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4ZUA787
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hey all my car jus got back from gettin painted check out the pics once they are admin approved in the members photos.
 

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That's one heck of a transformation! Did you do the body work and then have someone shoot it, or did you do it all?

Nice job.:D
 

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4ZUA787
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
the stripe only cost me 200 and that included everything paint layout extra. i did all the body work the only thing i didnt do wus were i did some smoothing on some parts i could get all the rippels out so i had the paint guy smooth it but thats included in the 1000 bucks. i wus also told that getting the stripe painted wus cheaper then getting it done in vinyl although if u do have it done in vinyl u could remove it at a later time if u ever wanted to. the main part that led for it to be so cheap wus i did all the pre sanding and then i primered it with a specail primer then re-sanded it. that took about 300 or so dollars off the price tag.
 

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4ZUA787
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
i wus also looking at it today and i notcied that u cant even tell that those little seems that run down from the back window were ever there its smooth as can be and looks like it wus made that way. also anthor qustion i wus starting to put the lights back on today and i bought all new seals from ogts but when i went to put the front running lights in the skinny long ones i found that the seal thats made for the lens to the housing fits better inbetweent he housing and the body but then i tried both types of seals for the lens to the housing and both seals are very obivusly noticable since they dont fit flush the smoosh out sort of any one else have this problem????
 

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while we're on the topic, I am hoping to paint my opel over christmas break, I am using acrylic enamel. I am using a mid-range reducer (80º repair, 60º-75º overall) lately the temperature has been about 5ºF. at night and the shop is about 40º, I may be able to get it to 50º. should I try painting? im using a wet lool catalist. should I try to find a lower temp reducer? whats the worst that could happen? also its not getting a clear coat.
 

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4ZUA787
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
well i dont no much about the paint propertys so i wouldnt be able to tell u the results of the tempature the only thing that would come to mind would be the curing time but thats jus a guess.....anyone else no the what would be the actuall outcome.
 

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i know if it drys too fast it wont settle and will come out rough or severe orangepeel.
 

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does any one know what could happen if I paint and its not warm enough?
 

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yes painting at lower temp can will cause the paint to dry alot slower usually causeing more runs in the paint. this is speaking from 11 years doing paint and body work. what i found to work good is to get the shop as warm as possible while painting then let it slowly cool as it dries the paint or clear seems to flow out smoother with less orange peel. hope this helps good luck
but i have seen people paint under similar conditions and turn out extremly nice work it all really depends on your skill with the paint and equipment used
 

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Jordan-

Oh yes, more prone to runs... big, wide, flowing, runny runs. The tack coat (& following cover coats) don't get sticky fast enough to stay where you put them... before gravity starts taking over. Match your temp and reducer as close as possible. I've made this error... it was not pretty.

Before spraying, don't forget to wet the floor, and run a ground wire from body to Earth (the car body, silly!)

-Dan

Edit/add -> funny... I thought pvcar already had great paint... went to album after I posted to check out the new paint. Dohhhh!- old post :eek:
 

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is that with clearcoat? I'm still thinking wether to use vinyl or paint for stripes on my car, because, I won't be using clear, and don't want to have edges on the stripes... not sure if theres a trick for avoidning this. :confused:
 

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single stage enamel stripe

Sven-
after the stripe paint has cured, you can CAREFULLY (not too much!) wet-sand/buff away the high-broken edges of masking line. End result is a very smooth transition between the two levels of paint. A thin, hand-brushed pinstripe floating that broken edge is a nice finishing touch.
-Dan
 

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good idea, i'll try that, thanks! btw.. i'll add the thin stripes on the side, but i don't think my hand can be so acurate to do it with a brush, i'll just spray it like the rest. :)
 

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Sven

Sven said:
good idea, i'll try that, thanks! btw.. i'll add the thin stripes on the side, but i don't think my hand can be so acurate to do it with a brush, i'll just spray it like the rest. :)
Sven- Croatia/US communication barrier -or- humor? :confused: I don't want to misinform you! So, I clarify that a pinstripe brush is a special brush... and using one is a special skill (a skill I'm not good at and pay someone else to do). If you spray the "thin" stripe to float over the edge of your new wide stripe, then you'll ALSO be wet sanding edges of those mask lines! Good quality, thin masking tape will leave a very nice/straight edge when removed... and additional painting of any kind may not be required. -Dan
 
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