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Patrick
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861 Posts
Discussion Starter #263
Does anyone have a good picture of the framework for the spare tire area. I'm finally putting in the carpet and I can't remember how the framework goes in....
 

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Opelnut
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939 Posts
come looksie

u could come look at mine some time
:veryhappy
 
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Patrick
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861 Posts
Discussion Starter #266
Opelnut1 ... We should try to get a rocky mountain Opel car gathering here in the west.... R U up for it? I plan on bringing the GT to the Ranch in Loveland Colorado in September for the GoodGuys show however they will be mostly all American made Muscle cars... They might not get the GT attraction and that is OK.... Gotta love that car enthusiast crowd:)....
 

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Opelnut
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939 Posts
Would possibable attend, currently no running opels though.

Anytime you need to look at examples let me know
 

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Patrick
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861 Posts
Discussion Starter #268
Hood latch bar ?

I've decided to get the Hood Latch and it's brackets chromed. Is the hood latch bar aluminum or steel? I need to let the chrome know so he can give me a price.
 

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Opeler
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3,044 Posts
I've decided to get the Hood Latch and it's brackets chromed. Is the hood latch bar aluminum or steel? I need to let the chrome know so he can give me a price.
Hint, check with a magnet. Answer: steel.
Can also powder coat hood latch and brackets instead of chrome.
OPGTS has the pivot bushings for $16.00 pair, Part 2042.
 

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Patrick
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861 Posts
Discussion Starter #270

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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14,839 Posts
It could be that timing is a tad off. Try advancing or retarding the distributor a little each way and go for test drives. Beware that too far advanced makes the stumble go away, but then makes it hard to start.

Consider the probable fix: Trimming a loop or two off of the acceleration/power valve spring in the top of the carb's lid. It's been said that EVERY Opeler could benefit from weakening that spring. Webers are preset to have that valve open at a vacuum range that is very close to what a typical Opel engine runs at. This causes extra gas to be injected at idle, which you DON'T want.
 

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Super Moderator
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13,688 Posts
Consider the probable fix: Trimming a loop or two off of the acceleration/power valve spring in the top of the carb's lid. It's been said that EVERY Opeler could benefit from weakening that spring. Webers are preset to have that valve open at a vacuum range that is very close to what a typical Opel engine runs at. This causes extra gas to be injected at idle, which you DON'T want.
Ugh....this is how rumors get started.

You ONLY need this modification if you have a significant performance cam. Otherwise, put the thought out of your mind.
 

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Patrick
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861 Posts
Discussion Starter #274
OK Here is the spring backup.... Gordo where do I cut this once... maybe twice....
 

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Bikini Inspector
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5,771 Posts
take a side cutters and keep cutting a coil off until you reach desired result. in my case it was way more full coils then i thought it would be. what cam you have though?

use a mity vac
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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14,839 Posts
Cut the first full 360 degree loop off of the round end with the white washer. The first loop is flat and has no "rise" or lift to it, so this will have the least effect on the spring strength. Reassemble and test to see if the bog or stumble seems to have diminished. It would seem logical to me that if you notice an improvement, however slight, that you are on the right track and the power/acceleration valve may be the cause of your issue.

Then try cutting off 1/2 of a loop from the same end of the spring and repeat the above. If you continue to see improvement in regards to bog/stumble when going off idle, then it's decision time: Try for more improvement by snipping more half loops or let it be for a while, drive, and see how it goes. The latter would, of course, be the prudent approach.

I understand Bob's concerns and he's certainly a much more reliable authority than I am. He's also VERY concerned about giving people inaccurate advice. I'm not, 'cuz I'm a whackadoodle. :veryhappy

I just have my one experience with the Red Baron to go on. I had a Weber 38 with a slightly more aggressive than a Combo cam on a beat 2.0 with bad compression that I had to throw gas at to run reliably. I had to cut the flat loop, plus 2 whole additional loops, but I ended up with zero bog and could punch the pedal from it's 750rpm idle and spin tires in a heartbeat on a car with a squishy, gooey, automatic(Ha! Dan!). No reving required. My previous GT/Weber experience was with a new 2.0, a Combo, and a Weber 32/36. I never jetted it or did any alterations to it and I drove it for 200K miles and suffered the bog the whole time. It's now so ingrained in me to flutter the gas pedal when I go off idle, that I can't seem to break the habit when driving a GT. I'll probably end up doing the flutter when I get the side draft on the 2.4 working.

I'm sure you have a fresher engine, so I'm sure you'll need less "spring tuning" than I did.

:veryhappy
 

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Patrick
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861 Posts
Discussion Starter #277
Not sure about the cam.... Keith would have to answer that one. Here we go... Remember it's a backup.

take a side cutters and keep cutting a coil off until you reach desired result. in my case it was way more full coils then i thought it would be. what cam you have though?

use a mity vac
 

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Patrick
Joined
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861 Posts
Discussion Starter #279
BLITZ Stencil ?

Does anyone know where I can get a Blitz Stencil about 4 inches wide made?
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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14,839 Posts
Send me a PM with your real email address and I'll send you all of the blitz graphics I have. One is a bitmap that you can scale up or down to any size you want, print it, then cut it out as a stencil.
 
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