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wiring
Just a quick double check, it is an alternator, not generator, right?
First step would be to run the car with the plug pulled on the regulator, just to make sure it doesn't charge. If it does, then bad alternator.
Second step would be to double chack the maximum output of the alternator and compare it to what you're getting. This is done by jumpering the D+ terminal on the alternator to the DF terminal, usually with a little jumper wire with 2 male 1/4" spade terminals jumpering the red wire to the black one on the regulator plug. It should peg to a voltage even higher than what you currently get, if not, probably bad alternator.
Last check, to isolate it down to pieces/parts, is to make 3, 8" jumper wires, 2 with a male spade on one end and a female 1/4" spade on the other, and the last with a female spade on one end and a big ring terminal on the other. Install the two matching jumpers betweern the DF and D- terminals on the regulator plug and their terminals on the regulator, the other jumper goes from the remaining terminal (D+) on the regulator to the big output terminal on the alternator. If in this configuration it all works as it should, then one of the field diodes is kaput, and the alternator will need to be repaired/overhauled/replaced.
Or, if you're just plain tired of all this, swap out the alternator with one of these: http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?mfrcode=ATR&mfrpartnumber=A134267&parttype=11&ptset=A
You'll have to swap out the pully with a v-belt one, but the chrome universal GM ones they sell at the parts store work fine. Most junkyards sell them for a lot, lot less, just ask for one for an '89 Cavalier 2.8 V-6. You'll get 100A of output and no modifications to the bracketry needed at all. The wiring is a bit different, but if you go that way I'll walk you through it. I also have several, and would be willing to swap the pulley and send it on to you for not a lot of $ either, just PM or e-mail me.
Just a quick double check, it is an alternator, not generator, right?
First step would be to run the car with the plug pulled on the regulator, just to make sure it doesn't charge. If it does, then bad alternator.
Second step would be to double chack the maximum output of the alternator and compare it to what you're getting. This is done by jumpering the D+ terminal on the alternator to the DF terminal, usually with a little jumper wire with 2 male 1/4" spade terminals jumpering the red wire to the black one on the regulator plug. It should peg to a voltage even higher than what you currently get, if not, probably bad alternator.
Last check, to isolate it down to pieces/parts, is to make 3, 8" jumper wires, 2 with a male spade on one end and a female 1/4" spade on the other, and the last with a female spade on one end and a big ring terminal on the other. Install the two matching jumpers betweern the DF and D- terminals on the regulator plug and their terminals on the regulator, the other jumper goes from the remaining terminal (D+) on the regulator to the big output terminal on the alternator. If in this configuration it all works as it should, then one of the field diodes is kaput, and the alternator will need to be repaired/overhauled/replaced.
Or, if you're just plain tired of all this, swap out the alternator with one of these: http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?mfrcode=ATR&mfrpartnumber=A134267&parttype=11&ptset=A
You'll have to swap out the pully with a v-belt one, but the chrome universal GM ones they sell at the parts store work fine. Most junkyards sell them for a lot, lot less, just ask for one for an '89 Cavalier 2.8 V-6. You'll get 100A of output and no modifications to the bracketry needed at all. The wiring is a bit different, but if you go that way I'll walk you through it. I also have several, and would be willing to swap the pulley and send it on to you for not a lot of $ either, just PM or e-mail me.
