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Opeler
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77 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello,
I have a normal running 72' stock gt with an apparently normal functioning ignition system. About a week ago i installed the Pertronix Ignitor according to instructions and it started perfectly, ran smooth, no problem. A week later (today) i noticed a little puttering from the exhaust when downshifting and then later it backfired twice and the tach went whacko! it seemed to die on me, the tach would go to zero but would not stall and when i accelerated the car would jerk forward. I am wondering whether the Pertronix is faulty? Bad Coil? I bought a new cap and rotor today and see what happens. Thanks for any insight or suggestions
Mauri
 

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Pathologic Opeler
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1,960 Posts
coil?

what coil are you using ?

A)stock
B)something else..if so tell us the ohm of the coil..

do a search on pertronix and check out Kwilford and jimsky...

they both have described the setup in detail....

:D
 

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Pathologic Opeler
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1,960 Posts
ps:

mine did that at one point...I think the problem was a poor 12v
power connection coming off the fuse box...these corroded fuse boxes,wires and connectors will cause what you describe(my opinion).

the best way to power your ignitor ...is get a 1)new coil 3 ohm flamethrower
2)new wire off clean terminals in the fuse box (off the fused side)..
...so you are fuse protected(I think most people use fuse #3,third from left.as you sit in the drivers seat..it is the same fuse that carries the original ballast wire ..unhook the clear cover ballast wire...if you switch to a 3 ohm coil..otherwise use what you got.

PS:wiggle the power wire to your coil..from the fuse box on one end to the coil on the other.recheck...clean ends and replace.

once I got good clean power to the coil..everything fell into place...

car now runs awesome

each part must be matched to the other..for example.if you use a
new coil wire,a o ohm coil(such as the bosch.or flamethrower non 3 ohm...you will burn out the ignitor..thats what i heard
 

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Opeler
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77 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Please kick me in the head

Thanks for the reply Bucky, i just read Kieth's thread on the subject and i just finished kicking myself in the head. I think i may have screwed things up. I installed the ignitor but i connected the ignitor red wire to the positive terminal on the coil together with the resistor wire and a black wire that i think goes to the starter. What i do not understand is where exactly do i run the direct wire from the fuse box? at the number three fuse? and this wire connects directly to the ignitor red wire? The Coil has no resistence (O ohms). Did i burn the ignitor or the Coil? To make things worse i cannot find the Pertronix instruction sheet.
Mauri
 

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Pathologic Opeler
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1,960 Posts
coil and ohm

since you have a o ohm coil you must use the clear ballast wire(original equipment) to power the coil..on my car this hadbeen
painted black

run a 14ga wire from the fusebox to the red of the ignitor.

I believe the set up below should help you and work for you..
the original instructions ..I scanned them..they are on this site..
do a search on Bucky pertronix and you will find them
 

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Pathologic Opeler
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1,960 Posts
here is instructions

pertronix instructions..
 

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Pathologic Opeler
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are you confused?

use your old ballast clear wire for coil(since you are using old coil)...run a direct wire from fuse box
to red ignitor(since ignitor needs full power)

I think this is correct..I am a newby

I found the petronix instructions not useful
 

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Opeler
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77 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
no luck

I reviewed everthing and made the corrections but it won't start. I ran a direct wire from the #3 fuse to the Ignitor red wire, and its getting 12V , i left the ballast wire on the coil. I put in a new rotor and cap and made sure the rotor was seated properly. I don't know what else to do. Do you think i damaged the Ignitor or the Coil from the previous way it was set up? Tomorrow i will reinstall the points and condensor to check, perhaps rule out a damaged coil?
Mauri
 

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Opeler
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77 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
ps

I dissasembled everything and realized that inside the distributer housing the Ignitor red wire was partially "cut" by the aluminum base and was making contact, perhaps this shorted everthing and damaged either the coil or the Ignitor. I had to special order the condensor, should have everything by tommorrow. Any comments or suggestions greatly appreciated.
Mauri
 

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Pathologic Opeler
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1,960 Posts
i dont know

mauri:working on the opel at 2:30 am?wow!I usually knock off at 1:30 or so...

I dont know enough to tell you how to trouble shoot..from where you are at now.Sounds like you need to check for spark along the way..
 

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Member
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I am jumping way late here, just reading some past Forums.

A major point I would like to comment on is that the Ballast, clear 3 Ohm wire is NOT fused. It LOOKS like it is attached to a fuse but that is the INPUT to fuse 3; not an output.

If you ground the clear wire with the key on it will heat up like a toaster; never being protected by a fuse.

The 3-fuse bus bar is the output of the ignition switch and the input to those three fuses.

The Ballast Wire is just "tied" to 12Volts there.

That's it.

JJ
 

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Registered
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6,344 Posts
To emphasize what J. J. just said, I smoked my fuse panel and had to replace the whole front part of the car's harness because that transparent wire shorted to ground inside the fuse panel. For some inane reason it was just left laying inside the fuse panel. Eventually vibration wore a hole in the insulation and I ended up with a mess that took the better part of a week to cure, after I found a donor harness. Care is needed in the tron box.

Ron
 

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Super Moderator
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5,298 Posts
Pertronix . . . ALL the coil hookups!!

Once and for all, Pertronix to coil hookups:

Pertronix RED (PR) wire -
Pertronix BLACK (PB) wire -

Stock or any "non-internal resistance" coil (Bosch "red" coil, etc.):

1. Leave stock + wires "as is" and connected to + side (15) of coil.
2. Connect (PB) wire and green tach wire to - side (1) of coil.
3. Run a red wire from the fuse box resistance wire connection and connect it to the (PR) wire.

ANY aftermarket "internal resistance" coil (Bosch "blue" coil, etc.):
1. Leave stock + wires disconnected from + side (15) of coil (no longer used).
2. Connect (PB) wire and green tach wire to - side (1) of coil.
3. Connect BOTH the (PR) wire and a red wire run from the fuse box resistance wire connection to the + side (15) of the coil.

Make sure to use plastic "feeler gauge" to properly "clearance" (.035" - .040") the center "pole piece" from the adjustable trigger amp in the distributor!!!

That's it!!! :D
 

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Member
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Unless......you are hooking it up to operate a MSD box...like me. Then, go to the Pertronix web site, they have a diagram....

James, the confuser
 

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What about the wire from the starter solenoid to the positive terminal of the coil, is it still necessary? What is it's function?:confused:
 

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Member
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It ramps up the coil voltage to a full 12V while cranking. (on the stock system). and then coil voltage goes down to roughly 6V. because it is a simple voltage divider circuit: 3 Ohm Coil; 3 Ohm ballast wire. If your running 12V at the coil (as I believe in a Red coil; it is a "wash" doesn't help; doesn't hurt) . Leave it there.

JJ
 

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70's Opeler, back 4 more!
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398 Posts
Mauri,

Did you ever get your problem resolved?

I have noticed the same thing on my GT and have not had the time to fix it.

I am running a Crane system. The timing seems way off. Backfires when it did last run. Tack shows 7000 rpm at idle.

Any help from you other guys as to what I should do would be appreciated.

I did completely disconnect the battery and checked all the fuses. It all looks fine. Just won't start at all now.

Thanks,
Chris
 

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Opeler
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77 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
No, i have not solved the problem. I went back to points/condensor because i am upgrading to a 2.4 with EFI and it will have a factory electronic ignition. I believe the problem was that i mounted the system incorrectly. The more and more everyone posts the "correct" way to mount it, the more confused i get. Sorry i could not help you.
Mauri
 

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70's Opeler, back 4 more!
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398 Posts
I've got a 2.0ltr with EFI and Electronic Ignition.

I drove my GT to an appointment and when I came out, it was messed up. Wouldn't start. When it did, it backfired, cut-out, ran terribly rough.

I was hoping you had been able to resolve your situation.
 
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