale on ebay... its aparently a little rubber foot pump for the windscreen sprinkles in a... Kadett? The GT has an electic, foot operated one, right? And what do mantas have?? This has never worked on any of my cars, but i'd like to hook it up.. don't know how it goes, since theres only one inlet/outlet.. any help is greatly appretiated.. :)
 

Attachments

· Member
Joined
·
583 Posts
Washer pump.

That is a washer bellows from a Kadett or Manta. The US models had that type in the standard model Manta. The outlet connects to a T fitting on the hose that links to the washer resorviour. The pumping action forces air through the line and into the res. The result is that washer fluid is pushed out the other side of the T-fitting.

Most of the European models of the Manta had the electrci washer pump and did not use the bellows.
 

· Super Moderator
Joined
·
5,299 Posts
GT windshield washer pump

No, actually the foot switch only operates the wiper blades one time per push, while bellows underneath that pedal operate the washer pump the same as in Manta/ Ascona/Kadett, at least in the US. Euro Opels got an electric pump . . . not even available as an option here. :(
 

· Registered
Joined
·
213 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
come to think of it, this would make more sense... but would require the bottle to be sealed from air... maybe its like this... I would know if i had the original bottle. :rolleyes:

edit:
nobody said:
yes but remember that it has check valves in the line that can be purchased at most aquarium supply stores.
so its like on the first pic, but with a check valve? that would be the valve that only lets air through one side, right? Ok Thanks!
 

Attachments

· Registered
Joined
·
55 Posts
i can help for once .

ha finally something i can help with on this site being my kadett uses the pump . i can take pictures of the setup if you'd like i can ... just post back ... " would jsut go do it but i have to go get a camera from the other house hehehe ... but i can take pic's if you want lemme know.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
213 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
69OpelKadett said:
ha finally something i can help with on this site being my kadett uses the pump . i can take pictures of the setup if you'd like i can ... just post back ... " would jsut go do it but i have to go get a camera from the other house hehehe ... but i can take pic's if you want lemme know.
That would be of great help...and well.. interisting to see, but only if you feel like it, its not really important, i was more curious on how it works, so don't bother if you have better things to do. :)
 

· UngerDog
Joined
·
1,432 Posts
Does it work this way?

I've been spending a bit of time trying to figure out how the system actually works. And, I think I know why many of the cars that I've ever come across had a system failure. But, any correction would be appreciated and encouraged.

Some have stated that air being pushed by the rubber pump/bulb/bellows across the T on top of the reservoir causes the fluid to be sucked up into the washer line. This is shown in the first diagram posted by in #5...kind of like the action of siphon paint spray guns. IDK...I would think that you would need a lot more air to go across a T to draw up the liquid. I think it works a different way.

The pump does push, but it also sucks when released by your foot. My GT works this way...After filling up the reservoir/tank and hooking up the line to the foot pump, the rubber bellows inside the foot pump will actually fill up with fluid after several pumps of the foot. Then, when the foot pump is pushed, it starts to force fluid up the line to the nozzles in the hood. If washer fluid wasn't wanted in the bellows, there would be a check valve in the line between the reservoir and the foot pump. But, a one way valve in that line wouldn't allow the bellows/bulb to expand again.

Moving to the line between the reservoir and the nozzles...The check valves are placed near the nozzles so that there is always fluid near them (the nozzles) and to prevent backflow between the nozzles and the reservoir.

I've tried to use a 3 way aquarium T with equal sized ports. The system wouldn't work. The original Opel T has a smaller port that goes into the reservoir. The smaller port must help to direct the fluid to the line of the nozzles. This is how the system works...Stepping on the foot pump, puts pressure in the system and forces fluid in the pump across the T and into the line to the nozzles. When the foot comes off, the check valves prevent backflow in that line. The expansion of the rubber bulb draws fluid from the reservoir.

The reason that rubber bellows frequently fail is because they get old and leak like most rubber parts do. I've seen most of the leaks are on the neck of the bulb that extends out of the foot pump. The leakage will allow air into the bulb which prevents the system from working and will eventual lead to the rusting out of the metal washer that seals the bulb to the spring loaded pump housing.

IDK...maybe a leaking check valve could lead to system failure too. Most of the original valves that I've come across don't work. Aquarium check valves can be bought at a pet store or even Walmart for a couple dollars each. And, you probably just need one placed somewhere between the reservoir and the line split to the nozzles. I would try OGTS for the replacement rubber bulb/pump/bellows.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
703 Posts
There are two check valves in the T fitting. One going to the tank (bottom of the T) which allows fluid to be drawn in when the bellows is drawing in, but closes when the bellows is pushed. The other valve on the T is on the line that goes to the hood. It closes when fluid is being drawn up from the tank and opens when the bellows is pushed.

If you use aquarium valves you will need two. I put one on the bottom of the pick up tube in the tank and one in line next to the T going to the nossles. It worked, but I think my nozzles I used are too flowing and do not allow enough pressure in the system to spray my windows well.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
703 Posts
Only the GT had the electric portion in it, the wagons and mantas used the part you have.
Manta Rally's had the electric part too.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
275 Posts
There are two check valves in the T fitting. One going to the tank (bottom of the T) which allows fluid to be drawn in when the bellows is drawing in, but closes when the bellows is pushed. The other valve on the T is on the line that goes to the hood. It closes when fluid is being drawn up from the tank and opens when the bellows is pushed.

If you use aquarium valves you will need two. I put one on the bottom of the pick up tube in the tank and one in line next to the T going to the nossles. It worked, but I think my nozzles I used are too flowing and do not allow enough pressure in the system to spray my windows well.
That's how water pistols work - the two check valves and the finger trigger pump are all one piece. You can watch them work in the translucent versions. Here's a description:

http://entertainment.howstuffworks.com/water-blaster1.htm

So for the washer pump - the bulb is the trigger and the check valves are needed in the line within the washer fluid reservoir and the line between this tank and the nozzles. The bulb fills with water. Therefore, old rubber being flexed may crack and leak.

I just looked at my GT's system - the tee on top of the washer tank must have the valves built in as ghcoe wrote. I don't see any other check valves. I replaced the line from the tee to my new temporary washer nozzles with clear aquarium tubing, no check valve, and everything still works. If you have the original tee the retrofit should be easy, just blow and suck on the branches of the tee to determine which is the nozzle end - I can't see any indications on mine.
 

· UngerDog
Joined
·
1,432 Posts
I took another look at a couple T 's with a magnifying lens. The ones that I have show that both arms of the T on top of the reservoir are about 7/64" sized tubes without any valves in there. However, the tube that goes into the reservoir measures around 5/64" and there is a small one way valve in it (which isn't visible, but you know it's there when you blow and suck it)! So some original Opel T 's also have a valve in the tube leading to the nozzles. I get it!
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top