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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi there I’m new to this forum so go easy on me haha.
1970 GT 4spd
Anyways I’ve had my Opel for one year and have had a few issues that I’ve had to work out so that I can finally start driving it! I put a new transmission in and did quite a bit of rust repair to the floors.
When I bought the car the previous owner said the engine was rebuild in the 90s and the car has basically sat since then. When I picked it up it started ran and drove really well. Now after spending a year getting it roadworthy, I went to crank the engine and it did for a few seconds and then I completely lost power. Now the engine will not crank, every once in awhile I can get the starter to click but most of the time it does not. I don’t think the starter is the issue because I checked for power at the fuse block and it seems like I’m losing power everywhere, but only when the key is in run. When I take the key out I get power back to the fuseblock. I’ve checked the ignition switch and that tested out okay, I’m thinking a ground issue but I’m just not sure
 

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1970 Opel Gt - Purchased July 1972 - Chartreuse - restored - 3000 miles as of 02-16, 2021 -
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A lot of us have had similar problems - the advice given to me was to start at the battery and work back from there. As it turnout for me really good advice because the wire to the clamp at the end of the positive connection was in really bad shape and after cleaning the wire, cutting off about a half inch and reconnecting the clamp and cleaning both battery terminals really well, bingo it started. By the way I was reading over 12 volts at the battery, at the starter and at the fuse box so go figure, but it worked. decades of sitting can do strange things to a car.

Welcome aboard and good luck with you Opel.
 

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I’d start by jumping it out at the starter. If it cranks then it is likely between the ignition switch and the starter. Check and clean all your grounds, they commonly cause problems. Just because they look clean doesn’t mean there is no corrosion between connector and chassis/body.
 

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Which Opel do you have? GT .... Manta .....or?
 

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Location?

Your problem is at the battery cable. Either the post to terminal (Most likely) or body ground/engine ground. Could also be a corroded cable.
 

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Have you tried "jumpering" the solenoid? Simply connect (either with a clamp on cranking switch or a screwdriver) between the large post (where the battery cable connects) on the solenoid to the small outboard terminal. That bypasses the ignition switch contacts, which are a very common source of "no crank" on these old Opels.
 
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Even though you say you have checked the ignition switch it still sounds to me like that is the problem, or it could possibly be the fuse box connectors.
 

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Not an opel but just recently my primary service van was doing something similar. put the key in and every things fine turn the key and complete shut down absolutely nothing turn it off, pull the key reinsert try again and same thing. I found my battery terminal some how stripped and wallard out.
I got a new battery and terminal cleaned everything well put it back together and everything was fine
3 weeks later my fuel pump took a crap and left my son and I stranded with our lunch in a parking lot 20 miles from home with 25 gallons of fresh fuel.
The only positive was the stealership was a mile away and my comm auto insurance covered the tow to a $ 1700.00 repair YIPPIE
 

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Location?

Your problem is at the battery cable. Either the post to terminal (Most likely) or body ground/engine ground. Could also be a corroded cable.
Those insulated battery cables can be tricky. I was having an intermittent starting problem with my gen2 Subaru Outback (affectionally known as the OutHouse :p ) I thought the battery cables looked OK but I was surprised when I peeled back the insulation. They were more copper oxide than copper metal.
436325
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Those insulated battery cables can be tricky. I was having an intermittent starting problem with my gen2 Subaru Outback (affectionally known as the OutHouse :p ) I thought the battery cables looked OK but I was surprised when I peeled back the insulation. They were more copper oxide than copper metal.
View attachment 436325 View attachment 436326
Yup, exactly.

There is enough evidence in his OP to determine that it's the cable somewhere. That's why I ask for a location.
It's almost impossible to diagnose a problem with pinpoint accuracy over the internet.
On Opels, it's easy enough to walk up to one, wiggle a few wires and know exactly what's up.
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Even though you say you have checked the ignition switch it still sounds to me like that is the problem, or it could possibly be the fuse box connectors.
I resistance tested the switch via multimeter and regarded another post on this forum for advice, it checked out just fine but the previous owner installed a momentary button for cranking, I have not ripped up all of that wiring yet as I’m planning on doing the ignition relay mod, but even now I sometimes have power to the fuseblock and dash lighting, sometimes I don’t have any power at all. When I do have power, if I try cranking the car, the starter will click and then I lose power everywhere. I would think the ignition switch only feeds the starting components and the fuse block gets its power separately
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Yup, exactly.

There is enough evidence in his OP to determine that it's the cable somewhere. That's why I ask for a location.
It's almost impossible to diagnose a problem with pinpoint accuracy over the internet.
On Opels, it's easy enough to walk up to one, wiggle a few wires and know exactly what's up.
I apologize for sounding ignorant but are you asking for the location of the battery? It’s located in the factory spot up under the hood. The negative cable runs to the chassis in a spot about 8 inches away up in the front clip area. The positive cable I believe goes to the starter. I’m having a hard time remembering right now I’m at work haha.
 

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I apologize for sounding ignorant but are you asking for the location of the battery? It’s located in the factory spot up under the hood. The negative cable runs to the chassis in a spot about 8 inches away up in the front clip area. The positive cable I believe goes to the starter. I’m having a hard time remembering right now I’m at work haha.
Location meant "Where are you located?"
 
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