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Opeler
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573 Posts
Discussion Starter #21
Thanks Mark, this is the 2.4 block and head but I think the timing cover is from en earlier block CIH engine, maybe even the 1.9. I'll have to pay attention to that from gap and seal when the head gasket arrives. It does have the 2 from bolts in the timing cover.

On the oil pan gasket, do you use blue loctite at all? I've found these bolts to loosen over time so I'm thinking of using loctite on pretty much all the engine bolts. Thoughts?
 

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Detroit,where my home was
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2,925 Posts
Make sure if the loctite can handle the heat
 

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Opel Rallier since 1977
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2,130 Posts
Thanks Mark, this is the 2.4 block and head but I think the timing cover is from en earlier block CIH engine, maybe even the 1.9. I'll have to pay attention to that from gap and seal when the head gasket arrives. It does have the 2 from bolts in the timing cover.

On the oil pan gasket, do you use blue loctite at all? I've found these bolts to loosen over time so I'm thinking of using loctite on pretty much all the engine bolts. Thoughts?
Hey Mike, If that is the timing cover with the 2 bolts at the front, that is the later one (at least for the 1.9L) and so should sit flush with the deck of a 1.9L. (And AFAIK, the deck height is the same between all of these blocks.)

I have never used loctite on the pan bolts and never have them loosen. I actually smear that super thin coat of gasket sealer on the block (rather than on the block side of the pan gasket). This squeezes some gasket sealer into the pan gasket bolt holes in the block, and that is probably what keeps the bolts in place; I see a bit of the sealer come up on the end of the bolts as they come up through the block. And my bolts get washed in gasoline or other solvent to clean the threads of any old oil residue.

I personally would not use loctite on the timing cover bolts for fear of them holding int too tight and breaking later on. Those bolts have pretty thin shanks. Blue loctite goes on the rod bolts, flywheel bolts, the crank snout bolt for a damper, and the cam sprocket bolts. And perhaps the timing guide bolts. (I have used it on occasion main cap bolts in the past, but not with oil; I just use light oil or clean & dry anymore.)
 

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Registered
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2,054 Posts
I only use locktight on anything that you can't access once the engine is assembled and installed. So timing chain cover, water pump, and oil pan don't need it...

Things like the one bolt under the water pump, oil pump pick up tube, flywheel bolts, cam bolts etc... Definitely
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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14,838 Posts
I use blue Loktite on the fairly loose external bolts such as the oil pan, valve cover, timing, thermo housing, etc. I think that putting Loktite on high torque bolts inside the engine that are immersed in oil is probably pointless. The intake/exhaust-to-head bolts are subject to intense vibration from the exhaust and are slightly undertightened for their size due to the heat/cold expansion variance between the intake and exhaust. I put red Loktite on those. The intense vibration and heat the bolts/threads are subjected to prevents the Loktite from seizing the bolts. All it really does is gum up the threads to dissuade them from vibrating loose. Blue is almost useless on head/manifold bolts, it gets burned out of there pretty quickly. I actually don't use blue Loktite on my 2.4 valve cover bolts because they have the mushroom-and-tube inserts and I have T-handle bolts. You can tighten those bolts pretty tight and I have the handles all pointing in the same direction when fully tightened, so I can easily see if any are working loose. They never do.
 

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Opeler
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573 Posts
Discussion Starter #26
Gordo, I like your approach and son't see a reason not to use the blue loctite on the external bolts such as the oil pan. We use loctite on a lot of aircraft assemblies so why not on a car?

Mark, thanks for the advice as well. I think I will add that to the flywheel and clutch bolts as well.
 
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