[whatwouldjessedo]

My GT was running great with a Weber 32/36, so of course I had to take on this new project of replacing it with a Steinmetz angled intake and a Dellorto DHLA 40 side draft.

I bought the intake on Ebay over a year ago, and I bought a pair of DHLAs, which are Weber DCOE workalike carbs. I'm going to sell off the second one once I rebuild it.

So far, things aren't going well as far as installation...

1) The OEM manifold bolts can't be used with the angled intake because it's impossible to get a wrench on two of the bolts because of the shape of the intake. I bought some hex head bolts from OGTS thinking those would be the answer, but it's still impossible to get a hex wrench in to turn the forward bolt on the rear runner. So... I don't know what to do about that... retap the head for SAE threads and use a flanged head bolt? Ugh.

2) Also, the intake is making contact with the #3 exhaust tube of teh OTGS stainless long header. I guess I'll have to bang on the header to make a little bit of clearance.

3) A velocity stack, air cleaner or air box won't clear the body sheetmetal where the heater hoses protrude. I'm going to have to cut into that area and reposition the heater hoses to make way for the velocity stacks.

4) I actually think I can make a linkage based on the MIDI KIT linkage that would work with this setup. I just need a MIDI KIT linkage, and OGTS is currently sold out.

Anyway, stay tuned as i try to sort out this mess. Any helpful info would be appreciated!

 

[Vincent]

Nice project! That will add a few ponies on top

 

[Manta Rallier]

With the hex head bolts, couldn't you cut the short end of an allen wrench shorter to perhaps fit? I have done that before in tight spots.

Here are some smaller headed 10 mm bolts... using a 14 wrench. And in my dual side draft installation, with a header, I had the same issue in the same spots, and just took a pair of standard Opel manifold bolts and ground/filed the flats down to be able to use a 13 mm box end wrench. Problem solved....

There have been English bolts for decades for tight header use with 3/8" heads so maybe there are some similarly smaller headed metric bolts.

 

[Knorm65]

A highly modified 15mm wrench will be your friend. Here’s the one required for my slightly different intakes. The box end is also shaved down to where it can barely tighten to the required torque without breaking

These manifolds don’t play nice with the OGTS header. Take the material off of the intake. You aren’t going to get a dent where you need it probably. The intakes have plenty of meat to grind of. I had to take about 1/16”- 1/8” off of a few spots on my midikit manifold.

I think your clearance issue with the airhorns will be solved when you get everything tightened into the right spot. I’ve never seen that much interference with that manifold.

 

[opelbits]

I'd be sorely tempted to drill an access hole in the backside of the intake runner, then thread it for a pipe plug and go thru the intake.

How are the motor mounts? Can they be shimmed upwards?

 

[whatwouldjessedo]

With the hex head bolts, couldn't you cut the short end of an allen wrench shorter to perhaps fit? I have done that before in tight spots.

Here are some smaller headed 10 mm bolts... using a 14 wrench. And in my dual side draft installation, with a header, I had the same issue in the same spots, and just took a pair of standard Opel manifold bolts and ground/filed the flats down to be able to use a 13 mm box end wrench. Problem solved....

There have been English bolts for decades for tight header use with 3/8" heads so maybe there are some similarly smaller headed metric bolts.

Yes, that could work, or I think I might be able to cut a 1/2" length off of the allen wrench to insert into the bolt head, then use a smaller open end wrench on the protruding stub of the allen. Sometimes I wonder how manifolds get designed without decent provisions for mounting them...

 

[The Scifi Guy]

This is my thread about the install of a Steinmetz SSD:

2.4 with an SSD and a 45DCOE

It's nearing the time for me to install the engine in my GTX car and, as usual, my original plans have changed. I have decided that the challenges of jetting my chromed 40DCOE on this slightly too large engine were beyond my patience level. I had contacted and ordered jets for the 40-on-a-2.4...

www.opelgt.com

I made a custom offset linkage rod and bracket with remotely mounted secondary pivot and linkage rod. There's a video of it in action.

I now know that I could have made a much easier and better functioning cable throttle set up that connects direct to your pedal with no mods using a 48" Lokar cable and these two types of ends:

Or one of these available ends:

You just have to make a cable stop bracket near the throttle, route the cable behind the motor, down behind/next to the starter, forward, then to a right angle bracket attached to existing holes on the motor mount tower:

I removed my heater box and installed an aftermarket heater, so I can't help you with what to do about that. Velocity stacks don't do schitt, I made an air box to a proper filter set up:

 

[The Scifi Guy]

As far as your clearance issue: Give the header a smack with a hammer or grind a little off of the intake.

 

[whatwouldjessedo]

I'd be sorely tempted to drill an access hole in the backside of the intake runner, then thread it for a pipe plug and go thru the intake.

How are the motor mounts? Can they be shimmed upwards?

The motor mounts aren't exactly new, but the motor is sitting at the correct angle. Unfortunately, these side drafts don't like sitting at any angle, they want to be flat, so I shouldn't consider rotating the engine upright from it's stock orientation. Otherwise, yes, that would definitely give me some space for velocity stacks.

 

[The Scifi Guy]

In regards to reaching the bolts: I use a series of different ball-end allen wrenches that I have cut down or modified to turn the allen bolts. I use hex heads on the 2 outer bolts and allens for the inner 4. I slip a 10mm speed wrench over the allens to turn them:

 

[whatwouldjessedo]

This is my thread about the install of a Steinmetz SSD:

2.4 with an SSD and a 45DCOE

It's nearing the time for me to install the engine in my GTX car and, as usual, my original plans have changed. I have decided that the challenges of jetting my chromed 40DCOE on this slightly too large engine were beyond my patience level. I had contacted and ordered jets for the 40-on-a-2.4...

www.opelgt.com

I made a custom offset linkage rod and bracket with remotely mounted secondary pivot and linkage rod. There's a video of it in action.

I now know that I could have made a much easier and better functioning cable throttle set up that connects direct to your pedal with no mods using a 48" Lokar cable and these two types of ends:



View attachment 430569

Or one of these available ends:

View attachment 430570

You just have to make a cable stop bracket near the throttle, route the cable behind the motor, down behind/next to the starter, forward, then to a right angle bracket attached to existing holes on the motor mount tower:

View attachment 430572

I removed my heater box and installed an aftermarket heater, so I can't help you with what to do about that. Velocity stacks don't do schitt, I made an air box to a proper filter set up:

View attachment 430573

I like the idea of running the cable under the motor. That would make all of the pull action in the correct direction, and the direct link between the pedal and carb is really nice. Thanks for that idea.

My idea with using the MIDI KIT linkage is to move the pivot bracket attached tot he firewall as far right as possible, then making a longer pivot rod to the carb. It would function the same as the MIDI KIT and stock linkage. By moving the pivot bracket to the far right, it nearly lines up with the carb throttle shaft, it would only be at a 2-3 degree angle, which the ball and cup can handle.

 

[RallyBob]

I’ve done the SAE bolt thing a few times. I make them with 3/8”- 16 ARP bolts, but this requires drilling and tapping for helicoil inserts. Best to remove the head to do this, it’s nearly impossible to keep things parallel and perpendicular doing it in the car.

The bonus is smaller 7/16” 12-point heads, which you can usually use a wrench on or 12-pt socket.

 

[The Scifi Guy]

Here is what I just wrote in your Facebook post:

Midikit linkage will not work on the Steinmetz. The carb is farther away from the firewall than a Midikit and the carb throttle is farther away from the engine, which causes the linkage from the firewal to go on an angle to try to reach the throttle, but it can't, the angle is too severe. I gave you instructions on the GT website on how to set up a much better cable throttle for the Steinmetz. I will be putting the Steinmetz and 45DCOE that I had on my previous 2.5 engine in my new gullwing GT and this time I will hook it up with cable throttle. Here's a video of the offset auxiliary pivot and linkage rod set up that CAN use the special Midikit throttle rod, although I still suggest the cable throttle idea:

https://youtu.be/FJpRVewJ4fQ

 

[opelbits]

The motor mounts aren't exactly new, but the motor is sitting at the correct angle. Unfortunately, these side drafts don't like sitting at any angle, they want to be flat, so I shouldn't consider rotating the engine upright from it's stock orientation. Otherwise, yes, that would definitely give me some space for velocity stacks.

My thought was if the mounts were sagging a little, new mounts would bring it up a little. If not sagging, then some shims on both mounts, that keeps the tilt side to side same as it was. Not sure how much you'd gain, though, probably not enough.

That eurocarb place has some pretty short airhorns listed. Down to 15mm, I think.
Eurocarb Ltd Dellorto Weber Carbs | eBay Stores

 

[whatwouldjessedo]

I got the DHLA installed enough to start it up and get an initial tune.

I clearance the #3 header tube with a few hammer blows. I used a 3/8" long piece of an allen wrech and an 8mm opene ned wrench to tighten the inner manifold bolts. That took forever and is pretty frustrating, but it worked. I don't yet have the throttle linkage hooked up, and the heater hoses are at this point can't be attached, but at least the car starts and runs.

 

[mark1]

Glad to hear you got the bolts tightened. I can't recall exactly what it did on the bolts when I had a Steinmetz installed. But I usually go for a JIT (small head) bolt in places that are tight. I may also have used a socket head.

Re. the linkage: I used a bunch of tiny u-joints and heims that were designed for RC applications; so the linkage was similar to the original rod linkage, but with an appropriate angle added. I'll attach a couple of pictures.

Along with the modified bracket on the firewall from OGTS.

I used a standard low profile air cleaner with no air horns:

But I may have had less clearance issues than you, because my heater core was leaking, and I've never really liked car heaters, so I cut off the two lines going to the heater.

 

[The Scifi Guy]

Nice job Mark!

 

[whatwouldjessedo]

So I finally was able to successfully drive my Opel with the sidedraft today. I took it for a drive last week, but the jetting and timing was nowhere near close and I struggled to get the car to go once around the block even though it seemed to be idling and running okay in my driveway.

Another package from England arrived today with more idle jets, pump jets and some mains. After experimenting a bit I ended up with #70 idle jets, #90 pump jets, #145 mains and #160 air correctors. I don't think this is final combination, I think the pumps might be a little big, and I think I'm running lean on the mains, so I have to play with it more, but tonight's test drive went pretty well. It was idling well and had smooth progression except when under load at around 3500rpm there is a stumble.

I also played around with the igintion timing and have so far landed at 8 degrees of advance, with the vacuum advance and without the vacuum retard.

I need to finish my throttle linkage, but so far it's mostly just the original linkage. I took some of the bend out of the rod that runs behind the engine to give it a little extra length. I made a new pivot bracket on the passenger side that pushes the pivot point up and to the right to give the best final angle to the carb as possible. My plan is to use one more ball-jointed rod to connect the pivot rod to the carb lever to make up for the angle.

I also need to make some clearance for an air box, which means relocating the heater hoses.

And since I disconnected the positive crankcase vent (the small hose that pulls manifold vacuum), the engine has been leaking oil, which it never did before. For this reason, I'm pretty sure I want to tap the intake runners for vacuum lines to return to a real PCV system.

I also finally got everything I needed to install the Manta radiator clutch fan so that was part of the test drive as well. It was definitely quieter on the freeway and really moves air at idle.

 

[whatwouldjessedo]

I’ve done the SAE bolt thing a few times. I make them with 3/8”- 16 ARP bolts, but this requires drilling and tapping for helicoil inserts. Best to remove the head to do this, it’s nearly impossible to keep things parallel and perpendicular doing it in the car.

The bonus is smaller 7/16” 12-point heads, which you can usually use a wrench on or 12-pt socket. View attachment 430579 View attachment 430580

I will definitely be copying this idea when it comes time to have the head work done. Those small head bolts would improve my life significantly.

 

[whatwouldjessedo]

I got more work done on this sidedraft install. I cut a couple inches out of the heater box and patched ina new panel so now there plenty of space for the carb. The heater hoses now meet the hard heater tubes up near the firewall.

As soon as I plugged the little hole in the valve cover the engine started blowing oil so I decided i needed to reinstate the vacuum venting of the crankcase so I drilled two vacuum ports in the Steinmetz manifols and used all 5/32" fittings to connect manifols vacuum to the valve cover:

And heres my version of throttle linkage. I uaed the original linkage, but made my own pivot bracket that moved the pivot at the firewall to carb corner very far right, and up about 3/4". With that change, the original linkage does fit up the carb, although at a definite angle. To deal with that angle, I made one more short ball link that connects the linkage pivot rod to the throttle lever. I welded a lever arm to the pivot rod at an angle that starts at an extreme anfle at idle and relaxes to a slight angle as throttle increases. Its hard to explain, maybe I'll make a video of it in action if anyone cares.

I've diven it about 50 miles so far and.its workind well. I'm still fine tuning it, but right now it starts within three tries on a cold morning (choke isn't yet hooked up) and it drives well enough around town and on the freeway.