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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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14,286 Posts
Discussion Starter #421 (Edited)
Ha! Ha! Yuk! Yuk!

:lmao:

The only rope I had that was big and strong was stuff that looked like climbing rope. I started out with my truck just 4' from my steps, but, Holy Cow, the rope just kept on stretching and stretching and stretching and still the engine didn't move. Finally it started going. At one point it was balanced like a teeter-totter on the edge of the top step, wood in the air/engine in the air. If the ropes snapped at that point it would have been a real disaster. But, I survived another engine extraction from my basement!

Hope I never have to do this again....

:veryhappy
 

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RunOpel
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1,233 Posts
Just when I thought I have seen everything, Gordo you come along and prove different. That is truly amazing :yup:

You built an engine in your basement :lmao: That is a beautiful engine, glad you didn't damage it in the process.

I have this mechanic friend who rebuilt a motorcycle when he was in high school. His room was in the basement and
his dad had no idea what he was doing. He would bring literally pieces of the motorcycle hidden down to his room.
To the astonishment of his dad when he completed the project, he had to have his dad help him move it out of his
room and the house. They had to remove some of the door jams to get the motorcycle out. It was an absolute miracle
according to his dad. He said his dad didn't punish him because he was so stunned, all he could do was cry and be proud
of his son.
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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14,286 Posts
Discussion Starter #423
Wow, that's a great story!

I've contemplated(not seriously) taking out a portion of my basement's back wall and making a ramp, so that I could drive my GT down into my basement. Nah, bad idea. My whole house is made out of heavy cinder blocks. The place would come tumbling down if I took a wall out.

:lmao:
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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14,286 Posts
Discussion Starter #427 (Edited)
I kinda goofed this time around with the piling up of 2x4's, 4x4's, and wood scraps on my dolly to elevate the engine/tranny just above where it normally sits. I reattached the engine to the tranny on the rolling table in my yard and did final torqing to the various attachment bolts, then lifted it with the hoist, stacked up wood on the dolly, and set the engine/tranny down on it. In theory, I just lift the car with the lift, roll the engine/tranny under it, then slowly lower the car down on top of it, shifting/rolling the engine as I do so to clear various things. Done right, I can settle the car down onto the engine with both the tranny support and the engine crossmember touching the body at the bolt holes. Unfortunately I goofed on the piled up height of my wood and the front of the engine/tranny assemblage and had the height of the front of the engine 2" too low. %&[email protected]#! I couldn't get the engine crossmember bolts anywhere near starting and I couldn't shove the engine far enough forward for the crankshaft pulley and timing cover bits to clear the front suspension crossmember. This really F'd with me for quite some time and I had no way to get a jack in there to lift the front of the engine. I was tired and hungry and frustrated and resolved to try again today. Worst case scenario would have been to lift the car off the engine, roll it out, engine hoist it up and insert the missing 2x4 I needed, then do the whole lowering and positioning thing all over again. That would have been several hours of hard work. But after I took a destressing shower and a nap, I went out in the evening yesterday and took another look at things and discovered that I could feed my ultra low jack over the lift crossmember in the front and under the car and then lift up the front of the dolly 2", basically making it pop a wheelie. I got the bolts in and could sleep soundly last night.

As far as help, I only needed the assistance of my tenant to help me carry the tranny out of the basement and to eyeball the engine sled as I pulled it out of the basement.

As far as the goof with the piles of wood, I really should have measured the distance to the ground of the tranny pan and the two "titz" at the front of the oil pan when the engine/tranny is mounted in the car. Then I would have known how much wood to pile up to assure that the engine and tranny crossmembers touched the body at the same time. As it was, I had only been able to get one tranny crossmember bolt in and couldn't shove the engine any farther forward to get the second one in because the timing cover was hitting the suspension crossmember due to the front of the engine being 2" too low.


As it pertains to this thread's title, I did have an additional complication at the timing cover due to the holder for the crank position sensor. Keep in mind that I'm using motor mounts that are 1/2" shorter than oem, this made the bit of the timing cover/oil pump sit 1/2" closer to the suspension crossmember. That holder also sticks forward about an inch more than the oil pump normally does. That one extra inch forward combined with the half inch lower was challenging. It's hard to photo the situation but here's a few pics showing that the sensor holder is about 1"-1.5" above the crossmember. It's going to be tough to fit the sensor into the holder. I may have to remove the tranny crossmember bolts and lower the tranny end down in order to tilt up the front of the engine, so that I can slip the sensor into the holder.:

CPS really close to the suspension (1).jpg CPS really close to the suspension (3).jpg
 

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RunOpel
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1,233 Posts
Times like that Gordo make you wish you had a car lift :yup: Wow your right, not much clearance, but
looks like enough to do what you need to do. Nice work and one step closer :banana:
 
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4,231 Posts
Times like that Gordo make you wish you had a car lift :yup: Wow your right, not much clearance, but
looks like enough to do what you need to do. Nice work and one step closer :banana:
Otherwise Gordon would never be the Opel Service Station in NJ .:lmao:
He only got the full size Opel Blitz Embleme from good old Germany.
Gordon`s Garage Lifter is nearly perfect for work at the GTX.
 

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Vendor
Joined
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2,571 Posts
Ha! Ha! Yuk! Yuk!

:lmao:

The only rope I had that was big and strong was stuff that looked like climbing rope. I started out with my truck just 4' from my steps, but, Holy Cow, the rope just kept on stretching and stretching and stretching and still the engine didn't move. Finally it started going. At one point it was balanced like a teeter-totter on the edge of the top step, wood in the air/engine in the air. If the ropes snapped at that point it would have been a real disaster. But, I survived another engine extraction from my basement!

Hope I never have to do this again....

:veryhappy
Holy Schnitz!
Now I know how the great pyramids in Egypt were built. :yikes:
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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14,286 Posts
Discussion Starter #434
Like many people here, he will never be able to retire.

I am thinking very hard that I will retire in November. My body is too banged up to do mechanical work anymore.

Jim is working at my competitor: FedEx. It is just a schitty job for low pay.
 

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Senior Contributor
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4,971 Posts
Like many people here, he will never be able to retire.

I am thinking very hard that I will retire in November. My body is too banged up to do mechanical work anymore.

Jim is working at my competitor: FedEx. It is just a schitty job for low pay.
Time to move south, 69 degrees at 7am. Played golf in short sleeves at 8:30am. I can drive my GT whenever I want to. Sure it's a little hot to drive it in the summer but I think you have A/C right?
 
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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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14,286 Posts
Discussion Starter #437
Okay, one project a day(give or take)....

Reinstall driveshaft - X
Route and reattach flexible tranny line quick disconnects - X
Plug in digital tach wire at speedo gear - X
Reattach sway bars - X
Reinstall oil pressure sender above oil pump and plug in it's wires......urrrrrrrrh(car skidding sound).....CRASH! Where the heck is my dang sensor? I looked everywhere. Ordered new one, the next day I finally found someone at Dakota Digital who understood that I needed an adapter for their sensor that the guy from the previous day said didn't need an adapter. It's actually an adapter for their water temp sensors. I had to guess which size I needed, 12mm or 16mm yurropean pipe thread. I chose the 12mm one. - Pending
install bolts into the motor crossmember wings - Still working on that

:veryhappy
 

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RunOpel
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1,233 Posts
Your making progress Gordo, keep it going :banana:

Jeff I'm jealous of your weather, were getting snow in the Pacific NW and its crappy for the Opel :yup:
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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14,286 Posts
Discussion Starter #439 (Edited)
I did a test fitting of the FI manifold to start the process of figuring out how I'll route the air duct work and where/how the heck I'll deal with that dang air flow meter:

Chromed FI test fit (1).jpg Chromed FI test fit (2).jpg Chromed FI test fit (3).jpg Chromed FI test fit (4).jpg Chromed FI test fit (5).jpg Chromed FI test fit (6).jpg Chromed FI test fit (7).jpg

AAARRRGGGHHH! I hate that fluckin' air flow meter! What a clunky hunk 'o' crapp! Jeesus Gawd! It's sooooo freakin' ugly and out of place.

I absolutely can't believe there aren't alternatives to this thing, but apparently there aren't.

I'm assuming that I have to keep it more or less level the way you see it in the pics, but maybe it could work sideways mounted. Don't know.

I'm trying not to mount the whole thing with air cleaner in front of the radiator, but, for esthetic reasons, it's looking more and more likely that I'll have to. But if I do that it will take up all the visual space in front of the rad and I'll have to come up with some mighty awkward brackets to hold the thing. Maybe stand-offs sticking up from my battery box cover.

However, if I DO mount it and the air cleaner in front of the rad, then the engine compartment will be nicely decongested and I'll just have a flex hose going from the throttle body to and through the radiator wall to the meter.


:cussing: :cussing: :cussing:
 
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