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Opeler
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You probably already removed engine ground strap and bolts.
Looks like you might slide header forward. Forward opening looks larger in your picture.
I would drain and remove radiator, and remove fan shroud.
 

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Detritus Maximus
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2,940 Posts
Loosen motor mount bolts on both sides, might give you the ability to wiggle the motor over and give you the needed space to get it in.

You want to know real headache. Try putting a Mopar B body 74' Road Runner left side small block header into a 73' Dodge Dart with power steering. That my friend is what nightmares are made of.
I'm confused as to what caused the headache? The header or the fact they were Mopars...?
 

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Detritus Maximus
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Probably the fact that they were designed for a B body and were being stuffed into an A body....steering column!
Yeah, but for drag racing you don't need to turn, so a steering column is needless weight!
 
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You're right... just bend it out of the way! Why didn't I think of that? LOL
Was it the early model Pontiac Tempest that had the cable steering column? I know someone in that time period did!

Just saying: Nothing is New!

Doug

Nope, it was the drive shaft that was called "rope drive": AT - 5/8" Dia and 87" long, MT 3/4" dia and 84" long!

But why not the steering column (5/8" diameter would probably fit)!: ....lmao:
 

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Bingo!
11 hours for me and a friend to figure out how to shoe horn the SOB in there. Note, it CAN be done.
Had someone install headers for me in an A body with no power steering. It was tight and they were the correct headers for the car. As I recall the driver side was a two piece design so it could fit around the torsion bar. Couldn't change starters without taking the header loose for clearance. Leaked antifreeze every time that was done. Rear most stud snapped and was replaced with a bolt that went into the water jacket. Your's had to have been a nightmare!

Harold
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
well today the weather was a little nicer so I got back to the Opel.

I lifted the engine, and moved it to the driver side a little and the header drop in place!
I have the engine mount heat shield back on, but the lower heat shield there is no way to get that on with the header.

I've attached some pictures.


Thanx everyone for the help.
 

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Opeler
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Had someone install headers for me in an A body with no power steering. It was tight and they were the correct headers for the car. As I recall the driver side was a two piece design so it could fit around the torsion bar. Couldn't change starters without taking the header loose for clearance. Leaked antifreeze every time that was done. Rear most stud snapped and was replaced with a bolt that went into the water jacket. Your's had to have been a nightmare!

Harold
The B body headers were Headman, single piece for both sides, but were listed on their web site as fitting the A bodies. And they do fit, just have to about disassemble the front of the car to squeeze them in. Had to take steering links apart to fish that threw after you get the header kinda in position with the motor mounts unbolted and the engine tipped way to the passenger side and pulled up some, a few dings here and there with the ball peen hammer and a mini starter solved the starter clearance issue, oh changing the oil, THATS still a bit of a pain in the ass I didn't switch to the 90 degree set up. Yeah, I will not enjoy the day I have to take that all apart to swap to the big block 516CI stroker engine.
 

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Opel Rallier since 1977
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well today the weather was a little nicer so I got back to the Opel.

I lifted the engine, and moved it to the driver side a little and the header drop in place!
I have the engine mount heat shield back on, but the lower heat shield there is no way to get that on with the header.

I've attached some pictures.


Thanx everyone for the help.
That is good news! I was hoping this was coming along. Try to get some sort of heat shield in..... even a piece of AL cut in inserted wil help the life of the mount.
 

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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
That is good news! I was hoping this was coming along. Try to get some sort of heat shield in..... even a piece of AL cut in inserted wil help the life of the mount.
the one on the engine mount is back on, the larger one at the bottom against the side wall can't fit now. I'm not sure what that one was protecting as I think it's the car body there?
 

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Opeler
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Aren't those headers coated in JetHot Coating or some sort of ceramic coating? If so, that in and of itself will GREATLY reduce heat transfer from the header to anything else. If not, then you best find a way to get a heat shield in there.
 

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How you are suppose to remove those 6 downpipe bolts? I can get 3 of them, but other three are impossible to reach. Luckily they are not rusted, but what is the factory method, some special socket extension? in my mind, only way to do it, is support the engine and remove the crossmember.
 

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Use a Long extension 15" and 13mm swivel Socket, to break loose, Then use a 1/4 drive same setup to run the bolts out.. I decided to replace the bolts with socket head type bolts, easier to plug the bolts into the allen socket to hold them while installing and tightening the bolts,, Use a torque wrench to tighten to spec. try not to over tighten, and re-check bolt torque after the 1 st road test... Heat sink can loosen head pipe bolts.
 
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Ok, good to know that removing the cross member is not mandatory, it's a lot of hassle so I'm gonna try to avoid that. Guess I just have to try again and bit harder this time. Thanks.
 

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Finally received my new stainless exhaust and got it fitted. Those swivel sockets did the job, although I had to replace one of the bolts with allen bolt, there was no room for the original bolt.
 
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