[Jacobhojrup]

Hi Guys.

I have tried to start my gt after the winter, with no luck.
My setup is. 2.0 cih with Weber’s and electronic ignition from 2.0i with a flamethrower coil.
As for a start, it was running great before the winter. So, first off I thought it was the battery so I changed that.
It does get fuel as the acceleration nozzle does spit fuel.
But my ignition seems strange..! First off I did not get any spark so I changed the coil to the old one I had. And took the direct 12v wire off. Now I have spark but it seems like it is firing at all kinds of times. When I turn it over it seems like it’s firing before the tdc, as it “stops turning” or have a hard turn when it fires. Still no sign of starting.
I now though I had problems with my distributor so I changed it together with the ignition module. And it is still the same now.. no change.. I then heard like a clicking noice when turning with no plugs, a clicking that had same strange timing as my spark. So I tried to touch things while turning the engine, I got a shock from my distributor so there must be something wrong still there..
But I already changed, distributor, coil, ignition module - what else could be wrong? Do you guys have any suggestions?

Best regards from the Danish GT owner that just wants to have his first ride in the Easter sun.


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[opelbits]

Do you currently have electronic ignition or did you swap in points?

The 'clicking' may have been spark jumping to ground somewhere, like from the unattached plug wires or at the points (if you swapped back to them). The shock you got might have just been from touching the outside of the cap/wires. If those are true, they don't necessarily point to your issue.

 

[opellane]

Well sorry to hear your having starting problems after Hibernation time, Sometimes it's hard to wake a sleeeping Bear..LOL In my experience after Hibernation time, and a hard start.

If the motor cranks , and fires out the Carb, Back fire,, either the choke plate adjustment cam is not working or there a Vacuum Leak. Sometime after Hibernation , parts get a heatsink after long rides in the summer,
I would recheck the Carb heat shield not leaking and the intake manifold. ( use carb. spray or brake clean to locate vacuum leaks)
Nothing has changed since the last time you took a ride,, So I would say sound like something stupid

The First start up of my Opel Motor in Months.. We call this a Dry Start, or a Hard Start.

All the oil at the bottom crankcase sump, Pull the coil wire, and just crank the engine until you see movement of the oil psi gauge. re-attach coil wire, then your ready to fire up the engine with oil psi.

When you step on the gas petal to floor, choke plate closed and lock, if not needs attention

If you have spark, Gas (fuel) Ignition it should fire up ...Good Luck I hope that Help Some and Happy Easter

 

[First opel 1981]

Maybe a rodent chewed a wire. As said above, clicking could be spark jumping to ground.

 

[Timbo]

If you have spark, Gas (fuel) Ignition it should fire up ...Good Luck I hope that Help Some and Happy Easter

Famous last words.

 

[Jacobhojrup]

Thanks a lot for the advice.
I just had it running, but feeling on the manifold it was just on cylinder no. 1 and 3 and it seems like 2 and 4 have not had spark... checked the plug and seemd like at least one was not ok, so hope to have more luck with new ones tmrw it does still seem to fire a bit strange when looking at the spark, but as you say, could be a grounding issue - could this be due to a burned spark plug??


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[Jacobhojrup]

Turned the timing a bit backwards when it was running. But the grounding issue, how is that normally seen? Could it be a issued spark plug or what?


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[The Cub]

At this point I’d clamp a voltmeter on the 12v terminal of the ignition coil and check for voltage irregularities.
I had a similar experience when I was converting back to points from a failed electronic ignition module. I added an additional ground wire to the side of the distributor and that cured the crappy running engine, it was sputtering and running horribly. It ran fine after adding the additional ground wire. With the Crane XR-700 ignition module I’d been running for years the distributor ground wasn’t important because the ground to the module was what was important. I quickly found out how a poorly grounded distributor reacted once the ground was needed. I’m not sure what your exact ignition set up is, perhaps if you can post details, it will be a bit easier to help.

 

[Jacobhojrup]

My ignition setup is.
Electronic ignition from a 2.0 injection engine, the distributor is an original one with pickup and the vacuum part of the distributor deleted and I’m running the original ignition module also. So basically just all original except from the coil is a flamethrower 40kv.


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[Jacobhojrup]

I just tried measuring the plugs, they are definitely burned 3 of them. So I bought some new ones. But it still does not start. Hmmm.
Do you guys know what voltage should be on the coil with ignition on?


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[Jacobhojrup]

Finally found the issue... the distributor cap had connection between the wires so the spark was jumping around in there..
Changed it and It now runs and drives again

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[Will I. Finish]

Unrelated subject - just curiour, what is the object at the bottom of the picture closest to the drivers fender attached by two screws. Thanks...

 

[First opel 1981]

Unrelated subject - just curiour, what is the object at the bottom of the picture closest to the drivers fender attached by two screws. Thanks...

Looks like a fuel pressure regator.

 

[Jacobhojrup]

Yes, it’s a pressure regulator for the electric fuel pump to not give the Weber’s fuel pressure pulses.
Do you have any recommendations on spark plugs for a high compression cih?


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[First opel 1981]

Yes, it’s a pressure regulator for the electric fuel pump to not give the Weber’s fuel pressure pulses.
Do you have any recommendations on spark plugs for a high compression cih?


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The spark plugs I use on my high comp setup won't work for you but you want to get a hotter plug than recommended.

 

[Jacobhojrup]

Okay. How hot is recommended, 8?
Thanks for the advice btw.


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[Commodåren]

A high compression engine with higher combustion chamber temperatures needs colder plugs, not hotter. Try one step colder if the stock heat range plugs make the engine pre-ignite.

 

[wilderbry]

Hi Guys.

I have tried to start my gt after the winter, with no luck.
My setup is. 2.0 cih with Weber’s and electronic ignition from 2.0i with a flamethrower coil.
As for a start, it was running great before the winter. So, first off I thought it was the battery so I changed that.
It does get fuel as the acceleration nozzle does spit fuel.
But my ignition seems strange..! First off I did not get any spark so I changed the coil to the old one I had. And took the direct 12v wire off. Now I have spark but it seems like it is firing at all kinds of times. When I turn it over it seems like it’s firing before the tdc, as it “stops turning” or have a hard turn when it fires. Still no sign of starting.
I now though I had problems with my distributor so I changed it together with the ignition module. And it is still the same now.. no change.. I then heard like a clicking noice when turning with no plugs, a clicking that had same strange timing as my spark. So I tried to touch things while turning the engine, I got a shock from my distributor so there must be something wrong still there..
But I already changed, distributor, coil, ignition module - what else could be wrong? Do you guys have any suggestions?

Best regards from the Danish GT owner that just wants to have his first ride in the Easter sun.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hello,
If you have the Pertronix 1 or 2 and you leave the key on without the engine running for even one minute it will be fried and either not work at all or it will not work properly. Also a cracked distributor cap will act this way especially if it is wet or a very humid day. I have used the pertronix 1, 2, and 3 and BY FAR the best unit is the Pertronix 3 for the Opel GT it is part # 71847V and use Pertronix coil # 44011 both available from Amazon. You can leave the key on for days with the engine not running with the Pertronix 3 with no damage to the ignition, but would be hard on the coil, has an easily adjustible rev limiter, does NOT require the plastic ring on the rotor, you have to increase the plug gap slightly, you have to remove the clear resistor wire and run 12V to the ignition, and I have personally found the Pertronix 3 to fire best at low and high rpms with no change in the midrange. I also love the rev limiter when my boys drive the car !!

 

[Jacobhojrup]

Okay. I Will definitely consider that. I would also like a Rev limiter and a more precise spark.
I put the flamethrower back on, and it works good.
Haven’t had the ignition on for more than a minute for sure, cause I also have a fuel pump that doesn’t like to just run

What plug is good for a high comp engine?


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[Jacobhojrup]

I see that the colder the spark plug temp, the higher is the plug number. So would 8 be enough, should I run 9 or 10?


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