New Weber inbound

6148 Views 45 Replies 14 Participants Last post by Paul, Aug 19, 2009

bozkm

Discussion Starter · Jun 8, 2004 (Edited)

New Weber Installed..Questions

OK, UPS shows my new Weber to be delivered today! Can't wait to get home. Anything special I should think of, or need to buy? Is it as easy as unbolting the old carb, and bolting in the new?..then the normal adjustments of course.

Also, do I have to hookup the electric choke now, or can it wait? I remembered a post which says to hook it up to the wire going to the horn.

21 - 40 of 46 Posts

rallye73

· #21 · Jun 11, 2004

bozkm said:
If I put my hand over the carb, it runs fine, nice and smooth..take the hand away, it starts to "no want to run" even at 1500 rpms.

My initial reaction is it is running lean. Whether from a vacuum leak or not I can't say from here. Have you tried any of the tricks to check for a vacuum leak yet?

bozkm said:
For the spacer, yes they sent me about a 1/4 inch black plastic spacer..is this not needed??

If its a spacer that looks like it goes below the carb, then no, it is not "needed". But I would use it since it helps isolate the carb from the heat of the intake/exhaust manifold and may help low end torque some.

Darrin

bozkm

Discussion Starter · #22 · Jun 11, 2004

Well, just got in..I think I got it figured out...timing. While I had it running like crud about 2000 rpms (only way to keep it running), I loosened the distributer and started turning it. Well it finally came to. I don't have a timing light, so I had to do it by ear. I got it idling real nice around 900 rpms..it has a few low tone pops to it every now and then, and it'll pop sometimes when you rev it up..but not bad. It may even be the hole in my resenator...so here's my next problem...I put the adapter on for the air cleaner, and guess what..the darn hood doesn't close..by a good half and inch..so removing the spacer doesn't help. what is to be modified in order for the stock snorkle to fit...I guess it would've been nice if they included directions....

Thanks.

GoinManta

· #23 · Jun 11, 2004

Some cut the bottom of the snorkle flange and trim the solex adapter flange. Some have even designed a hold down, etc... Hopefully someone will come to the rescue soon. Being a Manta person I am not familiar with excatly how it is fixed. But it can be.

That adapter works on the earlier intakes, but the later intakes are taller. Which for performance issues is better, but for clearance issues is a problem on the GT.

Charles

GTJIM (R.I.P.)

· #24 · Jun 11, 2004

Taller

There are two adaptors one with a wee "W" cast on it is a bit taller but the shorter one interferes with the choke so ....

The snorkel can be modified slightly to shorten it by removing the clamp and reducing the length of the bit that goes on to the adaptor then replacing the clamp. There are threads here explaining it all but I will leave that up to you to find. Try "Air Cleaner" or "carb adaptor" in the search function.

bozkm

Discussion Starter · #25 · Jun 11, 2004

Yes, searched and read all last night on a few subjects. I think I got the mod for the air cleaner down...now still working on this idle thing. After taking the car for a ride last night...ran awesome, just started not idling again. Tried to play with the idle mixture again with no luck. I read one post that said if you can bottom out this screw and the engine still runs fine (which it does) definite vacuum leak. So my job this weekend will be to remove carb, and hopefully intake (how hard is this), and reseal. This is what I've gathered from the posts I've read.

Gil has a gasket sequence which goes small gasket, Heat Shield, large gasket carb. My carb has a spacer, which isn't mentioned above. Do I remove spacer? People say not to use the weber supplied gaskets..I did. So I'm going to try to find Felpro Pinto gaskets which I've seen will work. What do I use for the "small gasket"??

Heat shield, I currently removed, but am going to replace since I experienced "gurgling" after the engine was off (sound like gas boiling). Reason I didn't use it to begin with, is the holes in the heat shield didn't match perfect with the carb (mainly on the secondary throat, since its bigger)..I thought I might have butterfly issues. Do people modify the heat shield holes??

Hopefully this will fix my issues..fun, fun, fun..thanks for the help.

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tekenaar

· #26 · Jun 11, 2004 (Edited)

Carb sealers . . . NOT!!

GoinManta said:
One word.. Vacuum Leak.

Look for all the fittings and make sure ones not unplugged. Especially the one on the manifold behind the carb between the carb and the head.

What I have done to get a good seal is this combination:

1 - 1/8" Thick "fluffy" Paper Gasket
1b - Indian Head Shellac or Aircraft assembly glue (both at local auto stores)
2 - 1/4" Thick Felpro gasket with the nylon washers (Pinto gasket)
2b - Indian Head Shellac or Aircraft assembly glue (both at local auto stores)
3 - 1/8" Thick "fluffy" Paper Gasket

Those that only use the thin gaskets don't have enough material to get a good seal if you should have a slighty unsquare Weber bottom or intake face.

The thick Ford gasket, has those nylon washers that can keep you from tightening good enough for a perfect seal.

Using the three in combination give you a real tight seal and enough material to lock down the nuts and never have to worry again.

. . . . So be sure to check thier tightness every so often and you may want to use a little low strength lock-tite.

What about NO is not understood!!!

Reasons, complete with pics (8th post), already addressed in another 32/36 thread here!

GoinManta

· #27 · Jun 11, 2004

tekenaar said:
What about NO is not understood!!!

Reasons, complete with pics, already addressed in another 32/36 thread here!

Hmm... someone using too much? I have NEVER had a problem. Indian head works great.

But too much of a good thing can be a bad thing.

Also I glue the assembly together and let it get really tacky and use it in a very very thin application to both sides of the gaskets.

I have used the thin weber/Pinto/thin weber combination on 6 cars, none have had a problem nor did they have a vaccum leak or thier carbs come loose. Also the thick pinto gasket provides a thermal buffer for the carb.

What the link "with pictures". Just curious to see what the person did.

Charles

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Travis

· #28 · Jun 11, 2004

tekenaar said:
What about NO is not understood!!!

Reasons, complete with pics, already addressed in another 32/36 thread here!

Charles does have the right to voice his opinion here, even if it's different than yours. Chill out!!

-Travis

GoinManta

· #29 · Jun 11, 2004

Otto, I can't find any posts you mentioned.

jerseyopel

· #30 · Jun 11, 2004

carb

It was a week ago posted by bosco, otto shows a picture of the underside of the carb. Decaf anyone??

tekenaar

· #31 · Jun 11, 2004

Post update

GoinManta said:
Otto, I can't find any posts you mentioned.

Updated previous post in this thread with link.

tekenaar

· #32 · Jun 11, 2004

(_)? (_)? (_)?

jerseyopel said:
It was a week ago posted by bosco, otto shows a picture of the underside of the carb. Decaf anyone??

3 cups . . . Hmmmm, THAT ought to do it!

bozkm

Discussion Starter · #33 · Jun 11, 2004

When I said "reseal", I didn't mean I was using sealant...I was going to replace the Weber gaskets with a flepro one from a Pinto. I was goinig to use sealant on the intake manifold to head, if possible. So my question is really about the spacer and the heat shield.

If gasket sequence it small gasket, heat shield, large gasket, carb, do I need the 1/4" or so spacer provided in my kit...and will the weber gaskets be "sufficient" for the small gasket part.

And, does the heat shield need to be modified, since it seems to be a touch smaller than the carb throats.

Thanks,.

GoinManta

· #34 · Jun 11, 2004

Ahh... I see the problem.

Notice:

Carb - fluffy gasket - indian head - pinto gasket - indian head - fluffy gasket.

I use the sealer between the gaskets and not ON the carb.

1) Apply very thin so its transparent (Indian Head has the consistancy of sticky shoe polish)

2) Indian head drys' fast and hard, its not "gooey" like silicone or permatex.

3) Allow the gasket combo to dry before installing.

This gives a nice thick gasket that seals on both sides and gives the larger thermo break.

Usually at worse if the sealer squeezes out, is just barely noticable. and then drys hard virtually instantly.

As for the heat sheild, using the pinto gasket you can loose it. I have a 2.0L with a 40DGAV and no heat problems.

Charles

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bozkm

Discussion Starter · #35 · Jun 11, 2004

Well, looks like I won't be able to fix the carb this weekend, all the auto stores have to special order that Felpro Pinto gasket.....

GoinManta

· #36 · Jun 11, 2004

Go to an Advance Auto if you have one, they can usually get anything in 24 hours.

Charles

bozkm

Discussion Starter · #37 · Jun 11, 2004 (Edited by Moderator)

I think I have found the problem. After calling Dennis at OGTS to see about ording gaskets, I explained the problem I was having. He mentioned something about an idle solinoid....which, he explained, I have..and additional electrical outlet, next to the electric choke. I guess I was sent a California Smog legal carb. Since I didn't have 12 volts going to this, he said it would not idle, hard to start, etc. He is now sending me a normal jet holder to replace this with. In the meantime this weekend, I will try to hook up that to 12volts of power, and see (hope) it clears it up.

tekenaar

· #38 · Jun 11, 2004

ICO solenoid.

bozkm said:
I think I have found the problem. After calling Dennis at OGTS to see about ording gaskets, I explained the problem I was having. He mentioned something about an idle silinoid....what he explained, I have..and additional electrical outlet, next to the electric choke. I guess I was sent a California Smog legal carb. Since I didn't have 12 volts going to this, he said it would not idle, hard to start, etc. He is now sending me a normal jet holder to replace this with. In the meantime this weekend, I will try to hook up that to 12volts of power, and see (hope) it clears it up.

That would be the ICO (Idle Cut Off) solenoid. That solenoid cuts off the idle circuit in the primary COMPLETELY if it has no "switched 12V" (ignition on). Was originally done as a smog device to prevent engine "run-on" (dieseling).

bozkm

Discussion Starter · #39 · Jun 11, 2004

Good..I'm hoping that hooking it up will fix it until I get the jet holder from OGTS. Will hook it up to the horn along with the choke as I've seen in other posts.

Now guys, talk to me about the heat shield..do I have to cut it out (the holes), or will it work as is and not interfere with the butterflies?

baz

· #40 · Jun 11, 2004 (Edited by Moderator)

http://opelgt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3843

this is the thread otto was on about and i have to agree again
" fix the problem, don't treat the symptoms "

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