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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have been working on putting my wiring from the battery to the ammeter back to "stock" according to the wiring schematics and have been having some interesting results. It all started with wanting to wire in a starter relay, and the research here on the forum brought me to some scary conclusion about how a PO had wired the car when they wired in a second "Universal" key switch. First scary discovery...the Red/White wire that is supposed to be wired together with the battery + connection on the starter was disconnected and taped over...just hanging there in the engine bay! I am really re-iterating what I have already posted, but not seeing in the news feed, and have not been getting any responses on...which is unusual for this forum. Here is a quick link to that set of posts to get you caught up to what I have done and what happened(posts 28 - 32):

ignition relay...connections

If you don't want to check the links, long and short of it, 12 volts to switch in the off position that drops to "Zero" when in the "On" or "Start" positions unless a jumper wire is attached to the B+ terminal on the alternator, back-feeding the fusebox.

This has led me to creating a "New" post to hopefully get this question answered about what happened after I completed the next step. I figured that I had to have a bad connection at the bus on the fuse box, so I got under there and checked all of those connections(both of the Red/White and the Red sides). They all seem good, clean and tight. Disconnected each separately, actually cleaned them and put back together. No change. Checked continuity across the terminal studs...now I have got something! "Zero" across the Red side terminals, but I have some resistance across the Red/White side. It read between .4 to 1.0 on the 2K setting. Out of curiosity, I connected both of the Red/White wires together on just one terminal stud on the fuse box, and once we connected the battery, turned the key and she started right up, and my Ammeter is working for the first time since I have owned this car!!

Here are the QUESTIONS: Why would I get enough resistance across these side by side terminals to kill 12V when I put they key into the "On" position that doesn't seem to be a problem now??
AND, what are the potential dangers of leaving it like this on the single terminal stud??
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Just for the record, I made a 10 g jumper wire to "bridge" the bus terminals, and put one of the Red/White wires on each stud like it is supposed to be. If there is a crack in the bus, it won't be creating heat with the jumper in place. On to other electrical troubleshooting. Ammeter, starter and ignition systems are all operating as they should. Gremlins moved to new locations.
 

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This link might be helpful. I didn’t read through everything you posted. You can upload a full color wiring diagram hopefully close enough to the year GT you’re working on. The majority of the wiring is the same on all GT’s this diagram covers most everything you would run across. Replacing headlight wiring and the ignition switch as you are in the middle of doing are the two culprits I have found to be problematic in my limited experience. Going through all of the wiring end to end is tedious but that’s what I do until I can isolate the problem. Perhaps if you posted some pictures it would be helpful? :- )
 

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Thank you for that link! I don't know how I didn't run across that diagram on one page in color!. I have been using a 2 page black and white pdf that was on this site for weeks now, and have read through LOTS of threads related to whichever component I was working on. The hard part isn't really what is there, it is figuring out what isn't supposed to be there that someone installed. I had quite a few factory wires that were disconnected with the ends taped up. I took care of the headlight wiring when I first got the car years ago.
 
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