Old Yeller
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Old Yeller is back from the paint shop, engine & Getrag installed, rebuild front & rear suspension installed. Gas tank is back in and door gaps have been set.
Next step is to get the electric fuel pump, pressure regulator, fuel lines and alternator installed.
Hope to fire up the engine soon.
Next step is to get the electric fuel pump, pressure regulator, fuel lines and alternator installed.
Hope to fire up the engine soon.
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1,226 Posts
The electric fuel pump is mounted and the dual DCOE carburetors are rebuilt & bolted to the intakes. I've run the new fuel line as far as the engine compartment but I'm not sure what the best route to the carbs is.
I'm hoping some of you guys have tackled this before.
Got any ideas?
I'm hoping some of you guys have tackled this before.
Got any ideas?
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1,752 Posts
Doug, here's PJ Romano's excellent 2.5 build. Link: http://www.opelgt.com/forums/member-projects/51082-2-5-street-motor-4.html Take note of the pictures and the fuel line routing.
I am under the impression these fuel pumps are "pushers" and should be mounted closer to the fuel tank outlet.....
Your car is looking magnificent. Going to be a terrific drive!
Mike
I am under the impression these fuel pumps are "pushers" and should be mounted closer to the fuel tank outlet.....
Your car is looking magnificent. Going to be a terrific drive!
Mike
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Thanks. Yes my pump is mounted under the floor just in front of the rear axle opening. It was the suggestion from Gil at OGTS to mount it in this location. He called it "on the left side of the car across from the location the front muffler". I haven't mounted the regulator yet. In the picture, it's sitting on top of the old air cleaner mount in the engine compartment.
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16,261 Posts
If you bought an electric fuel pump for an Opel from Gil, then you probably don't need a regulator.
Some guys go to all lengths to minimize the "boiling gas" problem that some people suffer from in GT's. This is mainly due to the intake and carb sitting all intertwined on top of the exhaust manifolds and the cramped conditions under the hood. I presume you have heat shields for the bottoms of your side drafts. As far as fuel line routing, some guys have run the fuel line all the way up front past the radiator, across, and back to the carb. Previously, I'd bolted a wire strap to the underside of the cowling over the engine to hold the fuel line as it arcs over the engine. This time around, on the GTX, I wrapped it in adhesive, silvery, insulation and use the oem clips on the firewall to hold it. The fuel line then runs straight from the passenger side fire wall to the side draft.
But I can't really say that I ever had a problem with vapor lock or similar problems that I could point to the fuel in the line getting hot as the problem. It's always boiled down to the proximity of the intake/exhaust and the fuel getting boiled out of the carb after shutdown as the culprit.
You have an electric fuel pump now, so now your car will be able to refill your carb's fuel bowls(if the fuel got boiled out of them) before you engage the starter. Just turn the key to run, your fuel pump will come on, wait 3-5 seconds(you'll probably hear the pitch of the fuel pump change), pump pedal 2-3 times, then engage the starter.
Some guys go to all lengths to minimize the "boiling gas" problem that some people suffer from in GT's. This is mainly due to the intake and carb sitting all intertwined on top of the exhaust manifolds and the cramped conditions under the hood. I presume you have heat shields for the bottoms of your side drafts. As far as fuel line routing, some guys have run the fuel line all the way up front past the radiator, across, and back to the carb. Previously, I'd bolted a wire strap to the underside of the cowling over the engine to hold the fuel line as it arcs over the engine. This time around, on the GTX, I wrapped it in adhesive, silvery, insulation and use the oem clips on the firewall to hold it. The fuel line then runs straight from the passenger side fire wall to the side draft.
But I can't really say that I ever had a problem with vapor lock or similar problems that I could point to the fuel in the line getting hot as the problem. It's always boiled down to the proximity of the intake/exhaust and the fuel getting boiled out of the carb after shutdown as the culprit.
You have an electric fuel pump now, so now your car will be able to refill your carb's fuel bowls(if the fuel got boiled out of them) before you engage the starter. Just turn the key to run, your fuel pump will come on, wait 3-5 seconds(you'll probably hear the pitch of the fuel pump change), pump pedal 2-3 times, then engage the starter.
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After waiting over a year from the time I finished the motor rebuild, I ran the motor on Christmas day. I was pleased that it started right up but I do have some idle issues. I will post those particulars on my motor rebuild thread. The next step is to install the headlights and then the brakes.
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I love it!
Carb vent into the blow-hole!
Carb vent into the blow-hole!
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Is that wrong? I was simply hooking up the rocker cover to carb the same way the old 32/36 was set up.
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Chuckle:
yep when I used the DGAS setup that is what I did.
Sidewinders are no different...or are they?
yep when I used the DGAS setup that is what I did.
Sidewinders are no different...or are they?
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1,226 Posts
So the restoration is going well. Headlight bucket installation went well. This week I had custom exhaust and a new headliner installed. The headliner was a challenge. The headliner kit I gave the upholstery guy turned out to be junk. The vinyl separated from the backing and I had to have a new one sent 2nd day UPS. The first one came with my first 70 GT and I've had it for over 10 years. I have no idea where the PO got it, but the new one from OGTS was of excellent quality.
Today I've been running down a couple of problems I found while putting the cars back together. The headlights won't come, and I've diagnosed a bad headlight relay. I have 12 volts coming from the battery and 12 volts from the bucket switch when I turn the key on, but nothing on the wire going to the dimmer relay.
I installed the steering column temporarily a few weeks ago so that I could move the car out of the garage and on to a trailer for the exhaust and headliner job. I noticed that the turning signal lever was wobbling around and I suspected that the turning signal ring was broken, but I wasn't prepared for what I found when I pulled the steering wheel.
The upper part of the steering column was full of shredded plastic. It feels like a very thin black plastic bag. Some pieces of it are several square inches in size.
I'm at a lost for why this was in the steering column. Anyone out there got any ideas.
Today I've been running down a couple of problems I found while putting the cars back together. The headlights won't come, and I've diagnosed a bad headlight relay. I have 12 volts coming from the battery and 12 volts from the bucket switch when I turn the key on, but nothing on the wire going to the dimmer relay.
I installed the steering column temporarily a few weeks ago so that I could move the car out of the garage and on to a trailer for the exhaust and headliner job. I noticed that the turning signal lever was wobbling around and I suspected that the turning signal ring was broken, but I wasn't prepared for what I found when I pulled the steering wheel.
The upper part of the steering column was full of shredded plastic. It feels like a very thin black plastic bag. Some pieces of it are several square inches in size.
I'm at a lost for why this was in the steering column. Anyone out there got any ideas.
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Sometimes when cars sit too long there are little creepy crawlers that get inside.
What you found is the result of a creepy crawler infestation.
A VERY rare little worm got inside your steering column. A cousin to the silkworm, you found the old dried up carcasses of the polypropylene worm.
What you found is the result of a creepy crawler infestation.
A VERY rare little worm got inside your steering column. A cousin to the silkworm, you found the old dried up carcasses of the polypropylene worm.
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2,497 Posts
My guess is that the po couldn't get the horn to stop, so they put a plastic bag over the contacts. Then drove the car, the steering wheel shredded it from the turns. :ugh:
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Cool hypothesis. I'll be disassembling the column later this week. If the horn wire is pulled out of the internal ring, you win the prize.
Can's remember what the prize was though.
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Turns out the damage to the steering column was caused by the guy who did the media blasting. He covered the steering column with a plastic bag that he pushed back into the gap between the steering wheel and column. When he removed the bag the portion inside the column stayed. As I moved it around during the restoration process, the bag shredded and did all the damage.
On a positive note, the column is back together and back in the car with the new steering wheel. The front of the car is complete except for the badging.
On a positive note, the column is back together and back in the car with the new steering wheel. The front of the car is complete except for the badging.
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Today I attempted to repair two cracks in my dash pad. I learned a few things and would do it different next time.
Not perfect, but hopefully they won't be quite as visible once I get the windshield back in.
Here are my before and after photos
Not perfect, but hopefully they won't be quite as visible once I get the windshield back in.
Here are my before and after photos
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