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· Certified Opelholic
1,574 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hmmm that's a loaded question

depends on what race parts you are looking for

those pistons came from Gil at OGTS cost over $500

the ARP rod bolts came from Rally Bob cost over $80 (i think it was $73 but i say $80, i forget)

big problem is those pistons where the last ones Gil had
and the same could be said about the ARP Rod Bolts

every thing for the Opel is pretty much one offs
and custom jobs

i am only starting to learn how to get some off this stuff

What kind of race parts are you looking for?

a quick run down of the cost of my motor

Head $900
pistons $500
Rod bolts $80
Flywheel $700
rebuild stuff $300
Cam used $200
adj Cam gear $150 i think (forget that one)
driven disk $100
motor build up including custom oil pan

still need Flywheel Bolts (anyone have part numbers)
and press plate but i might just use the old one

the motor builder says 125Hp

Ha Ha Ha

AKA Homer Simpson

· Member
648 Posts
It all looks great. I'm currently getting all my parts together for a simlar build up. I'll be useing Venolia pistons, as I have 2 sets. I'm gonna just buy a done head from TGSI. I have finally found a local machine shop that I feel comfortable with for the bore and balance job.
Do you have any clue where I can find some good rod bolts? What mods did you make to the crank?

· Certified Opelholic
1,574 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The Rod bolts that would be RallyBob's department

from what i understand they (ARP) need like and order for $300 (or something like) to make another production run

so in other words ARP can do them (for a price) but i would want to double check all the specs first

on the crank the machinist did that crank

years ago RallyBob sent me a PIC of a Crank.
the crank had its throws cut down and the crank was very modified and lightened

So I am working on another crank. Basically i took the crank to a crank shop and had the throws cut down ($100) next i will hit it with a grinder myself (haven't done that yet)

then is back to the crank place for more work, then to the machinist for even more work then he will prob. send it out for the final balance then it will be ready
that's about the sequence

the crank in the PIC had to go back the crank shop 3 times

now for the stuff you did not ask for

1) do you need a lightened crank the machinist i went to said no
unless you are revving the motor to 9K prob. not

you could get a lot better street performance and spend less money buy getting a 2.4 from Gil at OGTS

there is a lot more but i don't want to make too long of a post


· Certified Opelholic
1,574 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Ha Ha I here you

this way can be fun

i just dug up the PIC RallyBob sent me, the weight of his crank was 30lbs

we could not get the crank down that low mine was 34lbs

also after talking to the Crank grinder and the Machinist
the weight of the Pistons, rods and stuff will offset the crank throws
so you have to watch out that after you spend time and money too lighten the crank you don't end up having to add weight back to the crank

Do you have an idea how much you pistons weigh?

also when i talked to the crank grinder i asked How would you go about lightening the crank (after i spent the $100)

he said the weight of the crank needs to be at the end of the counter weights like the cranks you see in circle track Mag

i will have to redo the suspension on my GT before the motor goes in but i hope to have the Car on a Dyno in a few months

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