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Maybe center the handle with front & back springs to keep it centered, then some momentary contacts on front and back that activate a switch. The switches could be set up like a "one touch up/down" window switch. No need to worry about the window up/down pinch protection safety aspect.
 

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Your Noble Friend ;-)
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Awesome work, P.J., as always! :love: I love it!

My 2 cents: Do you really need to keep the locking mechanism? The actuator itself should hold the lights in place reliably.

Dieter
 

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How much holding power does the actuator have in the open and closed positions? The harder original springs are there to keep the lights in either the closed or open position when hitting bumps while driving.
 

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RunOpel
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You all keep the brain power moving forward and this will become reality. I would be in for one as well. Nice work from all.
 

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Opel Key Master
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I have on multiple occasions stretched the springs to make them lighter to help with locking in, I cannot recall 100%, but I think they will lock in without the spring pretty much, it’s the half moon piece that pushes the release that unlocks them. I have some out, I will look at them and see if that function holds tight without springs, and try to disengage them
 

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Opeler
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3,698 Posts
Discussion Starter #28
PJ, are you using just a 3 prong switch, or is it a 4 prong? Like a DPDT? A little info on the wiring would be nice, just do the actuators have two wires going to them? If so I guess you need a 4 prong switch to reverse the polarity. I believe Gordo is correct on doing this with a relay, I think a 5 prong relay with 87a and 87b could do the same, but if you can do it all in a switch, why not? Lets get a switch figured out that utilizes either the factory handle, or the middle switch. I see benefits with both.
This is the switch that I used.
 

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Opeler
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Discussion Starter #29
I have on multiple occasions stretched the springs to make them lighter to help with locking in, I cannot recall 100%, but I think they will lock in without the spring pretty much, it’s the half moon piece that pushes the release that unlocks them. I have some out, I will look at them and see if that function holds tight without springs, and try to disengage them
They will not lock without spring. Also, locking triggers micro switches as well. Yes, the whole thing could be modified to remove locking mechanism and micro switches as the actuator will hold headlights in open or closed position but I did not want to go that far.
 

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Opeler
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3,698 Posts
Discussion Starter #30
PJ, on the body bracket for the original cable, did you stull use the cable union? Guide? Or just the bare bracket?
Just the bare bracket Keith. The actuator fits perfectly in the bracket hole.
425983
 

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593 Posts
This is the switch that I used.
Just FYI... switches from Princess are all pretty much counterfeit fire hazards. And I say that as someone who'll throw any scabby old switch onto any sketchy project.

They're all cheap, lightweight crap, that the factory will print whatever current handling rating you want on them. I've full on melted some of them down (as in, plastic dripped away) at 1/4 of their rated current. They often have poor snapback and contact cleaning ability, so very quickly they start to arc and spark with use. You're probably okay because your normal position is inert, but if this was in power use constantly either way, I'd say rip it out and buy a brand name switch.
 

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What PJ used can be made out of any dpdt toggle switch. You just need a center position off momentary configuration.
 

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PJ, did you use a stainless steel heim joint or a ChromMoly one? I assume you purchased it from McMaster too.
 

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Opeler
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Discussion Starter #34
I used ChromeMoly heim joint.
 

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And I know you got the split collar from McMaster also. Why did you choose 8mm? Did you have a piece of 8mm rod laying around that you welded to it?
 

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Sorry, I meant why 8mm heim joint? Obviously the shaft collar needs to fit the existing shaft on the headlight mechanism.
 

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Opeler
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Discussion Starter #37
I used 8 mm heim joint as the diameter of original pin (the one that I chopped off) was 8 mm. That also gave me the possibility to reverse everything back to the cable system in the case that the project hit the wall. I actually used M8 bolt (unthreaded part) to make the pin.
 

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Make up a kit for this, great idea , I would buy one. You could start a decent little side business with these.
 

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Another excellent thread on keeping the Gt working. Thanks - you've put some ideas in my head. From a long-retired aero-systems mechanical engineer!
 
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