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OGTS Gas Vent Line Replacement Today. EEK!

938 Views 23 Replies 9 Participants Last post by  Knorm65
Hi, all.

I’ve read lots about replacing these lines and today is the day. My help will soon be here and I’ve got my replacement lines and Ts from OGTS.

It appears to me that the 2 T fittings are identical, though Gil’s instructions suggest that one should have a very small hole. Are these instructions dated, or has a mistake been made in my order?

Any help is appreciated. Thanks :)
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Hi, all.

I’ve read lots about replacing these lines and today is the day. My help will soon be here and I’ve got my replacement lines and Ts from OGTS.

It appears to me that the 2 T fittings are identical, though Gil’s instructions suggest that one should have a very small hole. Are these instructions dated, or has a mistake been made in my order?

Any help is appreciated. Thanks :)
My last two kits just had standard fittings. The tee with the small hole wasn't included. I've had no issues
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My last two kits just had standard fittings. The tee with the small hole wasn't included. I've had no issues
Thanks so much!
Yeah, it's supposed to be a thing. Notice the different marking on the right side of the lower T-fitting in this pic:

Rectangle Font Table Parallel Automotive exterior



I'll just start the conversation rolling with the GUESS that the small hole side is to restrict vapors exiting the tank during fill up and other times. Although, if you are using a carbon canister, I don't see how this is a big problem.

Like many modders, I don't use the carbon canister and vent my fumes to the atmosphere under the car or elsewhere. This will give my cars the fresh fuel smell sometimes, especially after filling up. I have tried various ways to reduce this by putting a carb jet or some other small hole restricter in the line.......with varying results. Too much restriction or linking all the hoses together with no venting will cause problems filling the tank. Linking them all together, plus a new gas cap gasket, will make the tank virtually vent free and this can cause a catastrophic vacuum to form inside the tank as the fuel is used up, resulting in the engine shutting down because the pump can't suck any more fuel out of the tank due to vacuum. This happened to me and I know another guy with a Manta and a very powerful fuel injection pump whose gas tank actually caved in due to no venting and a brand new cap gasket.

Coincidentally, I just did this job yesterday on my new car. I used 5/16" black rubber fuel hose approved for venting use and brass T-fittings. On my car I had to run a returnless fuel injection fuel pump vent hose back to the tank. This caused me to need to use THREE T-fittings. I drilled and ran the venting hose via a hole I drilled in the side of the rear tunnel next to the other hole I drilled to route the pump's vent line, plus grommets. For now I have a small hole restrictor stuffed in the end of the hose, I'm considering putting a very small fuel filter there instead.

Like I said, I'm a modder, so don't take anything I have said as the gospel of the right way to do things.
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The small hole is to keep too much liquid fuel from entering the lines.
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I replaced mine last year with the same kit. My "T's" were also identical without a small hole.
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Yeah, it's supposed to be a thing. Notice the different marking on the right side of the lower T-fitting in this pic:

View attachment 457316


I'll just start the conversation rolling with the GUESS that the small hole side is to restrict vapors exiting the tank during fill up and other times. Although, if you are using a carbon canister, I don't see how this is a big problem.

Like many modders, I don't use the carbon canister and vent my fumes to the atmosphere under the car or elsewhere. This will give my cars the fresh fuel smell sometimes, especially after filling up. I have tried various ways to reduce this by putting a carb jet or some other small hole restricter in the line.......with varying results. Too much restriction or linking all the hoses together with no venting will cause problems filling the tank. Linking them all together, plus a new gas cap gasket, will make the tank virtually vent free and this can cause a catastrophic vacuum to form inside the tank as the fuel is used up, resulting in the engine shutting down because the pump can't suck any more fuel out of the tank due to vacuum. This happened to me and I know another guy with a Manta and a very powerful fuel injection pump whose gas tank actually caved in due to no venting and a brand new cap gasket.

Coincidentally, I just did this job yesterday on my new car. I used 5/16" black rubber fuel hose approved for venting use and brass T-fittings. On my car I had to run a returnless fuel injection fuel pump vent hose back to the tank. This caused me to need to use THREE T-fittings. I drilled and ran the venting hose via a hole I drilled in the side of the rear tunnel next to the other hole I drilled to route the pump's vent line, plus grommets. For now I have a small hole restrictor stuffed in the end of the hose, I'm considering putting a very small fuel filter there instead.

Like I said, I'm a modder, so don't take anything I have said as the gospel of the right way to do things.
Upon inspection, there are no vapour lines visible. He’s capped where they should be. I called him and he kinda remembers doing so. Lol. I’ll stick with the fresh fuel smell, rather than mess with a car that is running beautifully.
Instead, we removed the ugly hitch that used to pull his tear-drop trailer. One win for today.

Thanks for your help.
Upon inspection, there are no vapour lines visible. He’s capped where they should be. I called him and he kinda remembers doing so. Lol. I’ll stick with the fresh fuel smell, rather than mess with a car that is running beautifully.
Instead, we removed the ugly hitch that used to pull his tear-drop trailer. One win for today.

Thanks for your help.
Installing the vent lines will not make your car run worse. I highly recommend you install the vent lines.

The fuel tank is enclosed inside the car with no ventilation nearby and multiple ignition sources from the taillights and blinkers. Also an unventilated tank will sometimes implode or pressurize itself enough to cause leaks.
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Installing the vent lines will not make your car run worse. I highly recommend you install the vent lines.

The fuel tank is enclosed inside the car with no ventilation nearby and multiple ignition sources from the taillights and blinkers. Also an unventilated tank will sometimes implode or pressurize itself enough to cause leaks.
I second this. The fumes, under some conditions, can make you quite sick.
The reason a car might run worse with the vent line is if it's ran to the charcoal canister and the vacuum port on the canister is hooked up to the wrong spot at the intake.
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Upon inspection, there are no vapour lines visible. He’s capped where they should be. I called him and he kinda remembers doing so. Lol. I’ll stick with the fresh fuel smell, rather than mess with a car that is running beautifully.
Instead, we removed the ugly hitch that used to pull his tear-drop trailer. One win for today.

Thanks for your help.
Unless the gas cap gasket is damaged or missing, or unless there is a vent connection still un-capped on the fuel tank (which I suspect is the case, and my vote is the front passenger side nipple as one isn't readily accessed), then the fuel tank would be pulled into a vacuum, as Gordo (Scifi guy) mentioned, when gas is removed from the tank.

Is the original black nylon vent line still in place under the car? If not, then connecting the tank to properly vent is somewhat problematic at best.

Is there a charcoal canister at the front? If not, I suggest the very least you do is connect the vent hose kit up (including the aforementioned front PS connection)
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Unless the gas cap gasket is damaged or missing, or unless there is a vent connection still un-capped on the fuel tank (which I suspect is the case, and my vote is the front passenger side nipple as one isn't readily accessed), then the fuel tank would be pulled into a vacuum, as Gordo (Scifi guy) mentioned, when gas is removed from the tank.

Is the original black nylon vent line still in place under the car? If not, then connecting the tank to properly vent is somewhat problematic at best.

Is there a charcoal canister at the front? If not, I suggest the very least you do is connect the vent hose kit up (including the aforementioned front PS connection)
As an alternative you can just vent the vapor lines directly under the car which is what I do. The charcoal canister and line under the car was removed from my GT at the dealership the week the previous owner bought it when they installed AC.


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If I remember correctly the small/er hole isn't in the tee but rather in the tanks port instead
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As an alternative you can just vent the vapor lines directly under the car which is what I do. The charcoal canister and line under the car was removed from my GT at the dealership the week the previous owner bought it when they installed AC.


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My carbon cannister was missing so I just installed a roll over vent valve on the radiator cross bar. No fuel smell that I have noticed and no tank vacuum problems. I replaced all of the tank vent lines up to the plastic hose under the car then connected the plastic hose to the roll over valve. Good to go.
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If I remember correctly the small/er hole isn't in the tee but rather in the tanks port instead
It’s in the tee at least on 1970 models. I’m looking at one now.
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It’s in the tee at least on 1970 models. I’m looking at one now.
The small inner hole is in the top tee next to the fuel filler tube on (I think) 1970 and later GT's that had a charcoal canister.
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Installing the vent lines will not make your car run worse. I highly recommend you install the vent lines.

The fuel tank is enclosed inside the car with no ventilation nearby and multiple ignition sources from the taillights and blinkers. Also an unventilated tank will sometimes implode or pressurize itself enough to cause leaks.
Thank you
Installing the vent lines will not make your car run worse. I highly recommend you install the vent lines.

The fuel tank is enclosed inside the car with no ventilation nearby and multiple ignition sources from the taillights and blinkers. Also an unventilated tank will sometimes implode or pressurize itself enough to cause leaks.
Thanks for the safety advice. I’m thinking it’s ventilated via the port at the rear of the tank. To where, I’m not sure yet. I forgot to feel around back there before putting things back together. I have the kit. I have what I think is the charcoal cannister in the nose. I’ll get it done. The connection to the hose attached to the cannister is the tricky part.
I'm thinking of doing away with the vent tubes and just fit a vented cap?
Just don't replace the your old dried out cap gasket and voila! Vented cap!
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Here’s what I see under the hood and from rear driver’s side. The canister and black tubing but also clear tubing that’s been cut off at the rear as well as black.

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First picture:
What you are seeing there is your brake master cylinder and booster canister. Looks like the brake booster hose needs to be replaced. Do not use heater hose to replace it. It needs to be reinforced hose like vacuum hose.

If your charcoal canister still exists it will be down near the floor just forward of the master cylinder.

Picture 2:
The big cut clear hose is the drain for the fresh air vents in the car.
The black hose connected to the small clear plastic hose is your main fuel line. You do not appear to have a vent line that’s fine. You can just run your vent out the bottom like the big clear hose was done.

Also your Panhard bar is really messed up with that angled weld section. I recommend you replace that to restore proper geometry.
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