[Dino GT]

Just got a PerTronix 1847V model for my 1972 GT. Any quirks to be aware of when installing. I'm sure I've read in the past of issues with grounds or some complication. So i just thought I'd ask.
I also have the Flamethrower 3ohm coil.
Thanks.

 

[jrapose]

The major problem is that the unit will burn out if the key is left on without the motor running......not instant but mine burned out after about 45 minutes.....

 

[kwilford]

MODERATOR'S NOTE:

Moved to the relevant Forum

...where you will find what was once upon a time the most commonly discussed topic here. Otto Bartsch created this "stickie" thread way back in 2005, when a Pertronix was a unique concept:

12 Steps for Electronic Opel Ignition

Simplest installation of electronically triggered ignition in a GT is to purchase and use Pertronix/Hot-Spark trigger and stock coil. Here's how: 1. Remove cap, rotor, points and condenser with green wire from distributor and disconnect green "condenser/points" wire from coil. Leave everything...

www.opelgt.com

But in essence, the key items are:

1) Full (by pass the translucent Factory resister wire from the switched side of the fuse box) ~13.5 volt power supply to the red wire on the Pertronix

2) match the coil power supply to the coil and Pertronix models. The 1847V MUST have either a 3 ohm resistor coil (such as the appropriate FlameThrower) which is NOT the Factory Bosch coil (it is low resistance). If the stock coil is used, the Factory resistor wire or an aftermarket ballast resistor must still supply the coil. The 91847V (Pertronix II) and I believe the III prefers a non-resistor coil, and a FULL 13.5 volt supply to the coil. That provides the best peak spark voltage.

3) follow the instructions for mounting the Igniter. Watch that the trigger fully seats and doesn't prevent the rotor from also fully seating. I have had to slightly modify the inside of the trigger to get it to seat properly.

There might be a few other items, but those are what comes to mind.

 

[kwilford]

The major problem is that the unit will burn out if the key is left on without the motor running......not instant but mine burned out after about 45 minutes.....

Which is one of the reasons I prefer the Pertronix II, as it's much more robust.

 

[opelbits]

It's pretty easy. Make sure you have a good engine to frame ground strap (passenger side of car) and a good frame to battery ground. You could also run an additional engine to battery ground (not as heavy a cable as a battery cable), just to be sure.

Sparkplug threads should be clean as that is the first 'ground' your improved spark has to deal with.

The magnet rings can sometimes resist going on the distributor shaft. Be patient and gentle.

The magnets in the ring can sometimes be faulty or maybe missing. After installation, if you have a miss or an erratic spark, check everything, then check the ring. It relies on the magnetic field of those magnets. A missing or broken magnet will have a different field and may not trigger the Pertronix. Dropping the magnet ring could cause one to crack or fracture.
I don't know if the pick up cares about the polarity (N/S).

 

[ppallone]

Thank you all for the great information on the Pertronix II installation. I have one additional question. After running the new red 16 gauge wire from the #3 terminal on the fuse box to the Pertronix unit, does the existing transparent wire from the fuse box to the coil remain? Thanks. Phil ('71 Opel GT)

 

[kwilford]

Thank you all for the great information on the Pertronix II installation. I have one additional question. After running the new red 16 gauge wire from the #3 terminal on the fuse box to the Pertronix unit, does the existing transparent wire from the fuse box to the coil remain? Thanks. Phil ('71 Opel GT)

Sure, doesn't hurt to leave it in place, even leave it hooked up. Gives the option to install a set of points, should the Pertronix die. I keep a set of points in the back as insurance. Or sort of a talisman, to ward off the spirits of failed Ignitors!

 

[First opel 1981]

Don't hook the Pertronix red wire up to the wire on the positive side of the coil. Find a different keyed 12V source.
Check your distributor for a good ground. Make sure the advance plate still has the braided wire ground strap.

 

[First opel 1981]

Thank you all for the great information on the Pertronix II installation. I have one additional question. After running the new red 16 gauge wire from the #3 terminal on the fuse box to the Pertronix unit, does the existing transparent wire from the fuse box to the coil remain? Thanks. Phil ('71 Opel GT)

Absolutely. The clear wire is a resistor wire. Your engine won't run without it. And if you replace it with a regular wire (assuming you have a stock coil and it hasn't been replaced with a 3OHM coil) you will burn up your coil and the stupid car will leave you stranded on a first date with the prettiest girl (with loose morals) that you've ever dated.
Oh, that last part was just me, huh?

 

[kwilford]

Which Pertronix model and which coil have you installed?

In all cases, the Pertronix Ignitor red wire MUST be powered by a new non-resistored full 13.5 volts (NOT the factory resistor wire).

The 1847V is the Pertronix I (One). If you still have the stock low resistance coil and this Ignitor, the coil MUST be supplied with by the resistor wire (and a separate, minimum 16 AWG non-resistor wire to power the Ignitor). But if the coil is now a 3 ohm device, then both the coil and Ignitor MUST be supplied with a non-resistor wire. And leaving the original resistor wire in place and connected is fine.

If you have the 91847V, the Pertronix II (Two), then whichever coil you have (preferably a low resistance device), should be supplied with a new non-resistored wire. There is no reason to run separate wires for the coil and Pertronix. And the old resistor wire can be left connected, or disconnected, it doesn't matter.

 

[ppallone]

Sure, doesn't hurt to leave it in place, even leave it hooked up. Gives the option to install a set of points, should the Pertronix die. I keep a set of points in the back as insurance. Or sort of a talisman, to ward off the spirits of failed Ignitors!

Thanks Keith!

 

[ppallone]

Which Pertronix model and which coil have you installed?

In all cases, the Pertronix Ignitor red wire MUST be powered by a new non-resistored full 13.5 volts (NOT the factory resistor wire).

The 1847V is the Pertronix I (One). If you still have the stock low resistance coil and this Ignitor, the coil MUST be supplied with by the resistor wire (and a separate, minimum 16 AWG non-resistor wire to power the Ignitor). But if the coil is now a 3 ohm device, then both the coil and Ignitor MUST be supplied with a non-resistor wire. And leaving the original resistor wire in place and connected is fine.

If you have the 91847V, the Pertronix II (Two), then whichever coil you have (preferably a low resistance device), should be supplied with a new non-resistored wire. There is no reason to run separate wires for the coil and Pertronix. And the old resistor wire can be left connected, or disconnected, it doesn't matter.

I'm installing the 91847V Pertronix II unit, along with the Flamethrower 45011 0.6 ohm coil. So I can disconnect the clear wire (tape the end and leave it hanging should I ever want to reinstall the points), and connect both the red from the 91847V and the new red from the fuse box to the coil?

 

[First opel 1981]

The clear wire only matters for the coil. Points don't care.
If you put an original coil in then you'll need the clear wire.

 

[kwilford]

The clear wire only matters for the coil. Points don't care.
If you put an original coil in then you'll need the clear wire.

The clear resistor wire is for the points, and should be re-connected (and the full-voltage coil supply disconnected) if points are reinstalled.

The Opel Factory resistor wire reduces the voltage to the coil, but that wasn't to benefit the coil. It was to increase the life of the points, by reducing arc'ing when they opened. The same applied to cars with ballast resistors, which provide a similar reduction in voltage to the coil.

Both ballast resistor cars and these Opels have a bypass circuit to supply full voltage to the coil when cranking. Opels are via the inboard terminal on the solenoid. The combination of full voltage to the coil, and a low resistance coil, provides maximum peak spark voltage during cranking.

Pertronix mandates that their 1847V Ignitor be matched to either it's 3 ohm FlameThrower or similar coil, or to a low resistance coil supplied by a reduced voltage. There is no such requirement for the 91847 (Pertronix II) Ignitor.

 

[First opel 1981]

The clear resistor wire is for the points, and should be re-connected (and the full-voltage coil supply disconnected) if points are reinstalled.

The Opel Factory resistor wire reduces the voltage to the coil, but that wasn't to benefit the coil. It was to increase the life of the points, by reducing arc'ing when they opened. The same applied to cars with ballast resistors, which provide a similar reduction in voltage to the coil.

Both ballast resistor cars and these Opels have a bypass circuit to supply full voltage to the coil when cranking. Opels are via the inboard terminal on the solenoid. The combination of full voltage to the coil, and a low resistance coil, provides maximum peak spark voltage during cranking.

Pertronix mandates that their 1847V Ignitor be matched to either it's 3 ohm FlameThrower or similar coil, or to a low resistance coil supplied by a reduced voltage. There is no such requirement for the 91847 (Pertronix II) Ignitor.

So, on a 3omh coil, it will fire at the voltage through a resistor wire or ballast resistor?
My comment was referring to leaving a 3ohm coil in and then having reduced voltage to the coil when the resistor wire was connected.

I thought the condenser was to prevent arcing.

 

[Commodåren]

The reason for the resistor wire is the possibility to get a stronger spark for start up from the 9V coil by bypassing the resistor wire when the starter motor is engaged.

 

[kwilford]

So, on a 3omh coil, it will fire at the voltage through a resistor wire or ballast resistor?
My comment was referring to leaving a 3ohm coil in and then having reduced voltage to the coil when the resistor wire was connected.

I thought the condenser was to prevent arcing.

The condenser is intended to reduce point arc'ing, but the lower voltage supplied by the resistor wire is also meant to do so.

The stock Bosch "tan top" coil is low resistance (~1 ohm), not 3 ohm. I did not suggest supplying a 3 ohm coil with a resistor wire or ballast resistor. Exactly the opposite.

 

[RallyBob]

I like the Petronix 2, along with the .45 ohm Pertronix Flame Thrower HV coil (#60104).

For any engine with a hotter cam and/or higher compression ratio, the Digital HP will fire off anything.

Another consideration when running a low impedance coil is to scrap the ignition rotor with internal resistor (most Bosch rotors have them). The rotor will run cooler and you’ll get more spark energy to the plugs.

 

[ppallone]

I'm installing the 91847V Pertronix II unit, along with the Flamethrower 45011 0.6 ohm coil. So I can disconnect the clear wire (tape the end and leave it hanging should I ever want to reinstall the points), and connect both the red from the 91847V and the new red from the fuse box to the coil?

To clarify, I tried to edit the wiring diagram to make it clear (to myself especially) how this is wired it. Does anyone see any issues with this? Thanks! Phil

 

[kwilford]

To clarify, I tried to edit the wiring diagram to make it clear (to myself especially) how this is wired it. Does anyone see any issues with this? Thanks! Phil

Should be fine, based on you using the Pertronix Ignitor II (91847) and the FlameThrower 0.6 ohm coil. I usually connect the new coil/Pertronix supply wire to a single common female terminal as the resistor wire, simply to make it easily identified, or to one of the spare male spades on the switched side of the fusebox (which included the connection shown). Just know that those terminals on that side of the fusebox are NOT fused, except for the fusible link off the solenoid post.