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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm new to this so please excuse my ignorance but...
I pick up two GT's. one running, one junk for parts. The running one has some electrical issues-headlights, brake lights- also the dash looks like a topographical map. Anyway I decide to proceed by working on both problems at once. I remove a good dash from the parts car-both are 71GT's by the way- and remove a junk dash from the running car. Now i can get to all the wiring and trace out the problems. Right??!! Now I have no power to anything except the solenoid. The ignition switch acts as if it's not there. Turning is does nothing. I can find no hot wires under the dash. I can short the solenoid with a screwdriver and get it to turn the motor, but beyond that I'm stuck! This has had some hack chopping and splicing wires before I got it so it doesn't follow the wiring diagram perfectly. Any ideas? I see posts about fusable links-Where are they? Could I have fried my ignition switch? The battery is new and I can jumper from the pos. terminal to lights etc and get power that way so my ground appears good.....

I'm just plain stuck!

Thanks for any help

Keith
 

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Start working your way from the battery into the car. Follow the wires from the battery to the starter and into the car until you lose power. The 4 center terminals on the fusebox would be a good place to start in the car once you get there (or trace them back to thru the firewall. One side should always be hot from the battery. That's what I would do first. Where are you located? Maybe someone nearby can help.


~kyle
 

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Kyle,

Along these lines, do you know anybody who is building wire harnesses for GT's?

Chris
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I'm in Erie Pa. I started tracing the wiring and keep running into places were the wires were spliced into. Also have ran into wire that lead to no where (not original).
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Kyle

Are those terminals you mentioned on the bottom of the fuse box to the right (as you sit in the drivers seat) Should all of those be hot with out the ignition on?

Keith
 

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echodiety said:
The ignition switch acts as if it's not there. Turning is does nothing.
One of the primary problems with the Opel ignition is that the contacts on the ignition switch burn out rather easily. Hot wire on a second switch and see it that helps. BTW- ignition switches for the Opels are getting harder and harder to find. If it is your problem, you might want to check around the list and see if any one has a spare to sell.
 

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echodiety said:
Kyle

Are those terminals you mentioned on the bottom of the fuse box to the right (as you sit in the drivers seat) Should all of those be hot with out the ignition on?

Keith
If you look under the dash at the fuse box...in the center of the fusebox (there are fuses to left and right) there are four heavy gauge wires with no fuse between them (it would be like 2 fuse locations) The side towards the firewall SHOULD be hot. Either way, you should have power on at least 2 of those 4 terminals. If you don't, you need to see where the power stops between the battery and fusebox. That should be your primary troubleshooting area. You can try continuity checks on known (meaning you know where the wire starts and stops.) wire lengths (Ohm checks with a multimeter) but be sure you have the battery UNHOOKED or you'll short everything together if you happen to find a hot spot. Or you can continue to look for a DC voltage. Find a refrence point so you know things are working. Start at the battery and make sure you have around 12 volts. Then slowly work your way back ensuring you have voltage. Logically speaking, you need to have power to the fuse box and steering collumn if you were expected to start it. So keep that in mind as you trace wires back. Us use the schematics as best you can. I understand a PO may have messed things up. Just use the wiring diagram as a guide. You'll find it. The Opel electrics are pretty straight forward. (except when a PO tries to improve it... :( )

Someone asked about wiring harnesses. I'm sure a few USA Opel places have them like opelgtsource.com but I know opelgtparts.com have them also. They have online ordering too like OGTS, so you can order right on the net.

If you REALLY get stuck you can call me and I'll try to walk you thru some test points. I just need a set of schematics in front of me. 206-755-5884

~kyle
 

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ammeter

When you disconnected and removed the ammeter you may have rendered the electrical system inoperable. Try connecting the two heavy red wires from/to the ammeter together and giving it a shot.


You might also want to download and print the electrical schematics for your car from the photo gallery section of this site. Sometimes a picture really is worth a thousand words....
 

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I agree, the ammeter needs to be in the circuit. I know that when I tackled this same job, nothing worked with the instrument panel out.
I'd suggest you test the panel wiring and make sure everything there is good. Repair any hack jobs, etc. I'd also recommend, since you have the panel out, change all the lights. 30+ year old bulbs just don't put out what they did new. Made a big difference on mine (hey, I can read everything at night now!!!). For some reason, the bulb that illuminates the switches is almost always burned out. I owned 4 GTs before I even knew they were supposed to be lit. Also, if the ammeter idiot light burns out, the system will no longer charge the battery.
Anyway, once you've determined that the wiring in the panel is all good, fix that hack wiring you mentioned if its in the wiring harness (the closer you can get it back to the wiring diagram, the easier troubleshooting becomes), check that your fuse box is still in decent shape, and put the panel back in.
The car should then start, and you can concentrate on other wiring issues. Especially the headlight wiring. This is typically the in worst condition of all the wiring in the car, and can easily cause a fire.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I feel STUPID! Looking at the wiring diagram the only way the ignition can get juice is through the anmeter. I put it in and got juice! Now I can work fixing the wiring! Thanks to all who responded! All your advice has/will help this newbie immensely!

Keith
echodiety
 
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