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That was me with the widened stock wheels. It's definitely not something you do at home. Even if you were successful in splitting the rims and making a spacer, it would be VERY difficult to get it all back together and have it actually be round when you're done welding. I paid to have mine widened. Actually, 'widened' is a misnomer, in truth they took my old wheel, chucked it into a large lathe, and cut the area where the center of the wheel is welded to the outer rim shell. Then they welded my center into one of their own rim shells, using a rotating welding jig that keeps the rim spinning true. By going this route, I have the option of virtually any offset, and any rim width from 6" wide to 12" in 1" increments. And even the option of them welding my center into a chromed rim shell. I've had 4 sets of wheels widened this way, but it's been a few years since I've had it done last. Used to cost me $75 per wheel. I ran 13 X 8 front and 13 X 9 rear on my Ascona.....no flares required.

On a GT, you could run 8" rear wheels no problem. Max backspacing is 5.5", any more will hit the panhard bar mount on the passenger side. In fact, you could *probably* stuff a 9" rim back there, but I haven't tried it. The key to the fronts when running 13" wheels is no more than 4" backspacing, or you will get too close to the upper ball joint, and the rim will rub the back edge of the upper a-arm at full steering lock.

Bob
 

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:eek: Sorry about misquoting the name Bob. I had a brain fade there at the bottom of your post and just looked over at Chuck's name on the next reply. Thanks for the reply though. I thought this sounded like a bit much for a home project, but it was worth checking into. Speaking of wheels, I was wondering if you or anyone has ever checked into any of the US wheel brand wheels from Summit Racing? I was looking through their new catalog and they have a couple 13" wheels listed, but they do not list what bolt patterns are available. Most of the wheels are priced at anywhere from $22-$42, so if they can get them in the 4X100 pattern, it might be a good way to pick up some cheap aftermarket wheels. It would be even better if they could get the 14" or 15" wheels with our pattern, but I find that very doubtful. Anyway, just thought I would throw that out there. Thanks again for the info on the widened wheels BOB :D

John
 

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rims

I have a set of rims that were widened by a shop in SC for the GT I had. They won't fit on my Kadett without flares and are really of little use to me. They appear to be widened @ 1.75 inches and fit a 205/60 tire nicely. I would probabably let them go pretty cheap, and I plan to be driving throught on either I80 or I90 in 3 weeks. Two of them are on the back of my friends GT, and they really do look nice, for "stock" wheels. They really need a repaint, and they are kinda on the heavy side, but if you are interested let me know via e-mail.

I do still need a Kadett front-end and a 1.1 motor....
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Yeah. What Bob said.

The process is best left to an expert welder with access to a good-sized lathe. While this process was pretty common 30 years ago, there are few shops left that would even think of attempting it, and the cost of the finished product often exceeds the cost of a similar alloy couterpart. The plus side is the steel wheels are a tad more durable than the alloys - a big bennie inna state where the potholes are so big, vendors set up hotdog stands for the hapless victims who have the misfortune of falling in them.
 

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budget rebuild "advance terminology"

Rallybob, I am going to pursue the budget rebuild parameters that you have mentioned.

1-As far as the cam, Is the 5 degrees of advance that you mention , "after top dead center on the intake lobe"?

2 - is this still the recommended cam (I-f 207 and exhaust f265?)

3- stock springs are re used?
 

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I too would like final answers to these questions; Wife's 1971 Opel GT if having her engine rebuilt. Lower-compression engine off the bat so any tips are appreciated since we have her in the shop anyway.
Thanks all :)
 

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I too would like final answers to these questions; Wife's 1971 Opel GT if having her engine rebuilt. Lower-compression engine off the bat so any tips are appreciated since we have her in the shop anyway.
Thanks all :)
Wow. Digging this up from the depths! 16 years later, I guess I could answer the original questions.


1-As far as the cam, Is the 5 degrees of advance that you mention , "after top dead center on the intake lobe"?

2 - is this still the recommended cam (I-f 207 and exhaust f265?)

3- stock springs are re used?
1) - 5 degrees advanced is 5 degrees BTDC.

2) - It was a nice cam, yes, and would still be recommended, but Cam Techniques closed up in 2014. The owner Dave passed away a few years ago. I’m sure other companies out there could grind a similar profile.

3) - Yes, the cam was designed to be used with stock springs. Preferably stock hydraulic cam springs, 1971-1975 vintage.
 

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So with a 1971 Engine being rebuilt with the goal of reliability and a 'little' more power than stock (preferably close to 100hp), what should I be looking at?
I see a "Combination Camshaft" on OGTS. Perhaps combine this with larger valves?
I am surely no engine expert but since it's apart, may as well do what I can :) .
Thanks so much for your reply!
 

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So with a 1971 Engine being rebuilt with the goal of reliability and a 'little' more power than stock (preferably close to 100hp), what should I be looking at?
I see a "Combination Camshaft" on OGTS. Perhaps combine this with larger valves?
I am surely no engine expert but since it's apart, may as well do what I can :) .
Thanks so much for your reply!
There are many, MANY good threads here to read and ponder. One of my favourite is


especially post #11. If nothing else, read that post.

And read as many threads as possible on this Forum:


HTH
 

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