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Sure. Although I'd probably use stainless steel ones. The bigger problem is drilling holes in the stainless steel for rivets and such. You might as well throw the drill bit away after each hole, they'll go dull that fast. Cutting stainless is an issue, too. The shrouds have to over hang the top tank of the rad. The tank sticks out about 3/8"-1/2" from the fins. I'd like to have the shroud snug up against the cooling fins. I plan on putting door edge molding on the edge of the shroud that will touch the fins to dampen vibration. If I do it this way, I'll have to cut notches or a 3/8"-1/2" thick strip out of the top of the shroud. Forget trying to use a hack saw, I use an angle grinder with a cut off wheel.

I just took 15 minutes to size things up. I'll work on this project this weekend. First I want to wrap up the fuel pump hook up and hose routing. :)
You can get drill bits for stainless from McMaster. I had a job at work a few years back that required drilled about 1000 holes through stainless 1 x 2 rectangular tube, the bits from McMaster did the trick. I think I went through 3 of them.
 

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Nah. They're just anxious for me to STOP POSTING endless pics of incomprehensible chromy stuff. :ROFLMAO:
WELL speaking for my self I'm enjoying the heck out of it and my son is following as well Keep it up bud your doing fine by me
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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Discussion Starter #503
I pretty much wrapped up my stainless steel radiator shroud this morning by 8am. I normally get up at 5am for work and I'm the kind of guy who dives right into work one minute after I punch in. I maintain the same attitude on my days off. So, what you see in the pics is the finished assemblage, I just have to snip the wire ties, peel off the outside protective white plastic film and transfer it all to the car. I used door edge molding on the edge that touches the radiator to protect the radiator and dampen vibration. I have chromed plastic wire ties to use for final assembly. I made 3 "points of contact" at each attachment point to prevent pivoting: 2 holes through the metal and 1-2 holes through the remnants of the oem shroud. I repurposed the lower 1/3 of the oem shroud to hold the hoop together and maintain it's circularity and to provide the lower attachment to the radiator(There's some extra holes in it from previous shroud mods). I then cut sections out of the remainder of the oem shroud to fill the left side gap and work as upper attachment points. The lower part of the oem shroud is on the outside of the hoop. This is okay because you can't see that part at car shows. The mounted the upper "brackets" on the inside of the hoop to hide them. It's all rock solid with no flexing or vibration. Yeah, it looks like Frankensteinian crap on my workbench right now, but it will look just dandy on my show car. I hope to install it later today. FYI: I thought the strips of metal I bought, being just 2" wide, would be a little shallow in depth compared to the oem shroud, because my measurements of the depth of the oem shroud seemed to be a little under 2 1/2". But with the edge molding and other factors it turned out to be almost 1/4" DEEPER. Yay!
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RunOpel
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Ha that's an understatement :p Well it wouldn't be a normal Opel day without some posting from Gordo :) Everyone would wonder if you were okay or not. I for one sure enjoy all your various postings especially your current engine project. I wish I lived closer so I could meet you in person and see that awesome Opel you are working on.
 

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I'm with ya up to the zip tie part Gordo
Would it not be better to use a stainless bolts or depending on the spread of your looped holes stainless cable ties the kind you would use to make a loop in metal cables or something similar
I mean a least the bolts you won't have to replace every 6 months or so do to dryrot
JMO I like the rest though and should improve air flow a bit with the extra 1/2"
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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Discussion Starter #507
Universal raised port mini thermo housing

The thermo housing arrived from the chromers and it's just friggin' GREAT! You can set it up with or without a heater outlet, with an oem style one wire thermo sensor, or a 2-wire FI sensor, or both, or other combinations(My digital dash has it's own sensor and I needed a place for that). Bypass can be achieved by simply drilling an 1/8" hole in your thermostat or other methods such as using the heater hose outlet, etc. Lots of pictures for you to drool over....
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Opel Tinkerer and Rescuer
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7,399 Posts
The translation of the wording for the Oktanzahlstecker is as follows:

<<< Engines with the Motronic ML 4.1 were used in the Opel Omega A and the Opel Senator B up to model year 1990.

For the C30LE engine, this Motronic variant remained current until the engine was discontinued. This also applies to the Irmscher C36NEI motor based on the C30LE motor.

All engines with Motronic ML 4.1 can be operated with unleaded regular gasoline (ROZ 91), optionally also with unleaded Super (ROZ 95) or with unleaded Super-Plus (ROZ 98).

In contrast to the more modern Motronic M 1.5 since model year 1990, the octane plug on the right side of the vehicle behind the strut dome must be plugged into either "91" or "95" in order to activate the characteristic curves valid in the control unit depending on the fuel type.

The corresponding coding plug for operation with ROZ 98 could be ordered from the Opel dealer network. >>>


So, apparently this is a switch or a plug in gizmo that either lets you switch between fuel grades on the fly or it's a gizmo that you plug into the harness in one of two ways to always have the engine set to run Regular or Premium. As far as I know, 2.4's are recommended to run Premium, so I guess I would always have it set for Premium.

Thoughts?
Sounds like there is a resistor with diode or something in that.. if a different one could go in.

But yes sounds right. So far I havent noticed a huge difference with the plug in either way. But maybe if you get the car dynoed with 93 octane, you can then dyno with the plug one way and then the other and see if it makes a difference.
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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13,819 Posts
Discussion Starter #510
More progress today. I straightened up my driver's side wiring and battery connections, relocated my rad overflow bottle, and did a custom install of my dizzy with cool holder. Only 2 wires: The former Coil+ which will turn on the FI and the tach need to be connected. The FI computer will juice up the coil instead of the ignition switch. Everything is pretty much where it will be on the driver's side. The high pressure FI fuel line awaits the filter and hook up to the fuel rail.
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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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Discussion Starter #511
Okay, I'm done with the Norbert grieving and the best therapy for getting over his passing is to plunge back into Opel work.

It's been and going to continue to be rainy all week, so I'll resume work this weekend. Just a few more things to route, hook up, and modify. Then comes the wiring. In the meantime I ponder things like what future mods could I do to this system? I really hate that dang baby piano-shaped air flow meter. I hate even more that I've got it awkwardly positioned in front of the radiator due to it's awkward shape. Right now I just want to hook things up so that the FI works. Once that's done I can play with ideas for that AFM. Several months ago I took my preliminary test fit pics, but at the time I didn't know that I could mount the AFM vertically, sideways, upside down, and such. I thought it HAD to be right side up and horizontal. I'm going to revisit the test fitting and see if I can position to fit on the engine side of the radiator wall and be connected to an air filter more or less fastened to the other side of the radiator wall at the cold air intake opening. Something like this:

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There doesn't need to be a flowed, ducted, passageway for the air to flow to the throttle. The throttle could be attached to the side of a box. The air flow meter could be "somewhere" in the box. The only thing that matters is that all of the air entering the throttle must pass through the air flow meter with no leakage of air coming from other places. If I can find a position for the AFM that doesn't piss me off and air flow to meter and throttle is adequate, then I'll cut pieces of cardboard and fit them to form an air tight box. Then I'll transfer those measurement to aluminum sheet metal and fold up a box. I did a similar thing with my heater box patch plate and my single side draft air box. We'll see what I can come up with.

A year of more from now I'd like to try to substitute a modern Mass Air Flow meter, which will be much smaller and won't require a box. This will require switching to an aftermarket FI control system. So, I'll be looking for the most self-learning, easy to hook up, system that I can use with the Opel FI hardware. Food for thought for down the road....
 

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Universal raised port mini thermo housing

The thermo housing arrived from the chromers and it's just friggin' GREAT! You can set it up with or without a heater outlet, with an oem style one wire thermo sensor, or a 2-wire FI sensor, or both, or other combinations(My digital dash has it's own sensor and I needed a place for that). Bypass can be achieved by simply drilling an 1/8" hole in your thermostat or other methods such as using the heater hose outlet, etc. Lots of pictures for you to drool over.... View attachment 424220 View attachment 424221 View attachment 424222 View attachment 424223 View attachment 424224 View attachment 424225 View attachment 424226 View attachment 424227 View attachment 424229 View attachment 424230
Impressive size difference compared to stock! Chrome looks awesome
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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13,819 Posts
Discussion Starter #513
Yeah, they really over-thought things back in the early days of FI. Or under thought. I've seen other Air Flow Meters on Ebay and most are just as obnoxiously shaped and sized. MAF's on the other hand can be a simple 3" diameter tube that's just 4" long. A simple flap to measure the air and a space age piece of wire to measure the temperature. The flap inside the Motronic AFM is 2" wide and 6" long. There's a 3" diameter round hole for the air to enter, but just a 2.5" SQUARE opening for the air to exit. WHAT THE FLOCK! What ding dong came up with those ideas?
 

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Senior Contributor
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Okay, I'm done with the Norbert grieving and the best therapy for getting over his passing is to plunge back into Opel work.

It's been and going to continue to be rainy all week, so I'll resume work this weekend. Just a few more things to route, hook up, and modify. Then comes the wiring. In the meantime I ponder things like what future mods could I do to this system? I really hate that dang baby piano-shaped air flow meter. I hate even more that I've got it awkwardly positioned in front of the radiator due to it's awkward shape. Right now I just want to hook things up so that the FI works. Once that's done I can play with ideas for that AFM. Several months ago I took my preliminary test fit pics, but at the time I didn't know that I could mount the AFM vertically, sideways, upside down, and such. I thought it HAD to be right side up and horizontal. I'm going to revisit the test fitting and see if I can position to fit on the engine side of the radiator wall and be connected to an air filter more or less fastened to the other side of the radiator wall at the cold air intake opening. Something like this:

View attachment 424332

There doesn't need to be a flowed, ducted, passageway for the air to flow to the throttle. The throttle could be attached to the side of a box. The air flow meter could be "somewhere" in the box. The only thing that matters is that all of the air entering the throttle must pass through the air flow meter with no leakage of air coming from other places. If I can find a position for the AFM that doesn't piss me off and air flow to meter and throttle is adequate, then I'll cut pieces of cardboard and fit them to form an air tight box. Then I'll transfer those measurement to aluminum sheet metal and fold up a box. I did a similar thing with my heater box patch plate and my single side draft air box. We'll see what I can come up with.

A year of more from now I'd like to try to substitute a modern Mass Air Flow meter, which will be much smaller and won't require a box. This will require switching to an aftermarket FI control system. So, I'll be looking for the most self-learning, easy to hook up, system that I can use with the Opel FI hardware. Food for thought for down the road....
You do not need a MAF if you go with a system that is capable of Speed Density fuel control. It uses manifold vacuum and rpm to determine the location in the table that controls the fuel. If you are bent on using a MAF you can. I don't know about other systems but I do know that MegaSquirt can do it either way. If you want to begin to research it before you pull the trigger on the wiring the MSII manual is HERE. The wiring will be very different for an aftermarket system as compared to what you are doing. All you would have to connect to your throttle body would be an air filter.
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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Discussion Starter #515
"Speed Density fuel control " ~ Oh my, that sounds VERY interesting, if it can be made to work. I never heard of that. I'll have to do some research. Maybe someone else can look up and post for us how that all works. :)
 

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"Speed Density fuel control " ~ Oh my, that sounds VERY interesting, if it can be made to work. I never heard of that. I'll have to do some research. Maybe someone else can look up and post for us how that all works. :)
Click on the link I posted above and start reading. It will take a looooong time for it to sink in if you are anything like me. I have said many times that I printed the entire MegaManual out and when my wife was reading her entertaining books in bed I was reading and re-reading the MegaManual.
 

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Opel Rallier since 1977
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I do believe this is a Motronic system.. based on the title! Is that still the case Gordo? (I have not followed every twist and turn of the lot here....)
 

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I do believe this is a Motronic system.. based on the title! Is that still the case Gordo? (I have not followed every twist and turn of the lot here....)
He posted this above which is why I brought up all the MSII stuff............."A year of more from now I'd like to try to substitute a modern Mass Air Flow meter, which will be much smaller and won't require a box. This will require switching to an aftermarket FI control system. So, I'll be looking for the most self-learning, easy to hook up, system that I can use with the Opel FI hardware. Food for thought for down the road...."
 

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RunOpel
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I like it Jeff, but you might cause Gordo to go into a frenzy :)
Gordo that engine is an absolute amazement 😇
 

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I wonder how often he pinches himself when he walks in there to make sure he's not dreaming LOL
Looks Great my friend keep dreaming and making it a reality
 
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