[MICAH1]

After starting the car the trans will not accept any of the gear positions. Positions 1-4 will not move and if I engage reverse I get that sound when we forget the car is running and attempt to engage the engine again. However, when the car is off all gear positions are accepted. I saw a thread similar to my problem. Is it time for a new trans or is this a workable repair ?

 

[mr. bill]

I just went through the exact same problem.

Thanks for OGTS for providing several solutions.

My problem turned out to be 2 loose (upper) bolts that hold
the gear box to the bell housing. I also had 1 bolt which
had vibrated out. One bolt has been missing since I bought
the car several years ago.

Solution in my case is to use lock washers and/or lock tite
to keep bolts from vibrating out.


good luck.

 

[MICAH1]

Thanks Mr. Bill for your reply. I will check for missing or loose bolts tomorrow and also reference OGTS if your solution is not mind. Will keep up informed.......

 

[kwilford]

The problem probably isn't the transmission. The clutch is not properly disengaging, or at least the transmission input shaft is not being disconnected from the engine.

If you start the engine with the transmission in gear and the clutch pedal depressed, does the car lurch foreword? If it does, the clutch is REALLY not releasing. If the car will start in gear with the clutch depressed, but it just won't shift into gear after being in neutral, it may just be dragging. Let's start with the clutch not releasing.

First, check that the clutch cable retaining e-clip (in front of the firewall) is in place, and that the release fork is being pulled forward in the bell-housing when the pedal is depressed (that is, the cable is functioning)

If the cable is OK, it could be that the friction disk has become rusted to the flywheel/pressure plate (which often happens if the car has been sitting in a damp location for a time). Sometimes you can "break" it free (sometimes figuratively, sometimes literally) by jolting the drive-train with the clutch depressed. My favourite way? Have four of your strongest friends lift the rear end so that the wheels can spin, start the engine while in fourth gear, rev the engine a bit, depress the clutch, and (while pointing the car in a safe direction!) drop the rear wheels. Don't try this while pointing the car at your home!

Other reasons the clutch is not disengaging? The pilot bearing may be piled up (which can also cause the input shaft to drag), or the release forks on the pressure plate are worn away.

If it is just a "dragging" problem, it can be a blown disk (they separate if the rivets are worn through), the aforementioned pilot bearing is damaged, the driven disk is sticking to the transmission input shaft and not "centralizing" when it is released, or the clutch is simply out of adjustment. Read the following thread:

http://opelgt.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=924

HTH and let us know what you find.

 

[kwilford]

And ALSO check the transmission bolts! GOOD ANSWER! YIKES! If the bolts are loose or missing, the transmission drops down a bit and the driven plate won't release. But worse yet, the transmission will leak, and (speaking from a horrible experience), your transmission will grind itself up into little unrecognizable pieces!

 

[MICAH1]

Yes if OPEL is started in gear it will jump forward so I will proceed with the first three paragraphs from your first response, and then check those bolts. If that does not conclude the issue I will consider the remaining portion of your thread. Hey I just had a visual in my head of Four strong arms lifting the car with the wheels spinning and upon touchdown the car slamming into the...
funny then painfully sad.

 

[MICAH1]

Hey Kwilford, Sorry to take so long to reply to your last thread but guess what. we have lift off. I got back around to working on the GT and thought about the scenario you presented about the strong guys dropping the car in gear....... Didn't go that far but I did start the car in first a few times and it broke loose (friction disk possibly frozen to the flywheel/pressure plate). Thanks a bunch. You are "THE MAN" .

 

[PROPEL]

Similar problem with Getrag for the experts

I recently "finished" installing a 5-speed with new clutch, etc., and I'm having a similar problem. Here's the scenario:

• Car will not go into 1st, 2nd, 3rd or reverse with the engine running.
• Car will lurch forward from starter if started in these gears with the clutch pedal depressed
• Car can be started in 4th gear without lurching and will then drive poorly being in wrong gear for speed
• Car sat for a couple months with exposed pressure plate, clutch and newly resurfaced flywheel before I had time to bolt up transmission. So it might be a frozen clutch.
• Bolts are definitely tight
• Clutch cable is adjusted properly and moves fork forward when pedal is depressed.
• Clutch is installed correctly facing the right way (I have also installed 5-spds before).

The one thing is that the new rear transmission mount seems to jack the getrag high up in the tunnel, simultaneously tilting the engine downward. Before I remove the transmission again, could this be the real problem? It doesn't seem likely, but to test this theory, can I start the car up without the mount in place, or could this cause damage due to the driveline sagging out of alignment? TIA for any insights. No German Car Day for me this Sunday if I have to drop everything again.

 

[dallasmanta]

sounds like you answered your own question

All the the tale tell signs of a clutch plate that is rusted to the the Flywheel. Try to bump the clutch disk loose by having some one push or tow the car while you sit in the car with the clutch pushed in. Leave the engine off for this operation. If this does not work loosen the plate from the flywheel through the clutch fork window not in use and brake the disk loose. 5 speed has two of them.

As far as the tilt of the drive line you want to fix this so the drive line is not tilting the engine. Any tilt will increase the chance of the cooling fan getting too close to the radiator. Weak engine mounts can cause the engine to mover forward on hard braking and nick the radiator. Ron

 

[JimVonBaden]

I wouldn't start the car with the trans sagging too much. The fan could go into the radiator.

That said, the shifter linkage could be getting jammed up on the tunnel. You could remove the mount, but use a jack and block to hold it more level, insuring fan clearance, and see how it works. Worth a shot. Just don't forget and try to drive it.

Jim

 

[RallyBob]

A couple of more possibilities come to mind:

If you are using an S-10 clutch, it will NOT disengage with the standard 4.25" clutch arm adjustment...you need to use 4.75".

The pilot bearing may be seized.

 

[PROPEL]

Thanks for all the input. I am using a stock Opel clutch and components. I installed a new pilot bearing into the automatic crankshaft and lubed it afterwards. But it was a PITA to get that pilot bearing to seat flush. I had to use a block of wood and a big hammer. So I suppose it's possible that I deformed the pilot bearing... but then would the transmission shaft have even bolted up?

I'm going to try the rusted clutch trick tomorrow morning. Crankstart it into first, match revs into second, depress clutch, and then what? How fast do I need to be going, and is it necessary to slam the brakes with the clutch depressed?

 

[opelbits]

If I remember correctly (I say that because I was probably trying to forget the incident...), installing the friction disc backwards has similar consequences.

 

[PROPEL]

Wow, that was easy! By second gear, the rusted clutch broke loose, and it shifts fine now. So German Car Day looks like a go... woohoo!

 

[Gary]

Good news! I'll see you on Sunday!

(I'll look for the skid marks on Elmwood.)