rad support?
Isn't there a VIN stamped into the radiator support sheet metal as well. It's not on a label plate, but it should be the correct VIN for the car.
There is supposed to be another VIN stamped into the sheet metal somewhere in the rear of the car, but I don't know exactly where. I thought it was on one of the tabs one of the tail light screws goes through, but I could be wrong. The DMV should have a reference book with the locations.
If you can find any VIN on the car, you can usually petition the state to make you a new vin plate. It may have it's own #, but the title on file will reference your origional VIN. Some guys used to do that with their "race only" muscle cars so the insurance company wouldn't get the origional VIN and charge them the really high rates.
Another option would be the "rebuilder" title option. Since rebuilt cars are usually a compilation of many parts cars, there may be as few as none or as many as 5 or 6 VIN's on the completed car. The state will usually send an inspector to write down the locations and #'s of any identification #'s on the car, and then they will issue you a new VIN attached to a title referencing all the #'s.
You do NOT want to try to title the car as home-made because it will usually have to pass current emissions and safety standards. This was a huge PITA with both of my kit cars and all 3 trikes I built.
The last "option," one I do not condone due to the legalities involved, is to install the VIN plates from a junked car with a clear title. While it is not strictly legal, depending on how much of the doner car you end-up using, it might justify a "rebuilder" title. After all, if you put the drivers door and dash from Car A on Car B, which VIN would you really use for registering the car? Strictly speaking it is still Car B, but the easy to find VIN's both are for Car A. It is also against the law to even posses a VIN plate not attached to a car, so try something like this completely at your own risk and against my urging.