Oh you will be glad that you got one of those radiators from OGTS. When I got my GT the radiator was the original and didn't appear to have any issues, but I just wanted to upgrade all the old parts with new.
been waiting almost if not a year for these to come back wooo hooo got mine ordered should be here some time next week . It's a shame I had to have mine made/ rebuilt after I got my gt I smashed it trying to get the oversexed battery out of the front and when I took in to have it fixed both my upper and lower tanks were bad. so Gil hooked me up with the tanks and I had the repair folks build me a new 3 row radiator core and added a drain cock. After redoing the entire cooling system it runs cool as a cucumber. But givin you can't just order a new radiator from the local parts store I had to have it not to mention how awesome it looks.Anyone know why the new one calls for 70/30 mix as apposed to the traditional 50/50 ? just curios.
too bad I couldn't wait for these to come back or we would still not be driving it total cost for the rebiuld of the radiator was pushing $565.00 OUCH but there were no other options at the time and we weren't waiting any longer than necessary to drive our gt so I guess it was worth it and now we have a back up in the event whether failure acrures or were blessed with another gt. Hoping it's the second option 😜 🤪
I will guess that the 70/30 mix is to put in more additives in the mix to neutralize the corrosion. AL radiators are far more subject to corrosion that the old brass ones. The reason is simple:
The radiator is connected to the iron block by an electrolyte (the coolant).... Yes, that IS indeed a battery LOL! So you have galvanic corrosion going one with one metal being sacrificial. With a brass rad, the iron in the block is sacrificial; that is why the old brass rads can last so long with crappy maintenance, and the inside of the block and head looked like hexx with rust. BUT, with an AL rad, the aluminum is sacrificial. Not good on the AL rad.
One thing that anyone using an aluminum rad should try do is to completely mount the AL rad in rubber with NO metal connections to the frame anywhere, not even through bolts. The reason is that holding the AL rad completely in rubber will break the battery circuit and slow down the galvanic corrosion. Next time you are under the hood of a modern car with an AL rad, look at how it is mounted. You will almost certaily find that it is completely rubber mounted. Or it will have plastic tanks to break the electrical circuit.
Otherwise, be sure to change you coolant every 2-3 years max with an AL rad with hard metal-to-metal connnections. The additives can get exhausted faster than with a brass rad. And consider using a longer life HOAT coolant, like Zerex G05. Dexcool (OAT coolant) is long life but has its own sludging issues with some older cooling systems.
1971 Ford GT
Henderson, KY · about a day ago ·
About This Vehicle
For Sale. 71’ Opel GT. 310 cu in Ford. Overdrive trans, 9” Ford with 3:89 gears, 4 link, coil overs on all four, disc brakes, 2x3 chassis, A/C, too much to list...
I've got a 1972 Opel GT stored in my brother in law's shed in Monroe Wisconsin. Its Orange, no significant body damage (or was repaired before I got it in 1986)
Its been stored there about 25 years, not running, had critters get in a tear up the inside so needs lots of work. BUT it was a...
It's neat to see what people are working on and what they hope to get done in the next 3 months. The Winter to-do thread worked well, let's do another.
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