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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What have folks used for the panels for door cards and kick panels?

Chip board or panel board?

ABS plastic? How thick, 0.06" 0.09"?

Thanks
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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I use 3/16" or less regular ole wall paneling board on all my cars. They get exposed to water and there's a type made for bathrooms and basements that's water resistant.

Thickness + Upholstery is an issue in regards to the window crank handle. The splined spindle on the crank mechanism is so darn short that any handle you put on them will leave hardly any space between the handle and the inner door panel.

Use Goop to fasten upholstery where you roll it over the edges. Brush on contact cement is good for flat surfaces if you fell you need it.
 

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Daydreamer
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What have folks used for the panels for door cards and kick panels?

Chip board or panel board?

ABS plastic? How thick, 0.06" 0.09"?

Thanks
When I did mine way back in the day I used standard smooth brown panel board. I'm not sure as to what the thickness was, but Lowes currently shows it to be 0.115". Thinner would have been better though. I carpeted the doors in black automotive carpet, used the top padded vinyl piece and it turned out okay. Got a little hot riding with your arm against the carpet though, haha.
 

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Über Genius
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Go to a sign shop and ask for some "foam core"
 

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When I planned to do all the door panels, it was recommended that I use 1/8 inch marine plywood. Pretty water resistant and easy to cut out. After cutting them out, I cut the vinyl to fit on each door panel. Then along came OGTS with exact copies of the original original door panels and the the two panels below the rear windows. So I never got done with the one I was going to make, I guess that was the path of least resistance. I love the new panels, not that expensive, but well worth the money (no I don't work for OGTS)

Bob
 

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1970 Opel Gt - Purchased July 1972 - Chartreuse - restored - 3000 miles as of 02-16, 2021 -
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Gordon, I am getting ready to order the Felt Weather Strips for the windows/doors and have ordered the new chrome latch for the inside driver's side as it looks 50 years old, not much chrome left on that latch. So while I am in there replacing those two things I decided to replace the top portion of the vinyl covering and foam on the door panel, from the chrome strip up as it is pretty sun faded - however the rest of the panel is in pretty good shape and I want to retain the original look of the door panel. With that said you did one hell of a job with your gator retro fit - the whole thing appears to be very well done. Between your description of the process and a few others I think I can move forward with a high degree of confidence in getting it right. Had not planned on replacing the wonderfully water stained and warped door backing but after looking at your work seems like the way to go. I am considering using real leather for that part of the door, a leather arm rest sounds kind of inviting. Will see. I did recover my steering wheel in leather, back in the 90's and while I remember paying a decent price for that leather steering wheel cover, that I spent hours hand stitching in the living room while watching TV with the family it had blue color showing through which I recently dyed and it really looks great. The 70 GT as you know, had a steering wheel that was formed rubber with the typical finger grips - well that stuff just started to disintegrate over time and those steering wheels are not available so the black leather seems to make a nice looking good feeling replacement. I was getting ready to replace it when I thought DYE and glad I did as it turned out very well for a total investment of $10.00.
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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When you separate the door card from the metal you will find massive overkill staples that will be a mutha to get out. They apparently used those monstrously strong staples so that they could punch them straight through the sheet metal with a massively powerful stapler.

The bastards who designed the window crank regulators put a freakishly short splined shaft on them that won't clear anything thicker than the paper thin door cards with the vinyl on them. If you use paneling, like I do, you might have a binding problem and may have to cut a large circle for the window crank handle to recess into. Unless, of course, you go with electric windows. Then this problem goes away.

If you do replace the door card part, you're going to have to decide how you will attach it to the metal window sill part. There's no right or wrong way, it's your choice. Decades ago I used wire and threaded through paneling and the metal part every couple of inches. On my GTX I used 5-6 tiny screws and lock nuts. This was a bit of a PIA and the nuts made the panel stand off from the door by 1/8". On this new car I'm working on I will use wire again. The panel and metal part are under no stress once they are fasted to the door, so there's little chance of the two pieces separating. You could probably use good strong fishing line if you wanted to.
 
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