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Bikini Inspector
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Discussion Starter #81
Haha. Just realized this thread has come full circle. I started this thread long tine ago for a pulley. Need to treat my crank better it looks.

Brad, I refuse to take any more parts from you, besides there are tons of other members who should step up. Brads my only friend. Boohoo
 

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Über Genius
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8,924 Posts
Haha. Just realized this thread has come full circle. I started this thread long tine ago for a pulley. Need to treat my crank better it looks.

Brad, I refuse to take any more parts from you, besides there are tons of other members who should step up. Brads my only friend. Boohoo
Don't forget about your buddy "Toddy".
 

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Über Genius
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Opeler
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I am out in New Jersey for work this week, so u can't check right now, but I might have a pulley. But to be honest I don't know if I do or not. If I do, it's all yours bro. If not, I hope someone on here will step up. After you helped facilitate someone to help me out with a distributor, I will do my best to return the favor.

Best of luck in finding one and like I said, if I have one it's all yours!

Ferrell
 

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Über Genius
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~OFF TOPIC~

You know, that's one thing that always irked me. Why has nobody ever put out a front pulley upgrade? The stock pulley is such a weak piece of junk that it's sad.
Every Opel engine I've ever owned had a wobbly pulley. I used to hink I needed a new, straight, one but found a long time ago that they can just, EASILY, be bent back straight.

I wish there was an alternative.
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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14,278 Posts
~OFF TOPIC~

You know, that's one thing that always irked me. Why has nobody ever put out a front pulley upgrade? The stock pulley is such a weak piece of junk that it's sad.
Every Opel engine I've ever owned had a wobbly pulley. I used tot hink I needed a new, straight, one but found a long time ago that they can just, EASILY, be bent back straight.

I wish there was an alternative.

There is at least one pulley upgrade out there and probably others. In Europe, of course. PJRomano has TOOTHED pulleys on his GT. They use a toothed belt. You don't have to use the alt to tension the belt really at all. The teeth flat out will not let the belt slip. They're really expensive and require supplemental machining to work on a GT.

25-30 years ago, RallyBob used to sell undersized billet aluminum crankshaft pulleys. This post from PJ's "2.5 Street Motor" thread talks about it:

Years ago, RallyBob was selling smaller diameter crankshaft pulleys that slowed down the rpm's of the water pump. He said at the time that the stock Opel water pumps pushed the water through the engine too fast and didn't give the coolant enough time to soak up heat inside the engine. Much like the bow or pressure wave in the front of a plane, car, or water craft, air and water encountering an obstruction or flowing over a surface at high speeds will create a static barrier of air/water that doesn't move with the flow of the moving air/water. In the Opel engine's regard, that thin static barrier of coolant is where all the heat is that you want the coolant from the radiator to remove from the engine. My Ole Yeller car, that lasted for several 100K miles, had that smaller pulley and it made a noticable reduction in thermostat temperature. About 10-20 degrees of temperature reduction.
 

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1000 Post Club
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This thread has gone slightly off topic.

The question is, Do you still need one? I will check my inventory and get back tomorrow.

BTW, I use the cast iron double groove pulley from a Manta which had A/C on my GT. Straight and it is tough as nails. That is my alternative method.
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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14,278 Posts
I will GIVE you the 2.4 crankshaft pulley that came with my OGTS 2.4 engine. It’s two-piece solid steel, is all cleaned up and primed ready to be painted the copper color you painted your pulleys, and has the timing cog in case you want to go with Fuel Injection as a later mod. It’s 5 pound weight should also smooth out your 2.0 with combo cam’s running at idle.

No charge. Just send me some really, really, good sharp cheddar cheese. Free pack of smokes!





 

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Senior Contributor
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I yanked on my crank too hard and bent my pulley.

jk

I wasn't thinking and lowered my motor to ground right on pulley and bent it. doooh!

please help

Also is grinding the getrag bellhousing absolutely necessary with s-10 clutch? seems like no rub?? Ill go pull on the clutch arm and try again
Grinding was not necessary on mine either.
 

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Opel Key Master
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5,014 Posts
I am running a serpentine belt system, but others have made front pulleys out of aluminum...one note is you will want to use a Redi-sleeve if going with aluminum. I have about 3-4 different cast pulleys, and those are heavy, but always straight. I have several steel ones.
 

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Bikini Inspector
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5,771 Posts
Discussion Starter #99
I will GIVE you the 2.4 crankshaft pulley that came with my OGTS 2.4 engine. It’s two-piece solid steel, is all cleaned up and primed ready to be painted the copper color you painted your pulleys, and has the timing cog in case you want to go with Fuel Injection as a later mod. It’s 5 pound weight should also smooth out your 2.0 with combo cam’s running at idle.

No charge. Just send me some really, really, good sharp cheddar cheese. Free pack of smokes!






sounds like a deal to me. I was going to PM Jeff- (Thanks Jeff for the offer!!!) but i like the idea of heavier duty pulley, since I cant keep em straight haha. Unless someone has a Manta one for me.

Is gordons analogy correct about smoothin it out? My flywheel was ground down enough to get below the circle on it, there was no step. heavier pulley does kind of the opposite of a lightened flywheel correct? I really do not want a revvy difficult to drive rally car
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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14,278 Posts
Whether the 2.2/2.4 crank shaft pulley will or won't smooth out your idle is conjecture on my part. Apparently Opel decided it had no effect, since they use them on their normal/high speed 2.2 engines and their high low end torque low speed/normal 2.4 truck and large car engines. Normally, added weight to a rotating object helps it resist minor resistances and irregularities, like all the kicking and jumping that takes place on a cammed engine at low rpm idle.

As far as affecting your acceleration, the smaller the diameter of a rotating object, the easier it is for it to get up to speed and the less important it's weight is. I know this from bicycle racing: You want the tires, rims, and spokes of a wheel to be as light as possible, but the weight of the hub is inconsequential. The effective weight at the perimeter of a rotating object goes up dramatically as the diameter increases. And the speed at the outer perimeter goes up by a factor of 3.14(sound familiar?) as the diameter increases to maintain the same rpm. A 10" diameter bicycle wheel that has one pound of tire and rim requires less energy to get up to, say 100rpm, than a 27" diameter wheel with an identically weighted one pound tire and rim combo. It's all about leverage.
Your aluminum flywheel is at least 3-4 times larger than the pulley I'm sending you. Having that larger diameter flywheel made largely out of aluminum is why there is an acceleration benefit to having them.
 
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