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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I went and purchased the short block off the classifieds.

Need a few pointers in putting it together the first time!!!

1. Since the block is new there is no Head Guide pins on engine deck or flywheel timing needle. Are those items I can pick up anywhere?

2. the drive shaft cam gear off the old motor, is that something I need a pulley to remove or should I get new gear? Oil drive gear already off.

3. Looks like this block has 2 extra holes, that are open to the oil pan area, on the starter side near the engine mount brackets. Are those for a dip stick? Since my oil pan has the dip stick can I plug them? and whats the best way?

4. general preping. Oil/lube, cleaning, paint?
 

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Detritus Maximus
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1- Not sure on this one. OGTS supplies them, I believe.

2- 'drive shaft cam gear'? Cam gear should come off without a puller. Crank shaft pulley would need one. You could hammer, but your likely to crack the iron pulleys or bend the stamped steel ones.

3- The holes are relevant to the pan and dipstick you use. I don't recommend the 'right side dipstick' pans. Not in the GT, you'll be reaching past the carb and manifolds. (Had that in my old GT, really sucks. And hurts.) Plugs are cheap and available from OGTS.

4- Mineral spirits or laquer thinner will clean dirt off the outside of the block. Follow that with a degreaser for autobody work. Use a good quality engine paint (Eastwood Co. has good stuff). When you go to start the motor, remove the little square head plug above the oil pump and fiil the hole with motor oil. This primes the pump (if you don't do this, you will not pump oil and will damage the motor). Get a long cheap screwdriver and cut the handle off, put it in a drill, remove distributor and valve cover), stick screwdriver down to oil pump drive slot and spin it (correct rotation please!) until you have oil at the top of the motor (valvetrain). this pre-lubes the engine before start-up.
Do not use synthetic oil for the first couple thousand miles. Straight 30 weight seems to be the oil of choice. Newer formula oils are too good and old type engines can actually fail to break-in because of this.

I'm sure there is much morefor others to say......
 

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Opel Key Master
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Engine prep

The two holes in the block should be plugged with plastic plugs. Always use a puller to pull the crank shaft gear off. I have the two timing chain gears for sale on Ebay, if you needed two plugs I can throw them in with it if you win and want them. GT source has the dowel pins for the top of the block, last I checked $2.00 a piece or something close to that. Spend more time on your timing chain cover and oiling system. You will be very greatful if you do. Find a cover with the least scouring in the oil pump as possible.
Keith
 

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1. The flywheel pointer is likely broken off. I'd use this opportunity to eliminate the flywheel as the timing mark, and instead mark the front crank pulley. Use a dial indicator to establish TDC, and then make a notch on the crank pulley. You can even lay the pulley on a degree wheel later on and mark the whole range....from 0-40 degrees or so.

The dowel pins that locate the head are metric....10mm dia. x 20 mm long. Not a common item, but it could be OGTS has them. If not, I still have some laying around.

2. Ditto Opelbit's reply, it should come off relatively easily

3. There are three possible dipstick locations for US cars. Kadetts use an aluminum pan with the dipstick inserting into the pan at the right rear of the engine. The aluminum pans used on other Opel models have their own dipstick tubes made into the pan, and these are on the driver's side of the engine, in front of the starter. The later steel oil pans used the dipstick hole in the block, just in front of the engine mount bracket. The forward block hole was a dipstick hole for front-sump engines used on Opel models not imported here. Later 2.2 and 2.4 litre engines usually use the front sump, and they must be converted for use in our US Opels. Based on this, I'd guess OGTS has the proper plastic plugs for these holes. If not, you can always tap it and use a pipe plug like I do.

4. Brake cleaner solvent works good for final cleaning before paint. Paint type is your option......

If the engine sat for a long time, I'd consider pulling the rod and main caps and checking the bearings, and after cleaning them I'd use something like Sealed Power engine lube. Thick as hell, won't drip and run off. Great for startup. It was still on my own shortblock I recently unwrapped after 6 years of storage, so I trust it implicitly. Regular engine oil will not stay in place for long.
Priming the pump as mentioned above is a good idea. I personally pack the pump gears with synthetic grease. Less wear and tear on the gears/housing during startup, and it quickly dissolves into the base oil once the engine is fired. I also use 10w-30 mineral oil (Castrol typically) for the break-in.

Bob
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Okay I think I have all the extra HOLES figured out.

There is one passage to the coolant for the EFI Nipple that I need to plug. I did what u suggested and checked with OGTS. They seem to have all pieces parts in stock except the EFI passage plug. Thing is pretty damn big same/thread as the plug on the end of the Oil Pump cover.

NOS engine for sitting over 15 years is in great shape. there is some surface rust here and there were the cardboard socked up the lubricant. but nothing like I would have expected. The white thick goop on the piston was still there no blemishes at all. internal passage are clean, looks brand new, well because it is.

I was thinking about removing the caps and checking the bearings but thought it would cause more problems than good? If they end cap is sealed good I thought it might end up leaking? so u think since it is in such good shape ie not corroded or rusty that the bearings should also be as good if not better???

I cant seem to find the gears on ebay? I was only concerned bc of how hard the botttom gear is stuck to the shaft. My luck I will end up busting or bending a tooth! they look like they are in pretty good shape. Are those new gears u r auctioning off?

I want to get the oil pump end cap and gasket!!! By looking into the pump with gears out it looks like I have no rough spots. But I am concerned since this cover is comming off a motor that had a rod bearing melt onto the crank!

I want to get a few pics too. Might help to decide on what things to replace or leave as is.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Okay now onto timing. I like the pulley idea. I would need to place a stationary mark on the block. What/where?

Does anyone have a pic of this or idea?

Who has a dial indicator to establish TDC I could borrow for a week. I need a week just to figure out how to use it. :) I understand getting true TDC is a calcualtion between BTDC and ATDC. then position the pulley corrrectly with the block point.

And then of course I wanted to mill the head. which will now change the cam degree.

Only other slight mod is a cam that is ground like the combo cam on OGTS. Anyone have such a cam/lifters that is not doing anyhting they would like part with??

thanks again
Kel
 

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doogank said:
Okay now onto timing. I like the pulley idea. I would need to place a stationary mark on the block. What/where?
There are already marks on the timing cover, below the distributor area. Use the largest mark as your 'zero' mark, and then notch the pulley itself to line up with the timing cover mark when cyl #1 is at TDC. Then you can mark the pulley every 5 degrees for easy-to-read engine timing, and you don't even need a dial-type timing light.
 
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