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I have a 72 Opel GT that someone turned in to a drag car. It has a McPherson strut front end with only a lower arm on it. The spindles were originally four lug and had the hubs rewelded to five lug. I doubt if it is an original GT front suspension. But I was wondering if anyone can tell me what type of suspension come stock on the front of a GT? Or if you have a picture, that would help.....

Thanks,

Ed
 

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The front suspension looks great! I am in the process of replacing mine as well. All the parts are sand blasted and painted, all new tie rods, ball joints, and bushings, schocks etc. are here. Now for the question...My first thought was to assemble it as you have outside the car and install it as a whole. My better judgement tells me that with limited resources (a floor jack and jack stands) not to create a 200 pound monster to fight with but to drop the old suspension as a whole, but to install the new a piece at a time, starting with cross member, adding the rack and pinion, etc etc. Any tips or advice?
 

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Gordy, What I did to build mine was cheat a little bit. I didn't have the spring compressor built when mine was ready to go back together, so I assembled one side of the main crossmember, upper, lower control arms, spring and shock. Then manuvered the whole mess under the car and temporarily, loosely, bolted it in place. Then used the floor jack and a bottle jack to reposition the other side in place and bolted it all together. Then I dropped back out of the car, I still have a lot of painting to do in that area, and assembled the steering, spindles and brakes to the suspension outside the car. HTH.
 

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Gordy, here's the link for the spring compressor and a way to do it without it. I built the spring compressor, and it made the tear down, rebuild, a whole lot simpler. If you have access to a welder and can get the puller, (I found mine on Ebay), I'd go that route.The puller was the most expensive, but there are other sources around for them.
Ron, that suspension looks good. Jarrell
http://www.opelgt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3762&highlight=spring+compressor
 

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The puller I used (called a Heavy Duty Pitman Arm Puller) that Jarrell is referring to was $49.99 CAD (about $40 USD) from a mail order and hardware store here in Canada (Princess Auto, www.princessauto.com). It is part #806971. I was there last week and noticed that they now sell a slightly less robust puller (called an Adjustable Jaw Pulley Puller) that looks like it would work, and was only $21.99 CAD ($17 USD). It is part #2920143.

And if they sell it, it is probably available from other sources in the States.
 

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Jarrell, thanx for the good words on my front suspension. Except for the shocks, the whole thing was sand blasted, vapor blasted by me, then chemically treated and painted with POR-15 high gloss black. As long as the UV sun rays don't get to it, it should stay nice and shiney. One thing I did that others may try is to use the NEO watercraft grease, that comes with the poly bushings that OGTS has. It has a very high teflon content and very sticky. This is a trial to see if it will hold up on all the pivot points, steering rack and pinion, and the wheel bearings. It is really hard to remove after you get it on you, so hopefully, it will stay and lubricate everything on the front suspension. :rolleyes:
 

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Ron, I basically did the same thing with mine except I used 2 coats. One POR-15 and the last was Chassis black. For the steering rack I used the grease that Napa sells for front wheel drives. I got extra grease from OGTS and used it liberally on all the poly bushings and metal parts as instructed and have been very pleased with the results. I sandblasted mine, but what is vapor blasting? Thanks, Jarrell
 

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boomerang opeler
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jarrel thats too purdy to hide son get another and keep that for display:)
 

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namba209 said:
One thing I did that others may try is to use the NEO watercraft grease, that comes with the poly bushings that OGTS has. It has a very high teflon content and very sticky. This is a trial to see if it will hold up on all the pivot points, steering rack and pinion, and the wheel bearings.
Ron, I've tried the NEO watercraft grease in a rack and pinioin before, and absolutely hated it. It just about doubled the steering effort. Switched to Redline CV-1 and have only used synthetic grease for a steering rack ever since. Also, on those wheel bearings, better check the temp rating on that grease, don't know if it's suitable for a high load/high speed bearing. I have used it for poly bushings for about ten years though, it works nicely there.

Bob
 

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Bob, I appreciate the concern on using the NEO on the steering rack and the wheel bearings. One reason I said this would be a test for the product, I am also concerned that it may not work. But, I used it on the "O" rings on my motorhome holding tanks manifold because it is supposed to be non washable, and non melting. Previously I would use commercial grade "Vaseline" on "O" rings and it would melt away on relatively warm temps, so I tried Neo and it works great in that application. On the steering rack, I can turn the input coupling by hand, although not real easily, and the wheel hubs are kinda stiff also. The reason I used this grade NEO is because it is used primarily on boat trailers and off-road vehicles, which, arbitrarily, do get abusive use. I hadn't planned on using this until after I read the label on the container. If all the uses and advantages are true or close to it, I should be o.k., if not cleaning and a different lubricant will be an easy change out. I don't dispute what you experienced with it is true, and I don't know if you were in a racing or DD environment. But I will find out soon, I hope. And again, thanx for the input, your expertise is always appreciated.
 
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