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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have installed a replacement window regulator and the vertical frame and slide assembly that the window sits in with new cable on the passenger side. I replaced the regulator because the old one didn't crank right and the old slide mechanism nylon bushings were very worn.

The new slider bushings must have some wear too because the window still rotates a bit forward and backward. I have to tighten the cable a bit but I don't think that bit of slack is causing the noise probem. When I apply forward pressure on the cable (as if it had an idler or tensioner to take the slack out it is still noisy. When I crank the window up or down I can hear a rough grinding sort of a sound as if the cable strands are rubbing on something when the window is operated. They seem to be properly seated in the grooves on the regulator drum. The window on the passenger side is silent when it is operated. I'd like that on the drivers side too.

The top pulley in the door has just a threaded rod sticking towards the inside of the car with no locking washer or nut. Are these normally a part of this pulley? If so do you know the size and thread?

I think that someone has recently said that there is some adjustment available at the top pulley for cable tension, is this true?

As it is the pulley with no nut to secure it in place (if that's needed, the repair manual doesn't mention any details) the hole the "axle" goes through seems to have elongated the hole that positions it and that pulley could be turning sideways a bit when under tension and that could be causing at least some of the noise.

What are the other likely sources for a noisy window cranking mechanism? I've tried some WD-40 but that hasn't helped much.

Are new nylon bushings avalable that would help the window stop moving a bit forward and backward as it is cranked?

What is usually used to keep that track smooth with low friction?
 

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If the window makes noise, especially a grinding noise, while being rolled up or down, then there is something wrong. Although lubrication is good for these mechanisms it’s best to fix the problem rather than silence it with WD40.

As regards the glass tilting, remove the inside panel and adjust that long sheet metal brace located at the top. Just by sliding it forward or backward I’ve found it stabilizes the glass horizontally.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the suggestion. I really want to get this fixed. It's the mechanism and cable that's making the noise not the window itself.

I'm really wondering if some or most of it could be from that top "pulley" wich seems to be loosely secured in place. It can wobble a bit when under load. Is a nut supposed to be there to help keep it aligned? I haven't been able to locate the noise by listening yet. I've just assumed that this has happened to other people and that they knew what caused it.

The interior panel is off until I get this fixed.

When looking down into the door, the reguator gear seems to be very close to the inside of the door but I don't think that's making the noise. It came with the car and I used it to replace the original one in the car because that one had a bad (worn, I guess) gear that wouldn't always be engaged by the pinion gear that you crank.

I know that the top sheet metal brace (painted black) does a lot to brace and stabilize the door for the forces involved in cranking the window. Without it, the inner door skin will warp a bit when you try to crank the window. That is in place. It seemed to only fasten one way...that's how the screw holes lined up. One or two of the screw holes might not be aligned well...for the front and back screws. One of the screws might just be missing, I'll look into that. This brace and it's alignment on the door could be a factor.

When the window is lowered you can actually wobble the window and it's carrier (that has the nylon guides or bushings?) which rides up and down on the vertical track). I think this must be from wear on the nylon guides and so probably not from the adjustment of the top reinforcing strip. I haven't replaced the round white shims where the window is lightly bolted to the carrier yet. I don't think that's the problem, the window doesn't wobble in the carrier but the whole window/carrier system can be wobbled a bit forward and backward on the vertical track.
 

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I had the same problem . It was the window touching the vertical track when operated. It is possible to adjust it at the top.
Best wishes Leo
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Leo:

Do you mean adjust that black reinforcement strip at the top of the door? The window itself rides in the felt lined track at it's ends so it's kept where it should be. I'll go out and take a look at it. Approx. what adjustment did you do to fix it?

Thanks.
 

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The pulley has a nut and washer on the pulley axle stud. The hole that it bolts thru is slotted. That is your adjustment. Without the nut, you are likely grinding the edge of the pulley, as it's rotating. I believe the bottom pulley has the same adjustment.

Wes
 

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My passenger side window stopped operating altogether. I thought the cable had jumped tracks on the drum, but that didn’t effect the operation one way or the other.

Turns out it was the gearbox (window crank) that was the problem. It was dry and cruddy. I lubricated it generously with Marvel Oil. Then did the same for the upper & lower pullys. I also loosened that adjustment nut at the top pulley just a little as the pulley was binding and wouldn’t rotate.

Last, I slathered wheel bearing grease on the vertical surfaces that thing slides up and down on. “That thing” being the vertical brace the upper and lower pulleys are attached to.
It works very well, and silent.

Cost - $0.00
Time – 45 minutes
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
I let the thing sit overnight after spraying some WD40 on the drum and the vertical slide surface and onto the plastic guides. The next morning I was surprised that it was a lot quieter. I searched around and found a nut that fits onto the upper pulley or sheave axle and that stabilized the pulley and reduced a lot of the noise.

I think I'll also use the grease that you suggest and with the inner door panel on it will be perfectly quiet. The drum and guide were dry before I used the WD40 and the drum looked like it could be a bit rough on the cable over time if it wasn't lubricated somehow. I think that an oil lubricant on the drum and cable would tend to work into the cable between the strands and help prolong it's life as the strands work against each other and the drum grooves. I will do some final adjustments to the cable tension on my new cables and I think that will finish things. I am a bit concerned about wear on the plastic guides but the window operation is fine. With some lithium grease or whatever is recommended I think that the operation would be very smooth and quiet. The steel tracks could get some surface rust too with humidity if you didn't put something on them. It probably also helps make up for any slop created by worn plastic guides. Lithium grease would protect best against water and humidity over time.
 

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Great thread.. I just put my doors together on my GT, and the windows are binding.

The cable seems tight and I lubed everything with dielectric grease. So its quiet.

The thing is when I get the window all the way up (after grabbing the glass so it will get parallel with the rubber) is that the front part of the window seems to bind at the top front.

Driver side does something similar but not as "tight" when you get to the top of the slider.

Will try adjusting the upper mount tracks and try to loosen the cable.

Any additional tips would be appreciated. Fun fun fun..

God the Manta is SO much easier..
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
What I did is run the window to the top so it seats in the channels the way it should, then slowly back it down till the carrier is exposed in the door then tighten the screws that hold the window in position on the carrier. This worked for me. You might need to make sure the big round disc nylon spasers or shims are in at the carrier. Mine are out but I might put them back in. That could tighten the windows position in the carrier. Mine does follow the track on the way up though. Also, it may not follow the track if you doun't have the black sheet metal reinforcement on at the top of the door panel. That gives the top of the door, at the window slot stuffness direction perpendicular to the vertical sides of the door while you are cranking. Otherwise the door will deflect laterally in that area and drag the window with it.
 

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I don't think it would work without the black frame. Not to mention wouldnt be able to get the door panel to stay on.

But I have everything in and lubed, all the pieces are there (Including new gasket/channel) and the glass is sitting nice and perfect in the holder (W/ the discs). It's definately in the adjustment somewhere. I either have the cable in the wrong spot, and/or the vertical brace is crooked.

I think I will loosen all the bolts, run the window up nice and tight in the channel and then slowly tighten things back and run the window up and down and try to adjust the problem out..
 
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