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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
When I took the old oil pan gasket off of my 1.9 it had gasket maker all over it, and also the real gasket was in the mix. Was the guy who had the car before me try using an already used gasket that was compressed. Or do opel oil pan gaskets not like to seal so it is nessicary to use the gasket and gasket maker? (seems like a pretty stupid design to have those funny half circle cut outs in the oil pan, the engineers must have been smoking some herbs at the time to come up with that one)
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
gasket

I just got the gasket and i was wondering which side of the rubber strips go into the engine block the groove side or the flat side.
 

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When installing a new oil pan gasket on the 1.9 where it meets the rubber gaskets that go in the timing case and the rear main bearing cap....should the overlap find the rubber gasket sitting on top of the cork pan gasket (that would be my guess after looking at it and trying to think like oil trying to find a way to leak out) or vise versa. Manual only states that there will be some overlap.:confused:
 

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I put the rubber pieces in the timing case and 5th bearing first and then raise the oil pan with the cork gasket on the long sides. I haven't had any oil leaks.

If this is a rebuilt engine, did they put small dabs of gasket sealer(RTV) at the edge of the 5th bearing cap(not where the actual bearing shell is) before torqueing the bearing cap? Search the site for instructions if this was not done or you will have an oil leak which will appear to be the rear main seal. If you are just replacing the oil pan gasket with no lower engine work, don't worry about it. I just don't want you to have to pull the pan again.

HTH

Jeff
 

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If this is a rebuilt engine, did they put small dabs of gasket sealer(RTV) at the edge of the 5th bearing cap(not where the actual bearing shell is) before torqueing the bearing cap? Search the site for instructions if this was not done or you will have an oil leak which will appear to be the rear main seal. If you are just replacing the oil pan gasket with no lower engine work, don't worry about it. I just don't want you to have to pull the pan again.

Jeff

I have found it easier to just eliminate the cork/rubber oil pan gasket by using "Right Stuff" gasket maker. It seals perfectly and no possibility for oil leaks.
 

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I did put the gasket sealer dabs on the rear face of the 5th bearing cap before torqueing it down, as I had read on the site. Funny how 40 years of street know how by Opelers have found ways to improve what the factory engineers overlooked at the offset. Engine is out of car and on a stand so I was going to use blue sealer on block surface, apply pan gasket, and another thin coat of ATV sealer, and then set oil pan on and torque to 5 lbs.
Is any sealer recommended under or on the rubber half circle gaskets front and rear on the pan?
 

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I used to use RTV Ultra Black or Grey, it's the same stuff auto manufactures use. Then I found out they use stuff like Right Stuff now, so I tried it. But both types will work.
 

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Is any sealer recommended under or on the rubber half circle gaskets front and rear on the pan?
I make sure the groove on the bearing caps and the seals are oil-free, then stick the rubber seals on with Ados F2 contact adhesive - they don't move about when the pan is fitted after that! Use Hylomar Blue on one side (block side) of the cork pan gaskets as it is non-hardening and seals for ever ..... "Good enough for Rolls Royce - Good enough for you!" Then a slight smear of wheel bearing grease on the pan side so the pan can move about as the bolts are done up - 5 lbs/ft sounds about right. A very light smear of RTV would work there too ... but I have seen too many horror stories with excess use of RTV on motors. Once the un-cured excess gets into oil pans and oil galleries the motor is toast.
 
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