[gtzero]

SUCCESS! I've removed my first head. It was a blast. It took about 5 hours total with running to the hardware store a couple of times. My 2.4 doesn't have the 12mm serrated bolts. It uses 10mm hex bolts. And upon consulting with Roger Wilson on the best way to rotate the engine to #4 TDC, I got a "breaker bar" and a 19mm socket. I actually didn't use either to turn the engine. I just used a crescent wrench because that was the best tool to get between the fan and the crank pulley.

And why get all technical about #4 TDC? Why not just tell a first-timer to line up the recesses on the camshaft with the head bolts??? It sounded so intimidating.

Just kidding. I appreciate all the advice I've received here.

One "OOPS" in this process. I dropped one of the 3 8mm cam gear bolts. I can't see it from the top. Is it in the oil pan now? And if so, any caveats as to oil pan removal?

Thanks again to everyone,

Manny

 

[Gary]

One "OOPS" in this process. I dropped one of the 3 8mm cam gear bolts. I can't see it from the top. Is it in the oil pan now? And if so, any caveats as to oil pan removal?
Manny

Manny, Pick up one of those magnets with a telescoping handle, you may be able to retrieve it. Do not rotate the engine until you locate it.

 

[RallyBob]

My 2.4 doesn't have the 12mm serrated bolts. It uses 10mm hex bolts.

Manny, you need to replace these bolts then. Newer Opel engines use these throw-away type head bolts, they are designed to be torqued once and then replaced. However, the older 1.9 head bolts are a reusable higher-strength piece, and can be substituted. I've had issues re-using the newer bolts, they always end up stretching and then the head gasket will leak.

HTH,
Bob

 

[GTJIM (R.I.P.)]

Technical "Advance"

Yes, you do need to replace those late model head studs. Some techno-nerd "engineer" figured out that the engine production line could be run a wee bit faster by using head bolts that were tightened past their yeild point - once! Modern head bolts are basicaly destroyed by one usage. I guess a cost accountant had an input to - nice wee earner, selling new head bolts to everyone who does a head rebuild or valve grind ............ Bars**!ds

 

[gtzero]

Thanks again for your advice guys. I like the magnet approach versus removing the oil pan.

I just got back from dropping the head off with Roger Wilson. It seems that this head does not have hardened valve seats. I recall that when Gil built this engine, we had a lot of pinging problems. He and Roger both tried everything they could with the head. Trying to decrease compression by machining the head and removing hot spots. But I definitely remember having valve seats put in since this is the age of unleaded fuel.

Well, the current head is not the original head. I can't remember but I guess the solution to my pinging problem was another head. But why there are no valve seats is beyond me. Something that I'm going to have to talk to Gil about on Monday.

The reason for low compression in my #2 is a bent intake valve and a lot of carbon. So for now, I'm having Roger do a complete valve job on the existing head, including the valve seats.

As for why the lower radiator hose keeps blowing off, we don't know. There's nothing wrong with the head gasket or the head itself. Maybe I'll try 2 hose clamps.

As for replacing the 10mm head bolts, should I get them thru ARP? What are the specs? I can measure the length but what about the threads?

Does the same go for the 6mm bolts at the front of the engine?

Thanks,

Manny

 

[nobody]

As for the lost bolt, most of the time they end up following the chain down and end up around the bottom gear. Not that I've done this more than twice myself or anything.

 

[gtzero]

Manny, Pick up one of those magnets with a telescoping handle, you may be able to retrieve it. Do not rotate the engine until you locate it.

Thanks Gary. The bolt was retrieved in less than a second!

Manny