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Discussion Starter · #122 · (Edited)
Here is the quick design and 3D print of the plastic split insert that goes in the Aluminum ring to pass through the firewall for the fuel injection wiring harness.
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The reason the holes are offset funny is that I decided to insert a 3 mm stainless pin to hold the two halves of the circle in alignment.
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And here are how the pieces fit together.
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Sort of looks like a snowman.
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Discussion Starter · #123 · (Edited)
I hemmed and hawed a while, but finally committed and cut a hole from the engine compartment to the passenger foot well to run the wires to the ECU.
Below you can see the location of the hole
from the engine compartment view. That said, I actually cut the hole from the inside. I used a 2 1/8” hole saw.
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Then, I used the same 2 1/8” hole-saw to cut a groove on the back side of the cast aluminum pass through jig.
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and cleaned out the outer band with a 1/2” end mill in my mini mill. I used the holesaw cut to guide the manual x and y axis movements (no CNC here).
I ended up with an aluminum extension lip that slips inside the sheet metal hole and will protect the wires from getting damaged by any sharp sheet metal edges.
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Here it is in place at the end of the passenger footwell in the engine compartment.
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Then, drilled 2 holes in the aluminum and tapped them with M6 x 1 mm threads to match some stainless bolts from another project and it is ready to mount.
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It was a surprisingly tough install. I think I damaged one of the threads and should have taken it out and retapped. Angles and space were very limited both the engine compartment and the foot well. So it was difficult to get a drill in place or maneuver the wrench to tighten the bolts.

After some contorted sweating, I finally got the second bolt tightened. The first one was a breeze. Here it is ready for wires.
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Discussion Starter · #124 · (Edited)
Today, I wanted to finish my fuel rail hood down mechanism. The goal is a simple mechanism to hold the fuel rail securely, so that the fuel injectors stay in place properly aligned, oriented and seated so their orings seal properly.

First I shaped and reduced the height of my cast aluminum fuel rail hold down supports for the newest and shorter Bosch gen 4 compact injectors.
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Then drilled mounting holes cross ways through the square solid part of the fuel rail extrusion.
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I could not find a sharpie marker long enough to reach through the fuel rail holes, so i put some blue spraypaint on a cotton swab and marked the spot to drill the cast hold downs. Then I drilled and tapped them for 8 mm bolts. I cast these prior to fixing my aluminum porosity problem, but they will still do the trick.
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Next, I bolted the cast aluminum hold down feet to the fuel rail. Then I inserted 3D printed fake fuel injectors into the intake manifold and inserted the fuel rail onto them. This was my way of heeding the Rallybob warning to ensure alignment.

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Next, I tack welded the fuel rail hold down feet in place at each corner using a longer than usual tungsten stick out and stubby gas lens set up. The heat minimally deformed the plastic injectors, but blackened them quite nicely.. Then I removed the fuel rail and plastic injectors and TIG welded the hold-down feet in place.
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This was a great sequence in which to do things in to order to ensure alignment of the injectors and hold down bolts.
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Discussion Starter · #127 · (Edited)
Now onto my Rallybob impersonation (or is it car part Plagerism? shameless copying?) of the throttle linkage mechanism on a 1975 Opel Fuel injection intake manifold.

One thing I learned in terms of a principle, is that I am trying to get the long shaft to rotate 1/4 turn (90 degrees) when the throttle goes from closed to open (again 90 degrees) and connect it to the original opel throttle linkage (again seems like about 1/4 turn or 90 degrees from closed to wide open throttle). But transfer this motion into a different axis and different location. I thought this would be simple but I had a lot of pinch points and errors in proportion and lever arm lengths that requires some iterating to achieve.

The first thing I did was bolt the Nissan throttle body to the intake manifold as a reference point for fitment experiments. Next, I designed 2 holders (plates with a 1/4” hole) to hold a long rod to run the length of the body of the intake manifold. I designed and 3D printed a pivot for the rod that bolts on the 2 holes at the back of the manifold. I believe the bolts were 7 mm.
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And similarly designed and 3D printed a pivot plate that goes under the throttle body mounting bolts for the front of the rod on axis.
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For the rod , I picked up a 1/4” diameter aluminum rod at Home Depot for about $5.
here is the rod held up at the ends by the pivot plates.
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Then I made an aluminum arm with a few holes in it (I added a few while experimenting) and TIG welded it to the aluminum rod. This piece looked so good, but welding on this was a disaster which I had to grind and weld many times because I did not clamp it up properly initially for welding.
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Next, I removed the actuator from the throttle shaft and painted the green torsion springs black.
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After that I designed and 3D printed a longer lever arm for a longer throw distance and installed it on the throttle body shaft shaft.
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I never would have thought of this part on my own. I ordered some 1/4” rod ends. The ones I found were female and were about $11 for the pair. I cut a 3” length of the 1/4” aluminum and cut threads on the ends with a 1/4” die.
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Then screwed the rod ends onto the now threaded aluminum rod.
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This is a pretty nifty piece. I am amazed at the range of motion these provide.
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the next step is to get proper length bolts and possibly make the parts smaller if need be to fit in the allotted space.
 

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Discussion Starter · #128 · (Edited)
On the electrical side of things, I am wrestling down the sensor connector inputs for the Holley Terminator X ECU.

Here is the list and the plan for each sensor connection. The one I charted out today was #4.

1. Coolant Temperature Sensor. I had purchased an LS type TX3 coolant temperature sensor and modified my thermostat housing for it earlier in this post. I could hardly believe when the sensor would not plug into Terminator wiring harness. It took me a while (read several days and several calls to Holley tech service) but finally figured out that they had mislabeled the coolant temp sensor jack as the throttle position sensor. Once I figured out it was labeled wrong, it just plugged right in. Glad I was patient and did not go into Alice and dice mode on this one right away.

2. Manifold air temp sensor. I bought a standard GM LS engine manifold air temp sensor and it plugged right in. Another opportunity to use the big 3/8” NPT tap make it fit the Opel intake manifold.

3. Idle air control valve. Again I purchased a standard LS type idle air control valve and was delighted it plugged right in (despite having purchased the IAC before ordering the Holley Terminator X). I still need to find a discreet home for this unit.

wow, 3 for 3, I was on a roll, until I wasn’t.

4. Throttle position sensor. The throttle position sensor is on the throttle body is from a Nissan and was licensed by Bosch. The plug is totally different than the terminator. I identified 3 options today. A) cut up the terminator wiring harness and wire in the donor plug from the Nissan/ throttle body, B) wire a GM TPS plug on the Nissan/Bosch TPS. I ordered the pigtail version today. Or C) find a GM TPS with the right plug, right bolt pattern and right shaft shape. I may have found one and ordered it today. Will post the part number if it works.

5. Crank position sensor. I installed the 36-1 wheel and Bosch 5 volt, 3 wire crank position sensor earlier in this thread. It seems I need to build an ignition plug that can connect my crank position sensor and cam position sensor to the Holley ignition plug. I am going to only Chang one thing at a time and start with only batch fuel injection based on the coil signal. Then add crank position sensor, cam position sensor later and switch from batch to sequential port injection. And still later yet, run LS coils (sub harness will plug right into the terminator harness) and have the ECU control the timing table.

6) wide band oxygen sensor - comes with the unit, so it should plug right in.

7) Manifold Air Pressure - sensor is built into ECU. Just need to run a hose.
 

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Discussion Starter · #129 · (Edited)
Today, I am working on the Throttle Position Sensor electrical connection (#4 from the prior post). I am pursing the idea of a new GM LS Throttle Position Sensor that will plug directly into the Terminator Wiring harness. That way if I ever need to swap a part, it doesn’t require cutting wires and repinning harnesees, but rather a trip to the auto parts store and a 2 screw part swap.
The first step was to remove the Nissan TPS from the throttle body. I like what I see here in terms of bearings / seals and shaft.
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Below is the Nissan throttle position sensor on the left, next to the new GM TPS on the right.
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I picked this GM throttle position sensor because 1) it had the plug compatible with my wiring harness, 2) it had a flat shaft connection, and 3) the bolt pattern looked about right. Once it was in hand it turned out that 1) plug was exact fit (yes! no slicing and dicing of new wiring harnesses), but shaft size and bolt pattern were slightly different. So, after a bit of pondering, I did a little quick CAD work and 3D printed some adaptors. It took a few tries, but iterations are super fast and precise.

My conceptual idea for the TPS sensor adaptor is just a plate with rotated offset bolt patterns. The bolt spacing on the new TPS is about 40 mm, while the spacing for the bolts on the throttle body about 48 mm.
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Below is the printed model
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The new throttle position sensor locks in Tightly to the adaptor with no play even without the screws, thanks to the little alignment triangles every 60 degrees around the circumference.
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The idea with the shaft adaptor spacer is to let the metal flat part of the shaft surface do the work of moving the sensor. The only job of the plastic shaft spacer is to make the shaft larger in diameter to keep the shaft concentric with the Sensor axis so the flat part of the shaft can do its work.
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When I printed the next iteration of the model, the offset angle worked and the sensor was only advanced a few degrees when it slipped on to the shaft quite snugly. Surprisingly, the throttle range of motion was fully in the range of motion / sensing for the new throttle position sensor. And, all of the mounting holes lined up.
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I was thinking about this as a prototype just to see if it would work. But I may just run it on the car as is. The polymer is ABS with a melt temperature of about 200C (392F) and is supposed to be serviceable to 350F.

I adjusted the mechanical throttle plate stops so that there is a sliver of light that comes through as a small leak when the throttle plate is closed instead of a complete seal. Further adjustment may be required based on the Idle air control valve configuration.
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And at full throttle, the plate is horizontal. The terminator X claims to have “an easy to use” (yet to be proven) TPS calibration routine that should give 0% at idle to 100% at wide open throttle signal to the ECU.

Now, I just need some shiny new stainless mounting bolts and should be one step closer to up and running.
———update ———
Here is the throttle position sensor installed with the new button head stainless 6M bolts.
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Discussion Starter · #130 ·
Today is a glorious day outside. I am working on getting the fuel injection components in place. I removed the Weber carb and the rallybob style tented downdraft intake manifold (both of which will be for sale pending successful startup of the fuel injection system).

Routing the wiring harnesses through the firewall proved to be more difficult than anticipated. I guess I should I gone up one size on the holesaw. It was quite the puzzle. Here is the only order after several permutations that worked for the Holley Terminator X Universal harness for cabin mounted ECU. I went this route for a cleaner looking install. I almost gave up hope and cut a bigger hole (I think I used a 2 1/8” holesaw), but this did indeed work.

step 1, unplug the relay from about 2 feet back from the end of the harness.
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then, twist the base sideways and stick it through the firewall first (even though it is not at the end). Then work the fuse through which is also about 2 feet back from the end.
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For Step 2, you sort of have To double the big wiring harness back on itself and insert the big through next
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followed by the smaller plug
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then you can pull the loop of wire through caused by starting with the relay plug in the middle.
Step 3 is pulling the mid harness fuse holder
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And the CAN bus connector through
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now the main harness is in place and you can pull the power harness and assocIated fuse through.
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· Just Some Dude in Jersey
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Yes, I had to cut a distressingly large hole in my firewall to route the huge, long, Motronic, ECU connector.

Then, after just 2 years, I went with aftermarket FI and I don't need to have the ECU inside the car and could put it in a cool place in the engine compartment. Aaarrgghh! That left a huge hole in my firewall! I had to bolt together two huge 2 1/2" washers, one on the inside and one on the outside of the firewall, to plug the hole.
 

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Discussion Starter · #132 ·
So, now that the wiring harness is in place, i added the custom shaped insert to seal off the wires passage through the firewall.

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Then, I connected the power harness positive and grounds directly to the battery.
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Next, I moved onto the fitment of the intake manifold and identified the next issue. I have mechanical interference between the throttle linkage and the coolant temp sensor (see yellow circled area in the photo below). I actually modified the thermostat housing for the coolant temp sensor long before I did any of the recent work. I especially did not have the fancy solid mechanical throttle linkage built or even an idea of how I would do it back then.
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So thinking through this, I see a few options:
  1. Keep the throttle linkage as is and move the coolant temp sensor. I think I may have another coolant temp sensor bung. I could just TIG weld the old one shut, drill a new hole and TIG weld in the new bung. But, I really don’t want to drain the coolant again, don’t have a spare thermostat housing, and may use that bung on the intake manifold for my manifold air temp sensor.
  2. Keep the coolant temp sensor as is and try sci-fi guys lokar cable approach. Disadvantages are 1) another $80, 2) I would have to wait for delivery of the part, 3) I lose the cool mechanical linkage. These are understandable trade offs, and I may very well end up going down this path.
  3. I was asking myself, how I could keep both current linkage and thermostat housing and it hit me that I may be able to run the throttle body upside down. That would flip the linkage to the other side. In mind mind the experiment worked. I just need to go try it now and see if the linkage works and if it allows me to close the hood on the Opel GT. I’ll try this first and append to the post.
 

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Discussion Starter · #133 · (Edited)
Thank you for the PM replies and help. As someone else on the forum suggested, since the bolt pattern is square, you can rotate the throttle body.

First, I tried the upside down option. The lever went the opposite direction and the linkage did not work due to some interference.

The next option I tried was to rotate the throttle body 90 degrees. This may in fact work. It puts the throttle position sensor on top (which I think looks kind goofy) and the throttle shaft drive pointed down. The hood shuts and plenty of clearance
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in this instance, I was able to do a direct drive off the throttle shaft lever to the end of a piece of aluminum rod that I threaded for one of the 1/4” rod ends. At first I did not get a duty 90 degree swing to wide opel throttle, but I had a several printed throttle levers at different angles and pulled one I had discarded out of the trash can and drilled a new hole for a shorter lever arm and it achieved the full 90 degree swing.
Here is the rod end which connects the throttle shaft lever to a long push rod. It all stays neatly tucked away sort of parallel to the fuel rail. It provides plenty of clearance for the fuel hook up and coolant temp sensor. One difference is that instead of the rod rotating 90 degrees as originally designed, the rod moves in a linear motion along its axis.
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So, how to activate the linear rod motion with the original hard linkage? Another forum idea was to hook up a sniper was the bell crank. Neat idea that may work here. I would mount the bell crank on the firewall and it would turn the original gas pedal pull motion 90 degrees to push activate the long rod mounted to the intake manifold which would in turn move the blade on the throttle body.
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· Just Some Dude in Jersey
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Charlie had special low profile thermo housings made for the throttle clearance issue.

As much as I liked the oem linkage system, and especially the nice chromed/stainless steel variant, now that I have switched to cable throttle I prefer it. There's more adjustability possibilities and it's a fairly easy mod.
 

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Something to be aware of.

Today I ran down to CT to get an argon tank refilled (long story but I still have an account there), stopped at my dad’s business for a few things, and dropped off my own EFI intake plus a few other parts at my powdercoater’s.

At my father’s shop, one of the things I set out to do was use their wide-belt sander to true up my intake manifolds. This includes the Cannon 2-barrel downdraft intake and my own modified EFI Opel intake.

Well, I forgot to take a pic while I was using the belt sander to true the intake flange, but there was a noticeable ‘dip’ on the flange in two spots. Everything else trued up almost instantly, but those two spots took a bit of effort to sand out.

I’m guessing it’s from the welding of the injector bungs. So you might want to check closely because I guarantee it’s a source for a significant vacuum leak!

Pic from another intake I own to show location…it was the same spot on both flanges.
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Discussion Starter · #136 ·
Something to be aware of.

Today I ran down to CT to get an argon tank refilled (long story but I still have an account there), stopped at my dad’s business for a few things, and dropped off my own EFI intake plus a few other parts at my powdercoater’s.

At my father’s shop, one of the things I set out to do was use their wide-belt sander to true up my intake manifolds. This includes the Cannon 2-barrel downdraft intake and my own modified EFI Opel intake.

Well, I forgot to take a pic while I was using the belt sander to true the intake flange, but there was a noticeable ‘dip’ on the flange in two spots. Everything else trued up almost instantly, but those two spots took a bit of effort to sand out.

I’m guessing it’s from the welding of the injector bungs. So you might want to check closely because I guarantee it’s a source for a significant vacuum leak!

Pic from another intake I own to show location…it was the same spot on both flanges. View attachment 448890
]
thank For the proactive note and watch out. That could save me a lot of chasing of vacuum leaks!
 

· Just Some Dude in Jersey
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I do the same thing to some of the parts I've had modded and/or chromed. Chroming can leave ridges of extra chrome at the corners of things and, as Bob said, welding can warp your modded items. I have a bench top belt sander, with a very flat 12" wide surface between the rollers, and I bought various grades of metal grade sander belts for it. With the metal grade paper I can do all sort of shaping of metal, deburring, overall clean up, etc. It's also great for flattening out stuff that needs to be dead flat, such as manifolds, carb bases, thermo housings, exhaust couplings, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #138 · (Edited)
So, I am sort of exploring different throttle actuating mechanisms. It is sort of like playing with Lego’s, but you need to build / procure your own pieces. Once you have a bunch of pieces, many different designs are quick to try out. The assortment is 1/4”
Aluminum rod, 1/4” nuts and bolts, 1/4” rod ends, and some 3D printed levers and cranks. It has been fun to experiment and learn how this works. By the way, after hitting the aluminum rod with some 600 grit sandpaper and a few seconds on the buffer I was pretty pleased with the shine (although might not pass muster with our Chromey Homey).
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I cut off a piece of 1/8” thick 1.5” aluminum angle, drilled 2 holes at 52 mm spacing to match the original throttle bracket on the passenger side firewall and drilled a pivot hole.Here is the new bell crank bracket after rounded off the edges on the belt sander.

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next I 3D printed a crank that was 45 mm throw with a built in spacer. I bolted it together with 1/4” button head stainless bolts and a lock nut.

here you can see the nice gap provided by the spacer printed into the bell crank.
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It looked nice and pivoted well, but the throw was too small. So I printed a crank with a 60 mm throw and drilled a new hole near the edge as the pivot for the 60 mm throw crank. but abandoned that because the existing opel throttle rod hit the back of the head before full swing.

After that I actually took some measurements and landed at a 50 mm throw. Then, I moved the pivot back near the base of the bracket and off center to get unobstructed rotational motion for a mid size bell crank. I also machined a slot off of the edge of the base for clearance of the rod end bolt necessary with the off center picot
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I printed quite a few throttle body levers and drilled various holes in them to get the right throw.
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That is the beauty of 3D design and printing it is super fast to iterate, which is great because although I want to, I rarely get things right the first time. One of the holes on the throttle lever was just about 1 mm too much throw. And as you know holes are hard to move. So I just punched in a new dimension in my CAD software and hit print last night. Here is the new lever with only one hole and a place for the spring to grab.
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I made a new long aluminum bar threaded at the ends for the rod ends. I learned from my prior mistakes and made some soft jaws out of poplar with sand paper for gription (my hybrid word of grip, friction, traction) to hold the rod in place and keep it from spinning while threading the ends with the die.

While testing fitment, I found that the bell crank could over rotate past its apex at 90 degrees and not be able to overcome the return spring force. My solution was to add a built in stop the width of my finger (the prototype) that would hit the fire wall to stop the rotation. I just hit the print button and will have this part before my coffee is finished.
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here is how the bell crank looks installed and adjusted so it is hitting the stops on the throttle body.
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And here is the lever arm attachment on the throttle body.
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One thing that surprised me about this approach is how adjustable it is. I mean it is adjustable so many in a way . Everything from degrees of offset when a shaft goes to a lever to size of bell crank, length of rods. And it the rod is too long, sometimes I would just add more threads instead of cutting it off. The key is to know where to make an adjustment. Right now I am doing one final print with 1 mm less throw on the throttle body arm (35 mm) to get a little more adjustment range at idle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #139 ·
While running back and forth with the intake manifold from the shop to the car, I noticed a harsh edge just inside the flange. It was a sort of razor sharp bit of casting.
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I fired up the air compressor and hit it with the die grinder and now it is quite smooth. The double carbide burr is fun to use. It did however fill the intake manifold with bits of aluminum. But, if it delivers an extra horse power, it was worth it.
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Discussion Starter · #140 · (Edited)
Now that the bellcrank is working well in terms of range of motion, throttle body actuation, etc, it is time to connect the other end to the gas pedal.

I could not figure out how to remove the throttle linkage with the engine in place. So, what I did was cut off the end with a dremel tool.
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Which then allowed me to unscrew the back rod.
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I hit it with the wire wheel and some 220 grit sand paper and it cleaned up nicely.
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I trimmed an inch off of the end and Squared up the end on the belt sander. Then I drilled it with a #7 drill bit.
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And tapped with 1/4” x 28 fine threads inside to receive the rod end.
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Then hit it with a coat of primer and a coat of aluminum paint.
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————————
Update the rod end came in. I trimmed off the threaded piece and screwed it into the end of the tapped Opel back throttle rod.
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There is still plenty of adjustment left on the other end. Now I should be able to hook up and tear the linkage from the gas pedal through the bell crank and actuate the throttle. Once power Up the ECU I should be able to see the throttle position on the Terminator handheld readout.

Here is the bellcrank drive side hooked up to the opel gas pedal through the original linkage.
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here It is hooked up on both sides with full range of motion on the throttle body throttle plate!
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