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paint job

2040 Views 10 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  Old Hippie
I have my gt in the shop getting some new paint. I am going with a metallic DUPONT paint..... I am picking the paint up and paying for it....here is the list I was told to get by the body shop guy: 1 gallon cromabase color, 1 gallon Nason basemaker hightemp, 1 gallon Nason clearcoat hightemp, 1 quart nason act hightemp. My quesation is????? isn't this a SH__ load of paint for 1 opel GT??:confused: I have never painted a car myself...but a GT seems really small for ALL this paint! Help with some reassuarance if you can. Suppose to pick the paint up on Monday! Guy has another car in process and I just want to be sure I am not buying paint for someone elses ride....
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it really depends on if your painting the door jambs and engine compartment with the car. i did the door jambs, but not the engine compartment, but still did the back of the hood and it took about half to three quarter gallon to do my car with a HVLP gravity feed gun.
doing inside of doors, plus backside of hood. Inside of engine compartment down as far as possible without engine removal (for now). So you are saying this seems reasonable?
Extra Paint

Usually there are two or three coats of paint put on and several coats of clear on top so it takes more than you would think.

Just ask the painter to keep any left over for you to do any touch-ups that may be necessary. Most of us have managed to buff through a corner or two after painting a car or chip and edge or so:rolleyes:

Also there is usuall some bit somewhere that gets missed!

Then there are the stone chips and scratches ...........
you make me wanna wrap my GT in bubble wrap for protection!!:D Ok thanks! Says he only wants to put 2 coats of clear on it so that it does not "PEEL off". I thought 3 to 5 was good.....but I really don't have a lot of knowledge about painting cars.
I used a gallon and im about to order another! I just sprayed more yesterday and I ran out this just got twice as expensive because I need another gallon (single stage, no clear acrylic enamel), another quart of hardener and another gallon of reducer. so far its looking like crap I have orange peel, mooncraters, fisheyes and more particles, low coverage, and drips. though I did kind of rush into painting the second coat because my dad had the big forge going (1,000,000 BTU's and it heated the 3200 square foot shop from 35 degrees to to 61º in about 45 minutes. and if it wasnt for that I would have to wait for spring break and not be able to reassemble over winter break.


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I kind of screwed my self over because I did not have enough paint to cover the whole car and what wasnt painted got over spray and is very rough (the pictures make it look much better)


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thin spot, with drips around it because I tried to cover it. also I put 15 coats of paint on the hood and it hardly covered it was still transparent after 10 coats (they were all dont simotaneousily)
also, some parts have a nice shine and if I wet sand with 1000 grit then 1500 will I be able to get the shine back to it?


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It's best to pu a good mutilayer base paint down. Seals down, chips don't appear as much (small rocks will bounce more). Lots of clear coat gives the base a depth to it that really shows and adds to the beauty. Is he gonna add a tinted layer of clear? That is a nice trick, also.
not sure about the tinted base of clear. Will ask that tomorrow night.... how many coats os clear is really good without causing paint problems? Is 2 good?
That depends on the skill of the painter or the time he/she takes in the final product. If they've been doing it for awhile, he can tell you his personal thoughts on it. Alot also depends on the base color.
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