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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
. Still having starter issues. Is there a part # I can buy at my local parts store for a solenoid for the new starters available for 71 gt 1.9. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
My Mechanic says yes. I'll have to get my Son inlaw to check for me.. Do you know the Minimum amps needed compared to the old starter? Old starter works fine. My Battery in new & very big. Ignition is new & I have a push button bypass start as well.
 

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. Still having starter issues. Is there a part # I can buy at my local parts store for a solenoid for the new starters available for 71 gt 1.9. Thanks
German made John Deere tractors have a similar looking solenoid. I think the tractor was a 2030.

Harold
 

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Should be the same as: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=42797&cc=1289145&jsn=674

Fits a lot of BMWS, Volvos and Specifically the:

SAAB 900 2.5L 1994-1997
SAAB 9000 9-5 3.0L V6 1999-2003

I bought the one for the SAAB to replace a bad one I had on a used 2.4L starter I had.

Which if memory serves is the same motor as the Catera

I have used a Catera starter, it requires a bit of modification and sticks the flywheel but it works as my bench starter.
 
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Presume most Owners purchased starter from Opel GT Source.
I would email OPGTS or telephone for information.

Not the answer that you are looking for, but eventually I will switch back to a Ford solenoid for OEM starter.
I should have cables and solenoid from one of my previous GT. Does require different battery cables.
Find a heavy duty solenoid that is NOT Made in China.

installing a remote ford solenoid/ chevy starter | Grumpys Performance Garage
MAD Catalog
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks for the alternatives and advice on the new starter issues. Keep them coming please.
 

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Can Opeler
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I just had my second solenoid fail on two different GTs with the OGTS starter. I confirmed it was the solenoid on the bench today. It just clicks and sometimes engages for a second. This starter has clicked from day one. I don’t really want another replacement starter from OGTS because it will just break again.
Has anyone tried a different solenoid on the OGTS starter since the last post? Charles mentioned the catera solenoid to me, but I’m not sure which part number.


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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Is your battery up front or in the back somewhere? Have your tested the voltage from the ignition? Having same issues. Had it taken apart and they said I'm either not getting enough juice from the battery or from the ignition. Had the starter repaired. I've gone from 4 guage to 1 guage from the back and replacing some of the other ignition wiring with thicker wire and soldering, not just crimping. did find a poor connection and was only getting alittle over 10 volts from ignition. Not finished yet though. Good luck.
 

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Can Opeler
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Is your battery up front or in the back somewhere? Have your tested the voltage from the ignition? Having same issues. Had it taken apart and they said I'm either not getting enough juice from the battery or from the ignition. Had the starter repaired. I've gone from 4 guage to 1 guage from the back and replacing some of the other ignition wiring with thicker wire and soldering, not just crimping. did find a poor connection and was only getting alittle over 10 volts from ignition. Not finished yet though. Good luck.
It’s not a voltage problem on mine. I tested my starter directly on the bench with a good battery and it did the same thing as in the car.
I have a couple original starters that worked fine on the bench today. I would put one of them in the car, but if I remember right they had trouble when the car was hot.


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It’s not a voltage problem on mine. I tested my starter directly on the bench with a good battery and it did the same thing as in the car.
I have a couple original starters that worked fine on the bench today. I would put one of them in the car, but if I remember right they had trouble when the car was hot.


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NOW the solenoid is bad. I THINK what Dale is saying is that if you don’t get enough juice to the starter when it’s new the solenoid immediately begins arcing internally and it’s just a matter of time until it fails completely. Once that happens, it’s too late.
 

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Here are some photos I have of a solenoid cut open to show what it looks like. This was from Steve's starter.
Gary had a part number for a replacement. I do not have it but maybe the one GoinManta posted.
HTH
John
 

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Can Opeler
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Can anyone confirm that the solenoids from the 2.4 will fit the new ones from OGTS ?
I will try one tomorrow if I can find one at autozone.


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The starter solenoid on the Opel (and a lot of cars) is a two function device.
The first function is to engage the starter gear to the flywheel. The second function is to apply the voltage to the starter brushes which, of course, engages the armature and spins the starter.

There's a small problem that happened with this dual function device, early on, that Ford decided to bypass.
On a Ford system (of the same era as the Opels we drive) used a different system to engage the starter gear to the flywheel and a separate device to apply the voltage to the brushes. This system is actually a better system as the juice that spins the starter doesn't get affected by juice trying to engage a gear.

Moreover, the (I will call it GM system) is flawed as the solenoid has to engage the gear before the contact is made in the solenoid to apply power to the starter. So, as gunk gets built up inside the solenoid housing, the system becomes less responsive. Sometimes you will get situations where the gear engages but the contact isn't made. I think that's what's going on with these solenoids. It's possible that one could take apart the solenoid and add a spacer to the solenoid contacts to push them further to the other contacts. This would engage the brushes a little earlier and help prevent the arc problem that causes solenoids to go bad. Also, the choice in material for the contacts might be an issue as some alloys are more prone to arcing than others. Less expensive, of course, materials will probably wear out faster.

In the ford system, the solenoid being a completely separate component, also removes the solenoid from the engine heat. Engine heat means the starter solenoid "feels" a change from ambient temperature to temps regularly reaching the 200 degree range. This creates additional wear on the components as copper is a very expansive material. On the Ford system the solenoid rarely sees temps over 120 degrees unless the location is changed from a factory one.

Where is all this going?

If one adds a mod to use a Ford solenoid to control the starter load and then the GM system solenoid for the bendix operation, a lot of problems could be overcome. I did this the first time back in 1983 and ran that car that way til I sold it. It ended the warm start issue which had plagued that car from the first time I got it to run.

I will try to remember how it's done in case anyone decides to do the mod. Otherwise, one could also run a dual solenoid.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Eh First Opel. The ford solenoid idea was suggested to me by a Machanic I know as well. Good quality info,thanks . If anyone is able to draw a schematic For electrical dummies like me to do this , this could be a great permanent fix.
 

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Your wish is my command.


Here is the original GM solenoid setup.




And here's the modification.





What is not shown in the drawings is the positive power supply to the main car. You will need to hook this up to the supply from the battery if that's how your car is set up. So, in the GM version it might be the top lug on the starter. If it is, then it would need to be transferred over to the left lug on the Ford Solenoid.

HTH
 

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